dpmiller

So I finally have an instance of the heater coming on. Displayed external temp was <9C and the crank heater was noted to come on for a short time during startup and as the unit ramped to capacity. The chassis (anti-ice) heater was called for a while too *after* startup I can't be sure whether these events occurred purely at the 9C threshold or if coil or evap temp was relevant too so will continue to monitor. Certainly the unit didn't appear to be sitting with the crank heater on for hours on this occasion...

certainly you can, just don't point it at shiny things. A bit of duct tape or such stuck on as a target is all that is required.

what were you pointing the IR gun at? the shiny manifold would give false readings

what height is the waste pipe at within this 200mm void? We fitted a Zypho IZI and the unit is only about 90mm tall, plus it's adjustable feet.

it's not difficult to set the MVHR up to hold the house at slightly positive pressure which will deal with any possible leaks around the stove.

I fitted a Zypho unit under our most frequently-used shower back whenever they were a sensible price, although they're still not bad where I got ours... https://www.greentherm.ie/product/zyphoizi-shower-waste-water-heat-recovery-unit/

Used the rabbitgoo stuff on our ensuite which I oopsied with and didn't order as privacy. Got a pretty good pattern match to the glass elsewhere too.

@Conor was doing something similar IIRC?

have you easy digging to the depth required or will you hit bedrock? If that's a consideration look at one of the shallower units. We're very pleased with out Solido Smart as it went in easily and is very quiet.

will anyone be looking at the back wall tho? / what's the orientation on the site?

yep, looks like we're missing either a blending or bypass valve- unless there's a buffer tank?

how many zones and actuators, and is there a separate pump for the UFH?

yes, you need the flexis.

"we"?

still waiting for the weather to cool enough to see the crank or chassis heaters being called

you're not drinking water from your tank are you?

what was the failure mode tho- was it undertightened and the olive uncompressed, or overtightened and the olive ate through the pipe?

what's the item above and to the left of the pump? /if this is a split with inbuilt tank, and only heating flow and return coming from it, it would seem to me to be an internal fault as there is no external flow for DHW...

Any chance it's plumbed incorrectly? 45C could very well be the DHW blending valve's setpoint... Photos of the install would help, here.

Series works well here; if I was doing it again I'd do the whole circuit in 28mm as the 22mm is just a wee bit noisy and restrictive tho

@HughF Have you worked out what the PWM protocol is for the pump? Is it Grundfoss-specific? I've a series pump, but it's set to a fixed value to let the internal one handle the modulation. Even 8.5kW is very flow-hungry...

what is the deltaT across the tank coil when it first runs correctly, and then as the flow is reduced? Are there any other pumps in the circuit? Is this an inbuilt flow sensor, or an external flowsetter?

Picture is good if you click on it and open it... That's a capacitor.

Yes, the manufacturer is Sprsun

in which case it's under active control. I'll try to get a look at ours early in the morning if it's cold overnight and see if it's on, and if the run current is displayed. Certainly the PVE lubricant required for the panasonc compressor specced is less demanding of heat than earlier POE oils