dpmiller

Assuming the actuators are actually opening, the temperatures are as one would expect. If you're electrically-savvy I'd be checking for 240v (or possibly 24v) to the actuators...

I've decided on something of a rarity for our new kitchen (yes, the kitchen is pretty much my domain). Double bowl/ double drainer https://www.grandtaps.co.uk/products/1500-x-480mm-commercial-two-bowl-double-drainer-kitchen-sink-f01?variant=12346085933161&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqNimnuXS5gIVF-DtCh1GNgbWEAQYAyABEgKtl_D_BwE but there isn't much choice out there that I can see with a single tap hole. I'm wondering whether a 2- hole one might be better, punching a third in the middle for the tap and using the two original holes for pop-up waste controls...

power comes from the wiring centre.

Got tired of using fan and halogen heaters. So plumbed a Willis into the main manifold and got some circulation to the upstairs loop, which covers the landing/balcony, the big bathroom, and the ensuite. I couldn't quite get enough flow through the willis just by closing the bypass over so it's duty cycle was a bit low; conveniently I was able to set a length of 15mm copper into the end of the bypass pipe (vertical, to the right of the pump )to force flow down into the cold end of the immersion. Much Better. Got the loop up to 23c return temp today and the house did feel a lot warmer for it.

the neighbour's stack is one with yours?

farmers don't use membrane in field drains and they last well enough?

Yes, but without knowing the octave range and how the transmission is happening we're all just guessing anyway.

I've fallen out with him already this morning.

piccies would help. is there line-of-sight in through either outlets or inlets to the fan/fan room? Ensuring there's no straight-line for the sound to travel on is a good start, a foam lined baffle of some kind would work for this A dodgy fan would certainly need addressing beyond this, yes, absorbant lining of the fan house (especially with proper mass-loaded stuff) would be next...

yep. I reckoned that if there really was a problem, getting down the stairs safely might just be handy.

I'm just using Aico's wireless test button and relay interface for the same kind of functionality. Smoke will kill power the the MVHR *and* an emergency light on the same circuit, but a CO problem will Boost the MVHR.

Mine's doin it at the moment. All of the panes, the whole house.

double-glazed glass unit. Warmth from inside the room heats the outer glass, raising it's dewpoint.

there isn't ZERO heat loss across the unit.

it'll be different once the room is heated.

have you actually tried power cycling it?

hehe!

we're different in NI...

https://www.walter-watson.co.uk/reinforcement/overview.php

https://cpc.farnell.com/crabtree/7009/seeklight-each/dp/PL11861?mckv=siCEoANsv_dc|pcrid|224681503328|kword||match||plid||slid||product|PL11861|pgrid|47203068935|ptaid|pla-823944588639|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImu6t4L6w5gIVjbTtCh1n3QJ2EAQYBCABEgJ6O_D_BwE

Bearing in mind that in NI and Scotland windows are installed slightly differently, I'm still kinda intrigued as to how the frames are fixed to the TF especially if they've been planed down...

so the windows were supplied oversized for the openings?

Is there any issue with using a potable vessel (replaceable bladder) on a heating system?

just consider that the windows attach the the timber frame , Zoot, so there isn't an easy way of having the window inside a bigger hole without it being at least a thermal bridge and probably a nightmare to securely seal.

Unsigned? never arrived...