dpmiller

what temperature is/ do you expect the floor to be at?

that's the length supplied. the drain pump is more worried about height than length tbh

if it's down the back of the machine, who cares?

don't cut it, and ignore the extra length. shove a bit down the pipe, use the supplied U-clip thingy to form the bend, done.

Most of these stats have a configurable hysteresis (on/ off) setting. It could well be set to 2 or 3 degrees from the factory... The manual should give you a menu list for these settings. The unit might be able to *measure* within 0.1c bit it can only display in 0.5c steps.

I don't think I'd be happy with an automotive relay switching 240v AC unless the contacts were documented for it. try https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/power-relays/2355560 or https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/power-relays/2452093

Yep Hetta stuff is just branded chinesium with a big premium. I've got their old wireless underfloor system, which is actually still available on Aliexpress as a BEOK. The 'stats are "ok" but it's not really perfect for an ASHP-based system as the boiler cycles-per-hour isn't configurable. Hetta didn't even have the courtesy to reply to a query I had...

sure it was the compressor was 100%? More likely the circulation pump, as the compressor maxes out at 78 or 80% IIRC The fan being at 100% probably means it was due a defrost, as the speed is pressure related. You'll see the EEV increase in steps too as it tries to compensate. We're doing pretty well here in our cold humid dip, ASHP consumption has maxed at 28kWh for a 24hr period, for all DHW and heating our 250-ish m2.

you can turn the knob and index round- note the setting, then remove the screw from the centre of the knob. It and the index ring should then pull off, so you can then reposition and re-assemble to suit.

do it anyway, just in case!

can't say for this particular Daikin, but our Cool Energy has three pump modes selectable in the menu- off, on continuously, and on when working. Obviously it's the latter that's required in most instances.

"does not allow" sorry, who paid for it?

do you think a uPVC frame is solid plastic?

pry door stop off a bit and try the credit card trick through the gap. Else you're breaking it out...

generally the handle lever alone doesn't come off, you need to take to rose on the door off to access the handle screws.

IIRC those webasto heaters throttle themselves depending on DeltaT (pump is pulsed) so unless you can keep it's intake air stone cold and the fan up full, it's never going to run at the max. They're great heaters, very clean burning.

Ignore your past dealings, go online with a made-up letterhead and start an account application. Some trades have no trade body or certification and so are impossible to validate so be a handyman, a self employed kitchen fitter, or somesuch.

but there were stereo VCRs already...

Stop difference allows the inverter to wind down more progressively, lessening the chance of / ignoring an overshoot (lack of buffer capacity eg) and reduces short-cycling in my experience.

there's a small amount of energy at higher temperature coming through the outside of the box. You can feel this, yes. But this is very different to the large volumes of warmed air coming out when the flap is open. Temperature is not the same as heat energy, as no doubt @SteamyTea will once again try to explain...

the whole point of night-storage is that energy is being absorbed rather than released during this time so no, the fan shouldn't be running. The unit is trying to gain *internal* temperature so regardless of the external body temperature it's attempting to limit energy losses so flaps should be closed and fan should be off.

12@ 270W in a SE/SW split. 3.24kW theoretical.

So what's it like then/ how much is it costing to run? Well, Jeremy's calculator gave a November space-heating requirement of between 1188 and 1417kWh. Conveniently, NIE swapped out our meter for a dual-rate one on 01/12 so I can confirm that our whole-house consumption was 537kWh for the month and almost half of this was at night rate. Solar self-consumption was 104kWh for the month on top of that. Of this, the chinesium energy meter that the ASHP is powered through says that the total consumption of the heatpump was 386kWh. That's space heating, DHW, crankcase heater, the lot. I'm able to get enough heat into the slab during the E7 period that the downstairs needs no additional input through the day and is sitting between 20 and 21c. The radiators upstairs call for a little while in the afternoons and evenings but all is comfortable. DHW will recover after a luxurious shower in under 30 mins and as long as the two showers are started a few mins apart, will keep the tank stable for both. I'm pretty pleased with that!

@ProDave so trailer/ horsebox/ commercial coachbuilders should have it or point you the right way. AKA Buffaloboard

yep, but which use channel 30...