Jump to content

dpmiller

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4472

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

 Content Type 

Everything posted by dpmiller

  1. dpmiller
    gonna be someone elses' chinesium surely?
  2. dpmiller
    the inner layer is white on all of 'em...
  3. dpmiller
    each will have a spec for the maximum screw length. Looks like the DS50 does 55mm, dunno about the Parkside.
  4. dpmiller
    red here...
  5. dpmiller
    @TerryE which post are the photos in please?
  6. dpmiller
    you need a way to force the flow out of the floor loops and into the willis...
  7. dpmiller
    Yep. I was able to mod my manifold to get flow out into the Willis, but only because a. it had a bypass and b. said bypass pointed at the return of the Willis. And I have the Willis underneath the manifold so have the chance of convective flow anyway. You'll need a pump... unless... where does the braided hose at the far right go? Tee into that and connect to the bottom of the Willis, and go from the top of the heater to the supply into the manifold. Cap the return. Sme of your flow will be diverted through the heater and the mixer will then sup heated water.
  8. dpmiller
    Because mains electric is Alternating Current. The V (dash dash) is Direct current, you'd use that around a car or to test batteries etc.
  9. dpmiller
    Just the 600.
  10. dpmiller
    It's V (squiggle) 600 you need, round to the right.
  11. dpmiller
    Where is the pump going??
  12. dpmiller
    and the meter is set to VAC, not DC correct?
  13. dpmiller
    I think they're seperate. Looking at the menu for the non-inverter controller it does seem to have two temperatures but the timer programming bit doesn't allude to DHW and CH schedules.
  14. dpmiller
    looks like it's using it's own programmer to do the flow temps based on times?
  15. dpmiller
    no reason you couldn't use a poured thin screed over the timber deck either. Our FF is 50mm hemihydrate over caberdek , on 254 pozis @ 400ctrs, with a span of 4.7m. It's impressively stiff and quiet.
  16. dpmiller
    Yes, the motors are known to fail and are replaceable. Hopefully your plumber also does electric. Not all do...
  17. dpmiller
    the valve works when it gets a supply of electrical power. You haven't yet confirmed that this is happening. Once you do this than you can confirm that either the valve (it's motor on top) has failed, or instead part of the control circuitry upstream (UFH wiring centre/ stats/ timeswitch/ ASHP controller even maybe)
  18. dpmiller
    only niggle is that those stats have a pretty wide hysteresis so a "too-low" setting may let it run for a bit and then just... stop.
  19. dpmiller
    tried hitting it a whack?
  20. dpmiller
    ... once you've verified that it's failed and there isn't a supply/ control issue...
  21. dpmiller
    Correct fitment is indeed terminal box down. I don't think I've ever heard of one failing ever but I do know that the housing is light-gauge copper and the chances of unscrewing the element out of an elderly one are small. Hence some now being sold as a soldered-up unit. interesting note also that in their normal application- from the bottom to the top of the DHW cylinder- running the heater for a minute or two to get hot water moving means that you can then open a tap to a low flow rate and have continuous hot water. The willis basically bypasses the tank...
  22. dpmiller
    yep, done this a number of times at our current place.
  23. dpmiller
    nominal bore of a black-iron pipe of that size IIRC?
  24. dpmiller
    found the blurb... NIbrochure_0119.pdf datasheet-v5.pdf
  25. dpmiller
    lucky you're not in the RoI then, where modern MLCP pipes are still used in true imperial sizes... They're a kinda copper-coloured creamy brown...
×
×
  • Create New...