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Everything posted by markc
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Loads of details but after reading this last night and again just now, I still cannot get the picture in my head of what you are doing or wanting to know. a sketch or two? And or specific questions? I’m sure this is why no one has responded yet.
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- ceiling ties
- first floor joists
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We have loads of tree surgeon customers and several of them have wood chip burners …. All hate them, only upside is the free fuel but they say that’s not worth the hassle.
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Heat gun or blow torch (care needed not to pop the surface)
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What's the right tool for cutting corner alu profile?
markc replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
At 1mm thick it’s a hacksaw or cutting disk, tinsnipsb would distort the profile and chip the powder coat. I would use an ultra thin cutting disk .. masking tape where you want to cut, mark the line and then straight through nice and clean, tape protects the coating- 11 replies
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- cedral lap
- cladding
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The insulation will be fine, just keep your hot and cold runs away from each other, I have never understood why some people run them close together
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Options for stepped flashing mortar removal.
markc replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Tools & Equipment
Taking out the bulk with a diamond disk is the fastest and easiest, the raking bit you show is great for cleaning out the ends and verticals -
Wet UFH is fine under cabinets because the temperature is regulated by the water temp. You cannot put cabinets etc. On top of electric UFH as they generate local hot spots …. Even leaving a towel or at on the floor seriously heats up the floor underneath.
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Yes quite normal, if the concrete is over insulation and UFH then compressive strength of the concrete is meaningless
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Zoot, stop worrying about it, dry is ok. You are sitting slabs on it and it will go off. Not like laying bricks where you need mortar to Ouse into the frogs or holes. You can walk on the slabs straight away no problem with a good dry mix bed.
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That is very dry sand, add a little water. If you could make a good sandcastle with the mix then it’s perfect no need for any additives, plain water is fine
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Good afternoon and welcome
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Good afternoon Sir, grout with sand and cement mixed as you did for the tank repair. gap between slabs and step fill with pebbles or similar to easily drain water away
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Yes it will go off anyway from moisture out of the atmosphere or pulled up from the ground.
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40-45mm is good. mix the sand and cement, nothing wrong with adding a bit of water, you want it to make a good sand castle consistency … the cement then just makes it solidify.
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Non shrink tile adhesive (thick bed) or grout also works really well and no problem for the amount you will be needing. or if access is ok just ram dry mix under the column bases
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Watter the stuff that comes out of taps.
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If you have a reciprocating saw then the diamond blades work quite well
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I would be using an angle grinder
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@zoothorn I would say that’s a storage/packing sheet, never seen a peel and stick paving slab
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70mm will be fine for this purpose. dry mix is pretty much sand as it comes, usually damp anyway which will be enough to set it off. Dry mix is basically concrete that doesn’t flow, it will pack together and stay put. if the sand was completely dry then you would need water but sand that has been outside will contain enough water
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Roofing best practice, does anyone follow it?
markc replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Rafters rarely split, I have seen loads of split battens though … usually caused by bashing the hell out of them to sink nail heads. the 2.65mm nails are much easier than 3.35 (old 1/8) size plus you get loads extra in a 25kg box -
Nailing natural slate, how tight should the nails be?
markc replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Not tight! The nail is only there to stop the slide sliding, you should be able to jiggle it a bit after nailing or they will crack. Hard to describe … sort of snug but not pulling down -
Screwfix Drill/Impact Driver Twin Pack Bargains - DeWalt vs Makita
markc replied to Oxbow16's topic in Tools & Equipment
Yep, you have to use a Dewalt straight away … or it will go off and fall apart. -
Never done an ICF wall but loads of concrete, concrete needs a primer for stickiness! I can’t see a problem going straight onto styrene, just make sure it’s clean and dust free.
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Design considerations for new homes
markc replied to SteamyTea's topic in Energy Efficient & Sustainable Design Concepts
I agree they should be well insulated, my daughter moved into a new build 4 years ago and it is terrible! It’s cold, costs a fortune to heat and you can hear the neighbours talking and their phones ringing. just bought her a 60’s council house and it’s completely different, so much warmer. and low carbon electricity is going to cost us a fortune ..get ready for net zero poverty
