markharro

@SteamyTea and @nod you are both right I think but in this shower room the bars were used mainly to get the ceiling height level with the tiles and any acoustic benefits will be a bonus

Yes I did. I used this stuff https://soundstop.co.uk/products/genieclip-furring-strip?variant=43491336880351 and these clips https://soundstop.co.uk/products/genieclip-rst-soundproof-system?variant=43491336782047 I found this company really good to deal with and very helpful over the phone. Fixing the bars was pretty easy - shimming the joists took the most time. I bought 2 different types of LED profile - one like in @Thorfun photo above (yet to fit this) and another being this one - https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/plaster-in-wall-washer-led-aluminium-profile-85-5mm-x-56-8mm which butts up against the wall. I have fitted the latter only and what I did was to measure the gap for it very carefully and then fit the first metal bar so that the screws through the profile would go into the metal channel. As ever the time was in the working it out and measurement. Once I had got my head around how to do it things went very smoothly. Here is a photo of the ceiling now painted. I won't be fitting the others for a while. Haven't really thought about how to do these. One way I guess is to fit 2 parallel resilient bars with a gap just wide enough for the profile?

I read on one of the paint company's websites 4 weeks but our plasterer said as soon as its dry?

The cable is already in place in the toilet frame and it pops out at the bottom and wires into the WC. So it looks like I need to mount a 1 gang box somewhere between the WC and CU and bring the other end of the cable to that. And then another cable from the box that will house the fused spur cover to go to the CU?

It's a Japanese style toilet with a spray! That's the thing, the Geberit instructions don't mention it other than simply showing that you need to run a cable. I only found out when I checked with their tech support. So I could fit a 1 gang box just outside the room - cant do it inside the room now as all the boarding/tiling is done - and leave the end from the toilet there and then run a separate cable from the box to the consumer unit?

Turns out we need one for power to a shower toilet. Found out after the room has been tiled!!!......at the moment I have run a cable to the WC pan and then the other end is at the consumer unit waiting to be wired by the electrician. So the question is where does the box for the spur need to be located? Is it meant to be in the shower room where the WC is or can it be located outside the room close by? Also although Geberit say its needed is this totally essential? Thanks

That's interesting - I don't recall reading this guidance. Where did you find that? So just to be clear, is this 2 stages with the joint filler? Before the Fine Surface Treatment skim?

We are around 40+ (full) sheets of Fermacell in now and are getting the hang of it.....cutting outside with track saw and extraction after (very) careful measurement to avoid carting a cut sheet back done the stairs for adjustment.....the walls it creates are bulletproof - it almost feels like a solid wall. I like how you can router corners to have a curve on them. Cutting boxes is slow but not too bad - either jigsaw with cement board blade or multitool (steady hand) and cheapo ebay blades as they don't last long. We are now starting to fill board joins and screw holes with the FC joint filler compound. Is there a knack to filling the screw holes? I either seems to have to use quite a thick layer of compound to dome over the hole (which will need more sanding) or else if I scrape the trowel hard to smooth off the excess it tends to leave the filled hole a little concave which isn't ideal. Any tips on this welcome.

@nod thanks - having a bit of an issue visualising this mainly because I am unsure what "top hat" is? You dont have any sort of picture of what you mean do you?

I am trying to understand how this is done as the profile is normally screwed into the plasterboard and presumably then into a background joist but this isnt possible when using res bars so how do you keep the profile in place? I am assuming just screwing into the plasterboard wont be enough? Would it be better gluing with something like CT1? Thanks

Thats not the problem - will be 100mm acoustic wool. Its how to build up the floor from the chipboard up....my thought was underlay between the chipboard and the ply would serve to isolate the ply and therefore assist in reducing noise penetration to the lower floor and vice versa?

We have 2 bedrooms on our first floor. The first will have engineered timber (22mm) on 3mm Regupol acoustic underlay over 22mm chipboard. For the second we intend to get lino laid. We want to match the finished floor level of the timber as closely as possible ie a total build up of around 25mm over the chipboard. I also want to minimise sound transmission to the ground floor. The standard lino is 2.5mm I think. I wondered about using 18mm ply below that and then the 3mm Regupol below the ply? It will be a couple of mm out but tolerable I think. Does anyone have a better suggestion?

Hi @markocosic did you end up using the wood wool board? We are thinking of the same thing. The more expensive option is designed for show and I am pretty sure is fire rated. I think I read its used a lot for ceilings in Denmark

Ive got some Smartblind Eve motion powered blinds. They are battery powered but no hub needed and interface well with Apple Home. As for the price of any sort of motorised blind - its ridiculous.

Thanks everyone. I plead not guilty to the spirit level - it was our joiner's idea to do that!