dpmiller

there's generally a stabilising period before they ramp up to full power, are you *sure*there's enough water and flow in the circuit? Can you read the signal from the flowmeter/ is there a visual flowsetter?

hospital or cinema, yep.

where does it say inverter?

I bought a Walabot on a whim a few years back and find it pretty good when I need it.

temperature is seperate to speed/ capacity. I can't see any info saying this is variable capacity.

I'm having a total failure in the "trying to confirm it's inverter" department. I think it's not.

how often will you actually have a full 3kW going spare?

Looking at the levels and the location of the drip, I'd say it was drainoff/ rodding point dooberry. Perhaps someone forgot to stick an O-ring on the cap... unscrew the cap and see what's behind, and either shove a suitable O-ring there or wrap the thread in tape. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!

It only needs to be warmer than ambient, to heat the air above.

what temperature is/ do you expect the floor to be at?

that's the length supplied. the drain pump is more worried about height than length tbh

if it's down the back of the machine, who cares?

don't cut it, and ignore the extra length. shove a bit down the pipe, use the supplied U-clip thingy to form the bend, done.

Most of these stats have a configurable hysteresis (on/ off) setting. It could well be set to 2 or 3 degrees from the factory... The manual should give you a menu list for these settings. The unit might be able to *measure* within 0.1c bit it can only display in 0.5c steps.

I don't think I'd be happy with an automotive relay switching 240v AC unless the contacts were documented for it. try https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/power-relays/2355560 or https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/power-relays/2452093

Yep Hetta stuff is just branded chinesium with a big premium. I've got their old wireless underfloor system, which is actually still available on Aliexpress as a BEOK. The 'stats are "ok" but it's not really perfect for an ASHP-based system as the boiler cycles-per-hour isn't configurable. Hetta didn't even have the courtesy to reply to a query I had...

sure it was the compressor was 100%? More likely the circulation pump, as the compressor maxes out at 78 or 80% IIRC The fan being at 100% probably means it was due a defrost, as the speed is pressure related. You'll see the EEV increase in steps too as it tries to compensate. We're doing pretty well here in our cold humid dip, ASHP consumption has maxed at 28kWh for a 24hr period, for all DHW and heating our 250-ish m2.

you can turn the knob and index round- note the setting, then remove the screw from the centre of the knob. It and the index ring should then pull off, so you can then reposition and re-assemble to suit.

do it anyway, just in case!

can't say for this particular Daikin, but our Cool Energy has three pump modes selectable in the menu- off, on continuously, and on when working. Obviously it's the latter that's required in most instances.

"does not allow" sorry, who paid for it?

do you think a uPVC frame is solid plastic?

pry door stop off a bit and try the credit card trick through the gap. Else you're breaking it out...

generally the handle lever alone doesn't come off, you need to take to rose on the door off to access the handle screws.

IIRC those webasto heaters throttle themselves depending on DeltaT (pump is pulsed) so unless you can keep it's intake air stone cold and the fan up full, it's never going to run at the max. They're great heaters, very clean burning.