markc

Depends on the underlay, but if you are UFH then an insulating layer doesn’t make sense. engineered wood doesn’t have some natural “give” so much different to walking on concrete.

Polished concrete is just that … you polish (grind) off the top of the concrete slab to reveal the aggregate. As you already have the slab you are just wanting a decorative layer. loads of aggregates available to mix with self levelling compounds etc which can then be ground back to reveal the agg. You need a decent size floor grinder to minimise scalloping and ending up with waves and ripples in the finish

Sounds like you are on good terms with the neighbours far too much unnecessary paperwork and arse covering “agreements” now. use the template or just write a simple declaration detailing the works you will do and that you will (as soon as practical) make good any damage.

Turning off the supply to the tank and letting it empty will stop the leak. immersion cable will not be big enough for an electric shower so a new cable would be required. 60amp incomer fuse is fine

Often a nightmare between old and new floors, get it right and looks great, sadly too many try butt one up against the other and it shows through the floor finish. assuming it’s just minor level/s then a liquid compound over the whole floor will sort it. im assuming and hoping the two slabs are dowelled together to keep them aligned

All of them are likely to be accurate, kitchens are very like cars, they all do the same job (but prices very drastically) some better than others and it’s all down to personal choice. chipboard is chipboard but even that comes in very different grades, fittings make massive difference to the ‘feel’ of a kitchen, especially drawer runners and hinges etc.

2 post ramps do not need big bases under them (1sq metre at 150mm thick is more than enough) the ones with longitudinal legs will even free stand but that’s not ideal. mine sits on the 100mm thick slab with a couple of bolts to stop it moving if (when) I run into it.

Mine manages to communicate a few times a year so bills are very misleading, and still no idea how they are supposed to save energy? My machines all use whatever power they need while I’m using them, the meter simply records what I use and saves a meter reader coming to see me.

Non that I know of, then again I don’t know anyone who actually torques CU’s Even on high voltage and very high current installs and cable replacements we always went on feel.

I got that too … not the best worded or informative email, couldn’t workout if it was a rant, a warning or just junk.

Good morning, welcome and +1 to the above. a search on here will cover most topics and if you still can’t find the info … ask away.

How about leaving the shadow gap and filling the void with expanding foam to stop them getting in. a wide caulk/filler bead would look like a bodge job. or cover the gap with some flat white pvc trim

Good morning and welcome

+1 to this, any water landing on the brick will end up inside if the brick leans inwards or will be pulled in by capillary action. you need a fill to take drips clear of the brick

Knock in insulation fixings. T shaped plastic plug (like a big nail).

MVHR will dramatically change the atmospheric and surface conditions once up and running. Timber, flooring, worktops etc. Should “normalise” in these conditions before being fitted or they are likely to move/crack/split etc. timber is quite happy in wet conditions as long as it stays wet. It’s the change from wet to dry and vice versa that cause problems.

If they “are” decorative then removing them will not change anything. are they connected to the walls or simply screwed or nailed to the timbers above? assuming they are not connected to the walls then removing is no problem and taking them out along with the ceiling will remove load from the trusses above so all ok.

As it’s only temporary do you really need or want to seal it? a squirt of foam at each end will do and can easily be removed when needed

Depends what you will use the area for? If it’s for BBQ etc. Then at times you will wash the floor and that will cause bleach or similar to go through the sand and into the soil anyway. trees are very good at looking after themselves, take a look at any old railway line, very toxic environment from grease, oil, ash, creosote (from sleepers) weed killers etc. Yet trees (especially silver birch) thrive in the “toxic” soil

Many new builds are so poorly built that this is now a common problem. It may not be the case that the neighbours or their cars are actually noisy but the house is amplifying the sound. I recently visited a new build detached house where you could hear next doors TV but not when outside, then people talking outside sounded much louder when heard from inside the house

While wet there is a chance of some chemical leaching but concrete is predominantly natural. damp proof membrane under the slab will prevent and escape of liquids while drying. if you lay slabs you will need something under them which is much more likely to cause a problem.

+1

All of the above a fixable. insulation around boiler cupboard or room. glued and screwed floors should not squeak. pipes clipped/ secured (but still allowing expansion). Not touching each other etc. you will always get a bit of noise as rads turn on and off etc but much of the noise can be reduced.

Really depends on length of run to get the correct fall for gutters or you end up with an obvious taper line. Not as apparent with a deep facia. if you are wanting overhang you can extent the rafter or hang gutters on drop hangers

A 1/5 m2 increase in glazed area is unlikely to make any difference and come down to a site “jiggle” detail. had you wanted to double the width or similar then it would be different. unless it affects the position of columns or beams then just get on with it.