markc

Several years ago we (as a company) looked into wind power on small commercial and domestic scale and we just couldn’t make the figures work. Capital costs plus expected life made anything we looked at not viable. recently spoke to a team who install and maintain the big ones and they said even those will never pay for themselves without subsidies.

Roof construction depends on area, spans and pitch angle …. All work with (against) dead loads, snow and wind loads etc. 8x2 timbers is an old basic design and the methods mentioned previously perform much better.

DIY installers often forget PV is the opposite way around to most installs. Guy near me wanted some help … when I said “this thing is live” his response was … no it’s not, it’s not connected to the mains yet ?

The above is sound advice. I am guessing the diagonal props were introduced to help support sagging rafters (again guessing slates removed and replaced with tiles) so increased weight on rafters. I am also thinking a wall has been removed which would have helped Support the ceiling and rafters.

Party wall agreement? yes. Struct Eng input? yes. nothing complicated building regs wise so I wouldn’t bother have specific drawings done for that. pre start visit/ chat with BC and St Eng input with construction drawings should be all you need. Detailed method statement for works on or near the party wall will go a long way.

Can’t see any reasons for underpinning, but you do need to look at excavation and foundations for your build to prevent the garage foundations being compromised. i.e, if your foundations require fairly deep excavation then some form of shoring etc may be required to prevent displacement of soil from under the garage.

Good morning and welcome. brick collector, now there’s a new one

While watching the programme I thought it was over ambitious and more like a hotel build than a house. The eye was kinda cool though.

Removing slates or tiles using a mewp is slow and back breaking. (Leaning out of the cage to reach the roof isn’t easy). As above, cut your losses and save your time and energy and let the digger do the work.

+1

One day I hope to have enough free time to #£&@ about like this. Not jealous much …. Honest .

I would go with condensation forming on the stack, then running down

Self levelling will be fine, just roughen the concrete surface to let it get hold (assuming it has been floated)

Just because he is/was registered or qualified doesn’t mean he is or ever was any good. there are a lot of highly qualified unemployable people out there. what is your time worth? Do you really want to spend your time and money educating this guy? cut your losses, learn from the lesson (cheap is cheap for a reason) and find someone who you can work with

Mulitool is very slow cutting through nails even with expensive blades. Knock or bar the timber back as far as you can then get a hacksaw in. Much quicker and easier

Omg! Think I need to be looking around Scotland for a plot instead of Yorkshire

Much easier to calculate the volume of tank and make a dip stick. anything that obstructs the filling flow will cause problems. ifyoudont believe the delivery truck gauge get them to put 20 litres into a container where you know the level. highly unlikely a reputable retailer will be fiddling the meter.

Yes they will be ideal if you already use Hep20

What are you “painting” anything inside a stove or boiler soon burns off or acts as an insulator.

If the stacks project into the rooms and the blocks ARE on the party wall then the stack must be yours …. Or am I missing something

Asking your screed supplier is sound advice, as you are tiling then I can see scope to reduce the drying time as the floor finish won’t be susceptible to moisture and it’s unlikely you will be taking the screed to anywhere near is max compressive strength. drying time also depends on how wet the screed was when it was laid.

Insulating a floor properly would mean raising the floor height substantially or digging down to add the insulation. any insulation is better than nothing, even a couple of layers of insulating underlay and a covering of laminate would make a big difference to painted concrete. Roof void if there is one is the ideal place to insulate above or insulating plasterboard to the ceiling for an “easy” improvement. is the outer wall cavity or single brick?

Will be having the Smoked pigeon or sparrow tonight sir?

Disclaimer: *no animals (well birds) were harmed during the making of this thread*

You could push the brush until it was starting to exit the pot leaving a dome or cone to prevent the birds from building a nest on it. Or bite the bullet and get someone in for an hour to cap it/them off.