Oz07

will be mono pitch spanning two brickwork walls. Will bargeboard be suitable at top end? (with roof sheets slightly proud of wall) then maybe line of silicone on underside at bottom to stop capillary. I'd prefer cement sheets so no condensation but can't seem to get at over 3m

Key thing is to keep the waste segregated. Use the grabs for your inert and hard-core.

Just googled it ideal sleep temp 16-18

My bad it is a gas ch house with thermostat. The stat is set to 16 but the heating does click this off so must be somewhere between 16-18? It's not as if visitors are upstairs where I dare say it's a touch warmer. Regardless it can't be above 16 when I jump out of bed in AM. Heating goes off at ten pm.

Is 20c really cold to get out of bed for you @jack?! I have my temp set around 16 and everyone who visits comments that it's toasty. What's going on?!

So if planning was submitted and approved before occupation, then plot was sold off after homeowner had moved it you reckon Hmrc would not be of the opinion that property was "developed" (by uplift in planning value) while not ppr. Just playing devils advocate

So if someone applies for planning for additional dwelling/dwellings in garden of their ppr what would be following scenarios Application submitted and approved, land then sold before occupation application submitted and approved before occupation. Land sold after occupation. Application submitted before occupation. Approval granted and plot/plots sold after occupation

Reviving this thread. Anyone have the kahunas to risk a box profile on a garage with 3" of fall over 3m?! Obviously against manufacturers recommendations but I've come across fibre cement roofing at similarly low pitches which hadn't leaked.

What's the issue here then that the gain was made when not his ppr in Hmrc view?

I doubt it because most mixes are factory produced. I had a look into it last night interesting topic. It seems to be manufactured mortars aren't meeting designed standards. Some suppliers replacing cement with ash (power station stuff) at a much higher rate than reccomended. I think everyone will be safe buying off builders who mix their own!

Or is it reaction to additives in readymix?

Wonder why this is so widespread. Perhaps it is the cement as said. I can get Quinn cement from a local merchants cheaper than anywhere else but don't touch it. May have used on the odd fence post but nothing critical. Can't remember seeing a BS mark on the bag. Sure it complies and I'm sure companies don't set up cement plants producing sub standard product but I'd rather stick with a better known brand. What a consumer I am!

I guess most modern roofing felts are vapour permeable? If marketed as breathable that is? Don't like the idea of a dpm/vcl over top of joists. Seems overkill and makes life more difficult. Is a u value of .25 really likely to pose a condensation risk with a mineral wool type insulation?

As per title I know i've seen this covered on here before. Whats the best way to detail the mineral wool between suspended timber floor joists. Looking to improve u value to .25. Can roofing felt be used, stapled between joists to form a sort of cradle flush with bottom of joists then insert mineral wool then re deck floor? This way bottom of joists still receiving ventilation.

Dunlop was recommended on the job im on. Has still cracked although only has wall paint on atm. Perhaps the oil based will fill these cracks and stay good?!

I've always found mortgaged buyers easier than cash. Especially FTB they are the best. The problem with cash cash buyers is what they spend on the sundries involved in the purchase is a small portion of their money so they never feel locked in. Meanwhile a thousand pounds could be a big chunk to a 10% depo buyer. As well as that the mortgage process seems to keep the conceyancing wheels well greased.

Looks great. Not sure about front door though!

Is there no national outline of what is notifiable work and what isn't?

Traditional construction with no special attention to detail i.e. Barriers or tape I reckon you will be hitting 3-5. Below 3 you're supposed to have forced ventilation? Keep in mind the passive lot here will have far better scores!

How do you know which works are notifiable with regards to building regs and keeping everything above board? Looking at a renovation where some works seem obvious to need sign off, others less so. Ie lifting timber suspended floors, insulating below knocking out solid, but non load bearing walls. Opening up load bearing walls with new lintels. Rewire etc I am thinking at the start of the project you just submit a building notice then just show them everything you're doing presumably can't go wrong then? Be keen to hear what others have done. @Onoff @Ferdinand

Pb will rely on a skimmer or filler doing a good job.

Wondered why I always end up with hardwood!

never seen anyone coat a wall plate joint with preservative, rarely see tantalised timber used either (trusses generally not preserved).

Can a 4"/5" hole go in an I joist if placed correctly?

Never knew that. As in if tennon is 12mm thick then mortise not to be 60mm deep or are you on about length of mortice?