markc

The factory we use in Italy built a very flash new office block (making too much money ?). They fitted pocket doors and quickly realised they hated them, yes they look sleek but awful to use and sometimes get stuck.

Correct, fixing into mortar is a last resort.

Carlton Brick works is just round the corner from me … they have sold their entire production for the next 18 months, they have never seen demand like this before, 3 years ago the yard was full and they were struggling

Hi, depends on what car jack you have and where you can lift/support your structure. think of putting a fence post on top of the jack to make it much taller (assuming you will lift under a rafter or door header etc. Be careful to make sure it is vertical and jack is secure or the timber will want to push out …. With force. an acro prop is the safer and easiest way of supporting/lifting joists or a doorway etc.

Looks pretty sound, I would have just skimmed over it, much better than the bodge

Is that the finished item or the ceiling with the new stuff removed

You will never see a large area of old lath ceiling fall down, one of the worst jobs in renovations is pulling these old ceilings down, all the laths are nailed and the horse hair plaster holds on tight, old plasterboard will come down in sheets.

Agreed, that’s why I said give it a knock and push/pull to see if they are stuck, and I have never heard of anyone being killed by a bit of plasterboard falling a couple of feet, I reckon at the very worst it could crack, become loose and look an ar#e but isn’t going to hurt anyone. but, knowing what it’s like to live with anxiety and worry, then get it all ripped down and start again if that’s what is needed to put your mind at rest.

@TryC for piece of mind, (assuming they are leaving the board adhesive to cure a couple of days) give the new boards a knock and push/pull, if they sound hollow, not fixed correctly or fall off then it needs sorting out. If they seem solid then you will be ok. we have all had ‘bad egg’ tradies so don’t beat yourself up, and there are worse things in life to get stressed over so try not to.

Yes, car jack with a timber on top etc, or a piece of timber, add packers to make it just over length and tap knock it in until vertical to give you a few mill of lift. or crowbar, chisel etc, lever up and put a temp wedge in.

Much easier to start at the hip and work away, but as a solution, add a piece of lathe to side of hip rafter/batten to support the slate, odd angle to cut but it will cure your problem,or add intermediate short battens as required

https://www.darttoolgroup.com/holesaws/dart-200mm-holesaw-dah200 i use them regularly, dart are on par with Starrett.

Her solicitor and someone she knows who said it’s a shared boundary …. Sounds like a line from Judge Judy. shared boundary is fine for fence repair but I don’t see how it can relate to JKW

Dot and dab ceilings … that’s a new one to me

Yes that looks like a good plan squire

If the walls are fixed down and the rafters are secure to wall then ties aren’t really needed. they are needed on masonry walls as uplift can be more than the weight of top course of brick or blocks. pain to let into ply or OSB so I would (if fitting them) plaster board over or make then a feature

+1 to this, won’t be too difficult to jack up using wedges or acros.

Hole saw (short reach so needs pilot hole or guide sleeve, or Diamond core drill, will cut through masonry , steel and wood etc, and maintain hole diameter and straight.

I came off FB around 3 yrs ago during all the remain or leave garbage, best thing I ever did. Sad that I had to say goodbye to several groups that I found really useful (similar idea to BH) but overall it was worth it. I’ve heard market place does have some great bargains but still won’t go back onto FB

So HMRC are gnomist …. Is it systemic? Everything else seems to be lately

Welcome, looks like a fantastic project, looking forward to seeing progress updates, pics and the obligatory problems …. Sorry, but they go hand in hand with interesting builds.

850 extra seems expensive, bottom panels are often film coated as opposed to truly laminated (2x thinner panes with film sandwich). If they are just film covering single bottom pane then it’s a ripoff.

If it’s a stud wall then simply a matter of inserting a strip of timber or ply etc. into the hole, screw through the PB either side to secure the timber in place, cut a fillin piece of plasterboard and screw to the new timber. if it’s dot and dab then cut and insert a few pieces of Plasterboard to make up the thickness.

Certainly not the end of the world, happens regularly … usually much worse

Well done, really happy for you