dpmiller

oversizing the mounting holes on the bracket for the motor would be an option, and slather a load of grease on it, white "plastic" grease or PTFE bicycle grease (very similar)) would be my choice

looking at the wear, I've got to ask a. can you bring the worm down a bit for deeper engagement and b. what kind of grease are you using?

IR thermometers aren't dear. eg- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Infrared-Thermometer-Helect-Non-contact-Digital/dp/B071NBJJ2Q/ref=sr_1_28?crid=XIQA3RQD1FCO&keywords=ir+thermometer&qid=1671729727

Our el-cheapo mixers work perfectly well down to mid-40s.

sounds like you need to increase the flow in the main circuit, to send more heat energy to the mixer, then. Don't worry about calculated flows in the loops too much, the deltaT might be more telling. Does your particular mixer sense on the flow side, or the return? And are there any bypass settings? What mixer is it?

what does "saturating the pump" mean please?

worth having a flowsetter inline, just for visual confirmation. So restriction or airlock?

Walabot uses this kind of tech, an array of antennas

there's generally a stabilising period before they ramp up to full power, are you *sure*there's enough water and flow in the circuit? Can you read the signal from the flowmeter/ is there a visual flowsetter?

hospital or cinema, yep.

where does it say inverter?

I bought a Walabot on a whim a few years back and find it pretty good when I need it.

temperature is seperate to speed/ capacity. I can't see any info saying this is variable capacity.

I'm having a total failure in the "trying to confirm it's inverter" department. I think it's not.

how often will you actually have a full 3kW going spare?

Looking at the levels and the location of the drip, I'd say it was drainoff/ rodding point dooberry. Perhaps someone forgot to stick an O-ring on the cap... unscrew the cap and see what's behind, and either shove a suitable O-ring there or wrap the thread in tape. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!

It only needs to be warmer than ambient, to heat the air above.

what temperature is/ do you expect the floor to be at?

that's the length supplied. the drain pump is more worried about height than length tbh

if it's down the back of the machine, who cares?

don't cut it, and ignore the extra length. shove a bit down the pipe, use the supplied U-clip thingy to form the bend, done.

Most of these stats have a configurable hysteresis (on/ off) setting. It could well be set to 2 or 3 degrees from the factory... The manual should give you a menu list for these settings. The unit might be able to *measure* within 0.1c bit it can only display in 0.5c steps.

I don't think I'd be happy with an automotive relay switching 240v AC unless the contacts were documented for it. try https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/power-relays/2355560 or https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/power-relays/2452093

Yep Hetta stuff is just branded chinesium with a big premium. I've got their old wireless underfloor system, which is actually still available on Aliexpress as a BEOK. The 'stats are "ok" but it's not really perfect for an ASHP-based system as the boiler cycles-per-hour isn't configurable. Hetta didn't even have the courtesy to reply to a query I had...

sure it was the compressor was 100%? More likely the circulation pump, as the compressor maxes out at 78 or 80% IIRC The fan being at 100% probably means it was due a defrost, as the speed is pressure related. You'll see the EEV increase in steps too as it tries to compensate. We're doing pretty well here in our cold humid dip, ASHP consumption has maxed at 28kWh for a 24hr period, for all DHW and heating our 250-ish m2.