markharro

@Nickfromwales thats brilliant thanks that's just what I need. One reason I had thought against the double push fit was because there may be insufficient clearance between the brown waste and the plywood behind that you can see in the photo. But of course the solution is to do a cut out from the ply to increase any clearance needed as it will be boarded on the other side anyway. Excellent now just need to read up on fitting the Alba shower pan and fancy electronic flush plate and we will be good to go. M

Also wondered about this? https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/davant-solvent-soil-double-socket-slip-coupler-110mm-black/p/119838?lsft=adtype:pla,productchannel:online,storename:,product_id:119838&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAiaC-BhBEEiwAjY99qFZ3oxmEaPGhq0wcJeE2unuk_SX-7i-0v7-fBvvQJasWbvOBtVKc1BoCrWEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#fo_c=2832&fo_k=02570195219a37bb2adb1b5a7d35497e&fo_s=gplauk

No I have yet to fit the frame - I just pushed it in temporarily for the photo. I am awaiting some special L shaped brackets for the top fixings.

@JohnMo thanks these are all very valid points but I have accounted for them yes!

I am about to have a go at fitting this frame. The kit comes with the black Geberit 90mm 90 degree bend section and a 110 - 90mm reducer. However annoyingly the reducer 110 end is too thick to slide inside the brown 110 waste pipe. So clearly I need to buy a 110 - 110 straight connector. I am looking for advice on the best part to buy. There are a couple of issues..... 1 Not much height - I will cut the brown waste lower in line with the wooden sole plate but even then I need space for the straight connector then the reducer then the final bend section 2 The brown soil pipe is slightly off perpendicular. Not by much but a bit. So ideally I am looking for a straight 110 - 110 then is low in height but has some flex? Would this Mcalpine part be a good solution? https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-push-fit-single-socket-drain-connector-black-110mm/4255V?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAiaC-BhBEEiwAjY99qPfuSVvVOwOsuArr-2ZoG7XpOUrOIn_Cq0cUdHHYCpGmS8WOWeDXsxoC3OsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I think this query has @Nickfromwales written all over it!!

Good to have your approval Nick!

The double boarding is to allow getting the height done the precise amount so that the top of our tiles comes to the exact ceiling height. Its a shower room so sound not really an issue. May go with 300mm as small room so may as well make bombproof.

Thanks for the advice. I am double sheeting so 2 x 12.5 - will 400mm centres by ok for that?

Hi I need to reduce a ceiling height a bit and intend to cross batten the exposed joists but my question is what is the normal width between battens - is 600mm ok?

Hoping @ProDave might be able to answer the above as its next to impossible to get hold of our own electrician at the moment. Will a 12 or 24V LED strip work on the same switch as a mains downlight? I have spoked to one LED strip supplier who advise against it saying (I think) that inrush current from driver might effect the downlight!? Not sure how or why or what they mean in practical terms. Another said ok to mix but only with standard on/off switch - you would not be able to use a dimmer!?

Thanks @Temp and @nod thats actually quite a difference between you both - 5.5 cm if I have it right. Are both of your measurements to the top of the toilet pan or the seat?

1m above floor height is what they advise but we are quite tall as a family. 6'3 and 5'9 as a couple although our 10 yr old is still to catch up! My query is whether its worth adding some height to the instal so that the WC pan is higher than normal above the floor? If so, how many mm?

And suggestions for wall board in shower-rooms?

Thanks for the advice. Turns out that the the lights we have are fire rated. Another connected issue though. Our electrician has wired one of our shower room switches to power a downlight and an LED strip. The LED will I think be 24V so will need a driver and the downlight is mains voltage. I called the manufacturer of the downlight and they recommended not to use it with the low voltage LED strip. So do I need a 24V downlight for these to work properly together? If so any links to a decent IP65 and fire rated 24V downlight?

Can anyone recommend? We will probably only fit 5-6 recessed downlights in the whole house but seem to recall building control had specified need to use these hoods if installing in insulation as will be as the GF/FF ceiling void will have 100mm acoustic insulation. Thanks.