markc

Offer to pay the credit card charge and they may accept the payment, assuming they have credit card facilities.

I recently left some off it’s outside just out of curiosity, the pieces stood vertically with groove uppermost have suffered the most but the horizontal ones laid on a cobbled area are dirty but pretty much unaffected by all the rain. just thinking about this more, a full continuous bead of glue on top of the tongue would prevent water getting in and not gluing under the tongue would ease water getting out.

Nothing wrong with screwing down just don’t bury the screw heads as this leaves holes to fill and allow water into the core. Any holes or deep screws should ideally be filled if you are wanting resist standing water .. (slope would be better but not great for floors ) ?

Plans are open to interpretation, if you want to compare then a Bill of Quantities is required to enable all to quote based on the same amount of any item. also make a detailed explanation of what you are wanting them to quote on, level of finish, when the job will take place, where the site is, site conditions etc. even then you will get a wide range of prices back

No two quotes will ever be the same unless it is for the supply of an item only. every site, access, timeframe, client, finish required etc etc are different. the secret is to being specific with your requirements and questions

+1 on this

Never understood people concreting up against external walls. Also looks like the on Crete slopes down towards the door - this will be forcing water to drain down the face of the wall under The door area. you can free up the air brick by cutting away a strip of concrete in front of it and even adding a low power bathroom type fan to keep air moving.

Good morning and welcome.

As a turnkey package then the contractor walking away is unlikely, the labour on the other hand is very likely leaving you with possible delays etc. of course you are aggrieved, just try to find an amicable solution rather than going in all guns blazing as you have a long way to go. Tell them that you are not happy and are going to try to rectify the problem yourself and you will deduct the cost at the end …. This could well spur them into sorting it out and being more diligent in future.

That’s why Joe’s suggestion is a good compromise, they are not doing re work but see that you are not happy and want the gaps filled. Yes you have to do something but that’s better than them walking away or getting really annoyed. A bit of give and take will get you a better build and much less aggravation.

Nothing wrong with fitting kitchen then laying flooring, but fit the end panels after the floor has been laid. flooring up to end panels looks terrible and is a water trap. Fit end panels with a couple of mm gap underneath to allow any water to dry without affecting the panels.

I’m guessing the aerofoil wing provides the ‘lift’ and the forward motion turns the propellers connected to generators. im sure fixed generators with tidal acting on blades would be less problematic and easier to maintain

No need for heat, acro or jack underneath and push them up. ** do not whack it, that will cause paint damage and additional distortion. Slowly push them into place.

You can fit without top rubber (some people think the black rubber looks like mold so don’t want it) but then needs a good flexible clear or white ct1 or silicon

Sorry that was a bit harsh, it’s your build and you are wanting it right, but try not to find fault with everything or you will get more and more stressed as the build goes on.

If the outlet is in that corner then it’s probably just being held back by the membrane and a bit of leave debris. If the outlet is in another corner then you have a dip … how deep is the puddle?

??? Are you trying to find problems that don’t exist? you are at slab pouring stage and appear to have a good job done so far, as the build progresses there will be problems and hiccups, save the stress and fretting for those.

Why flexi saw? You want the trimmed area flat and level with the rafters or studs. bow saw blade with a bolt at each end to make holding easier for awkward areas but you can do pretty much everything with an ordinary wood saw … if need be bend the blade near handle to crank the handle away from wall …. But then you end up doing some cuts uphill because the saw becomes handed.

Smoke bomb or just a candle (light and blowouts lit smokes) incense sticks work great too, hold it in front of the area where fire will be, if smoke is pulled into and up the chimney then you are ok. If smoke is pushed into the room then you have downdraft

Water will look like puddles on the flattest of surfaces. This looks pretty good. Unless there is a deep bit in the larger area then I would be very happy with this

Yes one on top of other with staggered joints

+1 on @Russell griffiths comment. Rubber membrane roofs and gutters often have raised “dam’s) at outlet points to retain a shallow puddle. Never understood why but seen it on loads of membrane details.

Mobile phones got smaller and smaller until someone realised they could watch porn on them ….

Good point … oil is running out, we must cut motoring costs …. Sell bigger cars! ?. I wonder how many 4x4’s every go off tarmac or tow heavy trailers?.

The grant done work is often worse than not having any. Poorly fitted, water getting behind, cold air gaps and horrible work and detail around window and door reveals