dpmiller

^ that's GB-centric tho, by the looks of it. NI is a wee bit different...

https://www.walter-watson.co.uk/

I think the 15mm sections are strangling the supply to the mixer.

Are the heating flow and return plumbed to the correct ports on the mixer? What size of pipe is that at the front left of the mixer?Please tell me it's *not* 15mm...

It's reasonably big yes, but looks like it'll throttle down well and there's not very much heat to the room (remember it's a boiler). I was originally heading towards a Woodfire, either a Passiv or a CX8, or an Ecoboiler Wood, but the Passiv has gone to stoopid money, the Ecoboiler was withdrawn, and there's no production date for the CX8 currently. So I went off-piste in the hope of getting some value out of it this winter rather than next. The only thing the Bronpi doesn't have is a cooling coil but it is instead specced for a cooling injector valve which is something I've never seen in the UK.

Hydronova Plus with an add-on fresh air kit

yes, gotta burn the gases.

I'm waiting on a Bronpi boiler stove to touch down here in the next week or so. Ecodesign, external air, fancy preheated secondary and tertiary air setup. Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh.

I get the feeling the UK stove manufacturers are part of the problem. They seem reticent to do much meaningful R&D or add tech, and the response to some of the new regs was just to stop sell, rather then certificate or improve certain models. Hence the total lack of boiler stoves as of last year.

which bit of BT33 is it? have you actually got enough soil to put a slinky in before hitting bedrock?

Similar is also used for swimming pool solar heating

why would a pipe start leaking?

worth noting that the minimum cycle times on, and off, are configurable in the installer menu and if you ensure there's plenty of turn off overshoot, then you can have a gently tailing off heating period each time. Or you could try playing with the PID settings...

there are two that I know of- one for the Carel display, and one within the App. Send me a PM if there's something you think you need to change in the nether...

There's a bit more description of some things in the "original" manual, see attached. The installer password will let you make a real mess of things if you want, but you should be able to do 95% of what you need in user and timezone masks. I find the scheduler is good, you can have it on 24/7 but use temperature changes to "prioritise" heating, if you will... sprsun-user-manual-for-dc-inverter.pdf

careful... that means weather compensation is turned on so your setpoint will be all over the place, also you may not get full power when you want it. You might try setting it to high speed to begin with until you get a feel for how the system responds and can tune the WC in.

@Adam2 so have you the probe in the buffer tank, and you're controlling the heat pump on it, and the UFH is completely separate? Are you using the time and temp scheduling, and what fan mode are you in? I'd tighten the temperature difference setting a little so there's less chance of the flow going cooler than optimal, and make sure there's a bit of overshoot (this is the area where there is most modulation- it ramps down approaching setpoint, and then ramps down further in an attempt to keep the unit on and running even tho you've achieved temperature...

@joth Yes we can set variable flow or return temps, schedule temperature changes by time, run WC, choose the DeltaT etc etc. That's why I queried whether the OP was in flow or return control and what the PWM pump was up to... the CE inverter pumps might be "cheaper" than the big brand stuff, but lack none of the functionality.

put a calibration offset on the stat so it reads a wee bit high might help or if it's happening in all the rooms, reduce the flow temperature a degree or two yes. Is the heatpump controlling on flow or return btw? And what DeltaT is the heatpump seeing?

so this isn't really insurance, it's boiler breakdown cover and they want to make some money out of you?

I must admit I'm rather intrigued by Cool Energy's new offering https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/myenergi-smart-ev-charger-solar-power-diverter/products/cool-energy-solar-power-diverter It's *very* like the iBoost (display, buttons, menu etc) but much bigger and currently much cheaper. I was wondering if it might be fanless, and whether the current iBoost might [cough] disappear off the market soon...

but...but... It's not a digger, it's a telehandler. They've generally got anti-drop valving so what's the problem really? /ducks and runs

Give it longer on/off periods and it turns into a SBR (small batch reactor), as there's settling time then.

long drill bit, even a masonry one will get through 10mm of OSB.

I got one of these for my father recently https://www.diy.com/departments/byron-white-wired-video-doorbell/8713016106797_BQ.prd handy upgrade for an old transformer-powered setup and can connect to any number of Byron internal wireless chimes.