dpmiller

sticky flow sensor worth checking for

Umm, three or four years ago...

I'm going to drag this kicking and screaming from the past with a question. It turns out that our system chimney ends up bringing the flue into the house (through the Ignis Protect insulator) a wee bit lower than would be optimal for our chosen stove. It's at 45degrees. The regs drum on about elbows being a max of 45deg and a maximum of 4in a system, with a 90 seen as 2x 45s. So this means it's acceptable to use a 45 to bring the pipe to horizontal, and then a 90 to drop it into the stove but does this then *not* allow (say) using a 15 as soon as it leaves the wall and then a 45+15 onto the top of the stove? As the resultant 60 isn't specifically mentioned and otherwise there'd be "too many" changes of direction? That would seem preferable to me as a 60 is less restrictive than a 90, and there would always be a chance of condensate drips from a truly horizontal section Am I being stoopid?

were the previous parts ever cleaned and lubricated in the ten years?

Is it really zero signal in the house? SMS can come over a *very* sketchy link. Are you *sure* SMS over WIFI is actually happening?

Nick's on the money on this one unfortunately, unless you've got at least a pressure gauge, but really a combustion analyser. My gut says that flame is a bit small but I don't see the sparkly stars you'd expect with *really* low pressure. Is it set up at a standard trim per the manual (jet spec and air number?) and make sure all the HE plates are flat, a really bent one will feck with the chamber pressure.

it it actually igniting? Vaporised fuel is a stinky white. What make and model/ can you fire it with the plates out, to visualise the flame shape and size?

I might be wrong, but I have a notion Earthwise isn't much more than a bloke in his shed...

I'll ask again just in case it was missed. Regardless of what the controller is saying, do the radiators cool off when it's trying to heat the hot tank?

yep, I was pretty sure it had to be polarity-sensitive as I've previously watched it boot up and it didn't stop after the first magnet passed by. One end of the valve travel N, the other S.

So with a bit of experimentation, pulling the OP alternately high and low (through 1kR just in case) happily sequenced the pump on. Getting just a couple of the SOT23 devices looks like a pain, so I've ordered a few of the 41F sensors in thin TO92 off Amazon so we should be sorted tomorrow. They're commonly used in E-bike motors and the like, and I've got room on the PCB for the TO92 device once I do a bit of leadout wire origami.

so were the radiators still getting hot at this time?

It's the radius not the diameter you need to enter.

have you checked the temperature coming out of the tap? The sensor might be faulty, there's generally a calibration function in the menu too.

chimney looks very low?

showing for me?

or radiators. You can't heat the DHW and the central heating simultaneously

I might be wrong but I think HGC is High Gain Coil in Joule parlance but if so that only means a 2.8m2 coil vs the 0.8 of the standard version. not stellar for sure

Well I can't follow the signal trace to anything active on the main board. the little sensor board has capacitors between GND and both Vs and OP. The OP is pulled up by a resistor to Vs. Where the cable lands on the mainboard, there's another cap between GND and OP, and a resistor between Vs and OP. Supply voltage is 5v I'm tempted to bring the OP line high and/or low through a few k Ohms to see what pattern results in the unit being satisfied and starting the blower

I'll have a look on the control pcb later, but in the interim the US distributor is putting me in touch with someone in mainland Europe who can assist as the wee sensor board is an available spare apparently

I'll get some ideas together and get back to you over the weekend

Yep, definitely Hall. there's an actuating disc- a cam- directly above it and there are two magnets clipped into this. Problem is, I don't know if this is polarity-sensitive, but presume it is. The 2 magnets are 180deg apart, and it has no other way of telling cam-up or cam-down for valve position feedback so something like a DRV5053 I was thinking

OK chaps, my google-fu is coming up short here @Radian @ProDave etc I'm looking for a replacement Hall-effect sensor. It's an SOT-23 device, and the markings are W90B, 65AA. Does anybody know what it really is and/or what it might cross to? It's the valve position sensor in the pump for our treatment plant. ta...

Unless you've got an anemometer you don't know if it *is* slight. @Conor are you finished with mine? looks like @pocster could do with one for a bit...

I'd do a few exploratory upward holes as near to the wall as possible and see if you find timber. Even at a slight angle if necessary. 2-3mm bit is plenty...