dpmiller

@Adam2 so have you the probe in the buffer tank, and you're controlling the heat pump on it, and the UFH is completely separate? Are you using the time and temp scheduling, and what fan mode are you in? I'd tighten the temperature difference setting a little so there's less chance of the flow going cooler than optimal, and make sure there's a bit of overshoot (this is the area where there is most modulation- it ramps down approaching setpoint, and then ramps down further in an attempt to keep the unit on and running even tho you've achieved temperature...

@joth Yes we can set variable flow or return temps, schedule temperature changes by time, run WC, choose the DeltaT etc etc. That's why I queried whether the OP was in flow or return control and what the PWM pump was up to... the CE inverter pumps might be "cheaper" than the big brand stuff, but lack none of the functionality.

put a calibration offset on the stat so it reads a wee bit high might help or if it's happening in all the rooms, reduce the flow temperature a degree or two yes. Is the heatpump controlling on flow or return btw? And what DeltaT is the heatpump seeing?

so this isn't really insurance, it's boiler breakdown cover and they want to make some money out of you?

I must admit I'm rather intrigued by Cool Energy's new offering https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/myenergi-smart-ev-charger-solar-power-diverter/products/cool-energy-solar-power-diverter It's *very* like the iBoost (display, buttons, menu etc) but much bigger and currently much cheaper. I was wondering if it might be fanless, and whether the current iBoost might [cough] disappear off the market soon...

but...but... It's not a digger, it's a telehandler. They've generally got anti-drop valving so what's the problem really? /ducks and runs

Give it longer on/off periods and it turns into a SBR (small batch reactor), as there's settling time then.

long drill bit, even a masonry one will get through 10mm of OSB.

I got one of these for my father recently https://www.diy.com/departments/byron-white-wired-video-doorbell/8713016106797_BQ.prd handy upgrade for an old transformer-powered setup and can connect to any number of Byron internal wireless chimes.

sticky flow sensor worth checking for

Umm, three or four years ago...

I'm going to drag this kicking and screaming from the past with a question. It turns out that our system chimney ends up bringing the flue into the house (through the Ignis Protect insulator) a wee bit lower than would be optimal for our chosen stove. It's at 45degrees. The regs drum on about elbows being a max of 45deg and a maximum of 4in a system, with a 90 seen as 2x 45s. So this means it's acceptable to use a 45 to bring the pipe to horizontal, and then a 90 to drop it into the stove but does this then *not* allow (say) using a 15 as soon as it leaves the wall and then a 45+15 onto the top of the stove? As the resultant 60 isn't specifically mentioned and otherwise there'd be "too many" changes of direction? That would seem preferable to me as a 60 is less restrictive than a 90, and there would always be a chance of condensate drips from a truly horizontal section Am I being stoopid?

were the previous parts ever cleaned and lubricated in the ten years?

Is it really zero signal in the house? SMS can come over a *very* sketchy link. Are you *sure* SMS over WIFI is actually happening?

Nick's on the money on this one unfortunately, unless you've got at least a pressure gauge, but really a combustion analyser. My gut says that flame is a bit small but I don't see the sparkly stars you'd expect with *really* low pressure. Is it set up at a standard trim per the manual (jet spec and air number?) and make sure all the HE plates are flat, a really bent one will feck with the chamber pressure.

it it actually igniting? Vaporised fuel is a stinky white. What make and model/ can you fire it with the plates out, to visualise the flame shape and size?

I might be wrong, but I have a notion Earthwise isn't much more than a bloke in his shed...

I'll ask again just in case it was missed. Regardless of what the controller is saying, do the radiators cool off when it's trying to heat the hot tank?

yep, I was pretty sure it had to be polarity-sensitive as I've previously watched it boot up and it didn't stop after the first magnet passed by. One end of the valve travel N, the other S.

So with a bit of experimentation, pulling the OP alternately high and low (through 1kR just in case) happily sequenced the pump on. Getting just a couple of the SOT23 devices looks like a pain, so I've ordered a few of the 41F sensors in thin TO92 off Amazon so we should be sorted tomorrow. They're commonly used in E-bike motors and the like, and I've got room on the PCB for the TO92 device once I do a bit of leadout wire origami.

so were the radiators still getting hot at this time?

It's the radius not the diameter you need to enter.

have you checked the temperature coming out of the tap? The sensor might be faulty, there's generally a calibration function in the menu too.

chimney looks very low?

showing for me?