dpmiller

Standard sized cheapo British plugs are coloured, efficient European ones tend to be plain grey. Cf Fischer, Lidl etc.

tee it into A or B

If you don't want wobble, fit a Tap Brace- either the plastic Franke doodah or one of the bigger brackets...

^ what we've got.

Password lets me view the menus but not alter, so Graeme is goiing to pop down and reset things for me. Here's the gubbins, as I was installing the air inlet hose earlier:

Treatment plant wired in and running. Just the air inlet pipe to sort for the pump (I'm extending it so it's little stack is in the hedgeline rather than in thee middle of a lawn) but it's working. Very quiet. The Hiblow pump sits inside a sealed "bucket"- a screw-top vessel as used for storage on boats or that Sigma chemicals are supplied in- and this sits in the middle of the "manhole" atop the airlift pipe. So well isolated from the outside world. At power-on it did a 30-min airlift discharge cycle which does have a distinct trickling water sound and then settled into it's programmed bubble/ settle sequence. The bubble portion is 14mins, not quite sure what the settle is yet. From the manual this means it's set default as 8PE. When bubbling there's no noise whatsoever and the body of water heaves with a remarkable turbulence but no visible bubbles. I darned-near had to rest my ear on the closed manhole lid to hear the hum of the pump. It's double skinned poly which helps too no doubt. I've found a passord online to try on the controller. If it works I'll play with the menus a bit and reset down to about 5PE (there'll generally only be three of us in the house) If it doesn't I'll get the rep to pop in and do it, he lives locally. Piccies to follow.

More progress today, more milestones. Paul was down bright and early (freezing!) and by the time I called down for the morning update he'd cut a fine-looking trench out the front to let the front downspouts and future ACO run straight out to the open field drain. ...which dealt nicely with the weekend's problem. The trench dug for the mains water drained into it. We then brought the water into the house, dropping from the long 32mm down the lane to a 25mm at a toby, so we've local isolation. Sent me up the lane to turn off, and them promptly made the joint live before I had a chance to even get the screwdriver out of the car. Phone line is in alongside it. For completeness, here's the rear and right rainwater drainage, with a rare sight on Sandy, in the trench, trying not to lose her wellies to the clay. All the foul works sit on top of this pretty much so we'll need a few loads of rubble now to build levels up past them. No piccies of the foul yet, must do that for my records. And the final result? Loo flushes, and Chinesium hot-water tap works. Bought on a whim but it's actually a pretty smart item. I stripped and checked it for all the usual Chinese failings. Metal clad element, earth wire connected to it, overtemp and underpressure control. Super. Just need to pull the SWA out to the treatment plant and get it commissioned now.

@Declan52 they sell and deliver direct then?

the "off" unit would need it's ducts sealing off too...

BCO made his visit today. Foul drains all good, free to carry on!

Quinn Lite 7N

our whole TF sits on a course of thermal blocks.

Our clay ridges interlock and are holed for screw fixing. No plastic spacers needed, just the roll-out breatheable strip. these, although there are likely other similar types http://www.ridgetiles.com/

yep.

Relatively busy couple of weeks. Had the groundworks guys in for a few days and so the foul drains are ready for inspection tomorrow. Half of the rainwater drainage is done too, and a trench cut to drop the mains water pipe into. With the overnight rain it's looking more like a navigation... Had some skimming done so amongst other things the hotpress is ready to receive some pipework. And this: just the door to hang now. A touch more civilised than a site loo, yes?

gonna be someone elses' chinesium surely?

the inner layer is white on all of 'em...

each will have a spec for the maximum screw length. Looks like the DS50 does 55mm, dunno about the Parkside.

red here...

@TerryE which post are the photos in please?

you need a way to force the flow out of the floor loops and into the willis...

Yep. I was able to mod my manifold to get flow out into the Willis, but only because a. it had a bypass and b. said bypass pointed at the return of the Willis. And I have the Willis underneath the manifold so have the chance of convective flow anyway. You'll need a pump... unless... where does the braided hose at the far right go? Tee into that and connect to the bottom of the Willis, and go from the top of the heater to the supply into the manifold. Cap the return. Sme of your flow will be diverted through the heater and the mixer will then sup heated water.

Because mains electric is Alternating Current. The V (dash dash) is Direct current, you'd use that around a car or to test batteries etc.

Just the 600.

It's V (squiggle) 600 you need, round to the right.