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MarkH

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MarkH last won the day on June 10 2016

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  1. Just to update this - a few years down the line. My 345ah@48V flooded lead acid bank has done the job for over 5 years now but a very busy recent work period and various other factors have contributed to some shoddy maintenance and FLA doesn't like that. They need tending and every bit of neglect takes it's toll. Anyway - the bank of twelve 115ah FLAs is now a bank of eight battered, prematurely aged sulphated hulks. I'm probably going with lithium - Pylontech. The price has come down, the warranties are long, they play well with Victron kit and will do what they're supposed to without me having to mess around with sulphuric acid once a month.
  2. Velfac (surprisingly, considering Velfac) provide a really very good guide to installing their windows. But when it comes to their external 'Ribo' door there is nothing. The usually helpful YouTube has a stack of videos on how to change the handle but none in door installation. It might be that this is just a basic building technique. If anyone could give me a quick walk through I'd be very grateful. I've got the frame in place and some long screws with plugs to go into the wall. I intended to remove the hinges and strike plates and drill through the frame there, so that the screw heads were hidden. Drill, wall plugs, frame back, screw, door on... Is that about right?
  3. No, the ridge beam appearing off center is an optical illusion - a few people have fallen for it in real life too. The beam is precisely in the center of the small section of roof and therefore the wall plate on both sides needs to come up the same amount. Padstones - because the walls are dense block on flat no padstone was specified. Purlins not-plumb - they're well oversized from spec so deflection shouldn't be an issue.
  4. They're screwed at the apex but I haven't cut off the surplus yet.
  5. It's the obvious solution, thanks. Didn't even enter my mind, I think I'd just mentally put blocking behind me... ah well. I bet the cement mixer won't start.
  6. I suppose I could. Honestly that didn't occur!
  7. Due to a slight screwup in the design stage the small part of my house requires that the rafters are joined to upstands in order that they tie in with the 40 degree main roof. If anyone could take a look at these photos and tell me if this is ok that'd be much appreciated. My intention beyone what is in the photo is to join each rafter with noggins just above the nail-plate. Incidentally the roof in this section is supported by a (substantial) ridgebeam allowing the rafters to join the wallplate with no collar, we asked for the beam to allow usable headroom in that part - it'll house boiler, sunamp and mvhr.
  8. Lap joints currently in construction. The purlins are joined at the trusses, both are notched for longitudinal restraint. 24 lap joints... I'm six in and already cut myself twice and dropped a beam on my toe.
  9. I used VHB tape to stick the curved Lexan portlights (windows) to our boat and much to the distress of some bolt-minded friends I did this without any other fastening method!!!! "Couldn't you just use a couple of machine screws?", I remember a worried friend, baffled by this fancy newfangled double-sided sticky-tape, asking. But I researched correct usage of VHB, read about some of the applications and became convinced it was a decent alternative to a ring of bolts that would, inevitably, eventually leak. @Calvinmiddle - I'm sure if you use a sufficient area of the correct tape to take the static load those cabinets won't go anywhere. Bear in mind though they might NEVER go anywhere... The key to using VHB tapes - as with all sticky stuff - is prep, 3M do products specifically designed to clean and then prime the surfaces to which you wish to stick things but isopropyl alchohol and a clean cloth should do it. Gratuitous Caribbean boat shot below, you can see the lexan panels (just) - still firmly on after 15000miles and a mid-Atlantic battering the likes of which your cabinets are fairly unlikely to experience unless you have a very serious plumbing failure. The boat's new owner recently replaced a scratched panel, removing the old one required an angle grinder...
  10. Could you post links to any interesting/good ones? Solutions to this I have devised are very Wallace and Grommet.
  11. I can't find a sensible place to ask this... What are 'B of Qs'? We're too busy working til September to make any progress on the house so have started to think about getting people in to stick the foam to the walls - we'd be good to go roof-wise come the autumn then. A local(ish) company has been recommended and when asked for a quote replied: "Please provide me with any drawings or B of Q’s that you might have"
  12. Thanks everyone. That seems to be the bottom line - that for now at least FLA is the way to go. If increased home storage happens - and it seems likely - maybe NiFe or flow batteries or something will become a consideration. It seems the wisest move is to hold off, wait and see. I'm not sure why I've lost two batteries in two years (with a single cell failure each time), maybe Crown batteries are prone to failure (supplier says not) or maybe my setup is lacking somewhere. Buying a new battery at £200+ every year is a nuisance though.
  13. I don't know what the extent of knowledge on here is for this sort of thing (probably deep and wide) but all opinions appreciated as always... We're properly off-grid as far as electricity goes. The quote for connection was well over £20k eight years ago, the nearest juice-poles are half a mile away and coming off the back of a few years living off all of the grids on a sailing boat it made sense for us to remain un-connected - we were familiar with the demands and had got used to a low-consumption boat-based existence. Our current P.V. array is only 1kW but together with a small wind turbine it easily keeps up with our demands living in a caravan. Once we're in the house the array will increase to 4kW and I don't anticipate problems with juice abundance. The fly in the ointment is the battery bank. We currently have a 345ah, 48V bank of flooded, deep-cycle lead-acid batteries made by Crown. Despite regular equalisation and diligent maintenance we've had two fail in two years necessitating a eight hour round trip for a replacement in the first instance and in the second recent case the purchase of a new battery - £170. I'm contemplating replacing the bank with something more robust, reliable and if possible lower maintenance. I've thought about AGM, about lithium and about NiFe... I'm wondering if anyone has any opinions or even better - real world experience - of living with a bank?
  14. We've homed in on something called 'tadelakt' as a possible finish, anyone heard of it?
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