dpmiller

IIRC those webasto heaters throttle themselves depending on DeltaT (pump is pulsed) so unless you can keep it's intake air stone cold and the fan up full, it's never going to run at the max. They're great heaters, very clean burning.

Ignore your past dealings, go online with a made-up letterhead and start an account application. Some trades have no trade body or certification and so are impossible to validate so be a handyman, a self employed kitchen fitter, or somesuch.

but there were stereo VCRs already...

Stop difference allows the inverter to wind down more progressively, lessening the chance of / ignoring an overshoot (lack of buffer capacity eg) and reduces short-cycling in my experience.

there's a small amount of energy at higher temperature coming through the outside of the box. You can feel this, yes. But this is very different to the large volumes of warmed air coming out when the flap is open. Temperature is not the same as heat energy, as no doubt @SteamyTea will once again try to explain...

the whole point of night-storage is that energy is being absorbed rather than released during this time so no, the fan shouldn't be running. The unit is trying to gain *internal* temperature so regardless of the external body temperature it's attempting to limit energy losses so flaps should be closed and fan should be off.

12@ 270W in a SE/SW split. 3.24kW theoretical.

So what's it like then/ how much is it costing to run? Well, Jeremy's calculator gave a November space-heating requirement of between 1188 and 1417kWh. Conveniently, NIE swapped out our meter for a dual-rate one on 01/12 so I can confirm that our whole-house consumption was 537kWh for the month and almost half of this was at night rate. Solar self-consumption was 104kWh for the month on top of that. Of this, the chinesium energy meter that the ASHP is powered through says that the total consumption of the heatpump was 386kWh. That's space heating, DHW, crankcase heater, the lot. I'm able to get enough heat into the slab during the E7 period that the downstairs needs no additional input through the day and is sitting between 20 and 21c. The radiators upstairs call for a little while in the afternoons and evenings but all is comfortable. DHW will recover after a luxurious shower in under 30 mins and as long as the two showers are started a few mins apart, will keep the tank stable for both. I'm pretty pleased with that!

@ProDave so trailer/ horsebox/ commercial coachbuilders should have it or point you the right way. AKA Buffaloboard

yep, but which use channel 30...

so are you Crystal Palace then?

I guess I don't understand why you haven't just done it yourself if you know all about how to do it?

@beebee you might have a chat with Shaun at www.irish-house-plans.ie. He's a bleedin good designer and might well be able to assist rationalising things a bit, not hard to pay either.

you'd need about 11cm *in front of* the retaining nut

Yep, we've three Yonos and they're *very* quiet. Standard length variant would be: https://www.bes.co.uk/wilo-yonos-pico-25-1-6-central-heating-pump-20460/

If the MCB (r/h trip) is going it implies a *real* fault. What rating is it and exactly what is on that circuit? Are the cable joints/ JBs between here and where the appliances are?

Bear in mind that the summer bypass is a thermal wax-stat which takes a number of minutes to change state and the stroke of the actuator is only a few mm. I'd opine that if you can "feel" cold air but the house is still 20 degrees-ish the airflow may be a bit high. What % is the airflow at? What size is the house? is the heater bank ONLY controlled by a manual switch?

I'm doing basically this in our thermalstore/ ASHP/ UFH + rads scheme; ALL heating flow passes through the TS bottom coil so the bottom of the tank is at least at low-temp rads temperature. I then bypass the heating loops to switch to DHW production when necessary.

and someone on the inside who has for the sake of argument collapsed against the door, can be accessed and assisted.

the socket is just clipped into the panel; remove the panel to see if you can unclip it and then probably enlarge the hole a little to let the socket come out through, then the plug and socket should be able to sit flat. Unless the socket is mounted on a pcb of course...

certainly for the GB to NI jaunt, many pallet companies don't have the ability to ship to an address that doesn't have an EORI number. The legislation OTOH allows for private individuals to receive goods *without* said number...

Are the flow and return from the heat source reversed?

if you've had a final inspection, what do you need BC for?

looks like they're maxed-out already. How much flow do you need? Can you turn the pump up or decrease a bypass?

you'll be pushing heated water out of the store when it expands tho?