markc

After this was brought up last week I looked into it more, decided I like the material but if I do use it in a build I will be using a bandsaw to cut it, probably with I slicing blade instead of a toothed blade.

Where do they think any water that gets there is going to go? asking for trouble on a steep pitch roof let alone a shallow pitch. As above, strip and redone properly

4K ? 🤯. That’s it, im getting into block paving.

Difficult to fix multiple beams together without thermal bridges so the beams are usually treated as one and the insulation is placed around the unit rather than splitting the two. but it is not Impossible to insulate the two with a bit of ingenuity and insulating web members instead of simple steel plates and/or bolts

Probably less shocked if the OSB wasn’t only a few inches high

We have always called it “the Egyptian method” we have rolled and skidded bridges, furnaces and countless lathes and escalators

Say 40 bricks to a barrow, around 3 -4 mins per round trip equals 6 hours non stop. Plus damages. …. Don’t do it

If laminate then say 5mm for underlay and 12mm for the laminate/clic etc. engineered or solid timber, 18/20mm for the timber and a couple of mil for the adhesive. tiles, say 12mm for the tiles and 5mm for adhesive. all assuming the screed is flat and level

Double glazing unit using patterned glass and Georgian style dividers between the panes. If they are using blocks I can see then having real issues with cracking and movement at the joints.

Keep the UFH pipes away from the stair foot area (for fixings etc. Unless the stair is very heavy with glass side panels then the weight is not much different to a sofa with a couple of people sitting on it. if the stair stringer comes down to a peg or post then a spreader plate set in the screed would be a good idea

Best thing I did getting out of contracting, still miss the fun bits but really don’t miss the payment problems. Unfortunately it wasn’t practical to go back and take buildings and bridges back down. hope you get your money

70 cube of water is either a big roof or someone living in a rain forest. measured a new build house recently, less than 30 sqm in plan

I’m guessing there is/was a chimney close to that gable and the bulk of the dirt is soot falling and being washed down. A good clean down of the cappings will get rid of most of the problem if the chimney is no longer there or being used.

So that’s why you get toilet duck but not seagull poop glass cleaner

I can’t recommend any post manufacture treatments but you need a Hydrophilic (think that’s the correct term and spelling) coating as this causes the water to sheet and flush debris away with it. only dealt with panes already treated from the manufacturer

It isn’t useless, screed will flatten out bowed insulation no problem, lay it crown up so the edges are sitting on the deck and they will soon flatten out

Glass is not a smooth surface unless treated with a polymer type coating (self cleaning glass) but on a low angle the volume of water needed to keep sand in suspension would be like a river.

You may find you need to do a lot of foundation work anyway, agri buildings are not built to residential or commercial standards and sinking foundations is sort of accepted. there is always a way to do something, but without seeing what you are dealing with and ground conditions etc. It is very difficult to be specific.

Morning, I haven’t used them but as you are in bedrock there is nowhere for the expansion to take place. Expanders, just as blasting require an open face or side to allow the rock to expand and move somewhere otherwise you just get micro fractures. hydraulic expanders work well but it all depends on what rock you have, do you know what it is you are wanting to break?

Welcome, a lot depends on your own abilities. Many seem to think self build is a way of getting a cheap home, it is a way of getting a much better home for similar money. New builds may be better insulated etc. But many developer houses are poorly built and a Nightmare for those who live in them. Join a resident group of a new build estate and read the complaints! as mentioned previously, an old knock down and rebuild is a good option if you can find one, but if mortgaged then definitely speak to the lender before knocking down … or even buying.

Sad but true …. But people keep voting for them. If only everyone would vote for a total outsider

Shabby! what level is the ‘gap’ compared to the inside floor level? the tape isn’t the problem here, it’s water getting inside through the perforated corner bead. Plus whatever is getting blown or pulled into the gap and then behind the upper render. I think this really needs to come off from just above the joint line downwards and re applied. can you see what is behind, especially the lower section?

Hi, I would use a cheap wood saw if cutting while still rolled and a large knife for fiddly bits. assuming this is the foam honeycomb insulation I’m thinking about

Hi and welcome I have been looking around Yorkshire for well over 2 years now and still nothing suitable. Every time I see a plot come up for sale it has planning for multiple sleeping boxes (really can’t bring myself to calling them homes or houses). but there is something out there, somewhere. keep a look out, tell everyone you meet that you are looking and be ready to act when the opportunity arises.