dpmiller

what about the other way- I've 110mm rainwater pipes to tee into 20mm perf twinwall. Holesaw, or just let them lie in the drain stone beside the pipe?

^this. I had some holes designed into our steels that match in with the pozijoist webs. Very handy.

you don't "keep the heat in", it takes flow to make heat in the rad. You're looking for a temperature differential across the rad so it (say) flow is 55c, the return should stabilise at (say) 45c. Less flow= greater differential. The pump can only flow a certain amount so if some rads have too much flow others will lose out- that is, have too much of a differential.

means the tank is unpressurised, it vents through the tap. Our Brita filtertap is the same...

Dunno just how tight funds are, but what's wrong with precast?

but as long as you don't mind the Fgas side of things there's a Split here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/air-source-heat-pump/223736171110

where in the world are you?

knowing that loading and shrinkage are two separate things, I just ensured our blockworkers left the top a wee bit shy for now. We've clipped eaves (no soffit) so any remaining gap will be sorted by the render , at some point later in time. Under the window frames tho is different, there's an easy 1/2" gap filled with Compriband there.

^agree.

I'll see if I can find any but yes that's pretty much where I am. I may run a narrow strip of leadax down the edge of the renderboard before the render goes on tho.

there isn't a second hose by any chance? An airlift to discharge clean water?

passed 1000kWh of generation at the weekend. yay! PB of the upstairs ceiling nearly complete, loft insulation half done.

travellers + buy would be a strange concept locally...

red is slightly more flexible than blue, the green stuff wasn't around when I called up to inspect and collect some stuff.

you're still not in control of your project, are you?

best thing I ever did was get a clip-on coupler.

cartridge or manual fill, and do you make sure the nipple is clean and not stuck closed first? (oo err...)

^ yup ,that how it works on my Tak too...

is it not a spanner and grease-gun deal?

there's generally drawings supplied to confirm placement and orientation of panels, exact base measurements etc. They'd need to be done as part of the structural design surely?

depends. what do the supplied drawings show?

knowing how much Chinese input there is even in the expensive stuff, I'd say a brand name is costing rather a lot...

3l/min isn't very much surely?

you've TWO invoices?

Hep connector straight onto the end of the copper after you put it through the wall.