dpmiller

or radiators. You can't heat the DHW and the central heating simultaneously

I might be wrong but I think HGC is High Gain Coil in Joule parlance but if so that only means a 2.8m2 coil vs the 0.8 of the standard version. not stellar for sure

Well I can't follow the signal trace to anything active on the main board. the little sensor board has capacitors between GND and both Vs and OP. The OP is pulled up by a resistor to Vs. Where the cable lands on the mainboard, there's another cap between GND and OP, and a resistor between Vs and OP. Supply voltage is 5v I'm tempted to bring the OP line high and/or low through a few k Ohms to see what pattern results in the unit being satisfied and starting the blower

I'll have a look on the control pcb later, but in the interim the US distributor is putting me in touch with someone in mainland Europe who can assist as the wee sensor board is an available spare apparently

I'll get some ideas together and get back to you over the weekend

Yep, definitely Hall. there's an actuating disc- a cam- directly above it and there are two magnets clipped into this. Problem is, I don't know if this is polarity-sensitive, but presume it is. The 2 magnets are 180deg apart, and it has no other way of telling cam-up or cam-down for valve position feedback so something like a DRV5053 I was thinking

OK chaps, my google-fu is coming up short here @Radian @ProDave etc I'm looking for a replacement Hall-effect sensor. It's an SOT-23 device, and the markings are W90B, 65AA. Does anybody know what it really is and/or what it might cross to? It's the valve position sensor in the pump for our treatment plant. ta...

Unless you've got an anemometer you don't know if it *is* slight. @Conor are you finished with mine? looks like @pocster could do with one for a bit...

I'd do a few exploratory upward holes as near to the wall as possible and see if you find timber. Even at a slight angle if necessary. 2-3mm bit is plenty...

Are you selling us something @Amy?

gonna say all those ratings are for loads hanging on a wall, *not* pull-out force off a ceiling. I'd definitely want a spreader at least but a nog for preference.

^ agree with @JohnMo on this one. But if you really wanted to there's- https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/product/38437/vent-axia-sentinel-kinetic-advance-wi-fi-receiver-module.html

what are your fan speeds?

as above, airflow at each terminal and overall fan speed need controlling for both supply and extract. Plus any overhead you fancy to guarantee positive or negative pressure overall...

what style of outlets are they? Some screw in and out, some systems need orifices changing, and then you've got overall fan speed too.

how many watts of a difference do you think there'll be between two already-efficient pumps?

I'd always seen RS's pricing as building in the shipping cost...

^ not sure if anyone other than RED modulate heating flows in that manner? Has the OP confirmed that this particular ASHP has an internal circulation pump, and that it is actually functioning correctly?

has the pump got 2 cables plugged in or just 1 mains supply? PWM pumps have a second signal wire to tell them what to do...

^ chap that did our screeding had a similar story. Dyed-in-the-wool Ford man, til about three years back when his last Transit left him stranded twice, parts took for ever to arrive, and then the repair was botched for good measure. He's now in a MAN sprinter clone and will *never* touch Ford again.

that's only the odo on the dash, what about the one embedded in the ECU (s)?

the drawing in the catalogue shows two rectangular rubber plates on a sprung mount, 90deg apart. If the drawing is accurate that means opening one port and closing the other only requires 90deg as it's switching from one plate closed, to the *other* one closed. But I've never been inside one of these so can't confirm. /edit or is there in fact only one valve plate? @Nickfromwales?

The wired remote is literally a clone of the front panel, but you can only fit one AFAIK so I'm presuming you're actually just fitting boost switches in the other rooms? In control mode 1, you can set a time period for "normal" and it will drop back to "low" outside those times. Obviously you can set low to be as low as you want. The front panel button operates Boost. In control mode 2 you can toggle between speeds using the front panel button, plus three of the input terminals can connect to a 3-way switch for manual selection of a speed. Appendix 1 of the manual details this alternative mode.

According to the PDF, your Sunvic is motor-on, motor-off, with slipseal, and the image implies it's 90deg from side to side.. Have you got the shaft 180degrees out of position maybe? Or could it be a different valve "under the cover"?

we're not in Ireland tho, and the Irish vehicle test is the NCT. PSV /public service and (more likely) LGV/ light goods are the applicable tests for that class of vehicle but the term is used a bit interchangeably, never mind that some vans can be taxed as cars too and then would be MoT'd...