markc

Removing trusses or any timbers in a loft is serious and needs Structural Engineer input. simply boarding a loft is pretty straight forward, opening up spaces is rarely easy and often very expensive

Why should the vendor claim on their insurance? Sorry, but you either want to buy it or you don’t.

Handy if P#£&ed, fall forward, don’t fall off

Sadly the Construction Levy is seen by planners as a way to get the infrastructure upgrades needed in an area. wakefield needed a relief road … and it was built through open fields. Some of us noticed it was built with loads of junctions that didn’t go anywhere. Few years later and all these junctions are being extended and becoming new housing estates, result …. The relief road is quickly blocking up. the developers also pay for schools, sewage treatment works and electricity supply upgrades etc.

Always static caravans to buy as they are taken off camp sites. Or a porta cabin and fit out to suit yourselves. Renting a caravan would be a premium and you will probably need it for2 or 3 times longer than you anticipate

Just about Anything is possible. Are you looking to add a small viewing panel or taking out the whole center? a solid door generally relies on the infill for resistance to racking, adding glazing requires some thought or the opposite stile to the hinges can/will drop

I wouldn’t use acid, wire brush (with the grain) this could well remove a lot of the marks. You could use some dilute bleach to then make the stains less dark, be careful and don’t apply in drops but rub to soften the edges

Hello and welcome … strange that a cut groove should go a different colour, can you see the matching grain in the grooves? a close up pic would help

Small areas will always cost much more per square metre. small areas are usually fiddly and take more time setting up and finishing off etc.

I have just used some of the 5mm wood fibre stuff from screwfix, really impressed with it for the price. I can’t see any problem doubling it up as it is quite dense and will not squash under a distributed load like laminate

Yes I would check. If it was bought outright then rip it out yourself. if leased then get a settlement figure (saying it’s no longer viable and is scrap ) and then rip it out yourself

Oh yes, only just noticed the 3” sand ? no idea what that does … apart from wash away if the area is quite wet.

That’s a detailed high spec base and should do the trick. always a difficult decision when building on ground that will heave and fall. If it was a structure you would take foundations down below the affected ground and support the slab above it(beam and block style). as your application is a patio, some slab movement isn’t as detrimental so strip and sub base etc is probably the cheapest and easiest

it easily goes unnoticed because all the sockets can still provide electricity. Awkward to diagnose as well. ohh yes! Lived here 5 years and only found the broken ring, and miss fed other ring while fitting a new kitchen. Whoever built the extension and/or whoever fitted the new CU broke the upstairs ring and left the bare ends bedded in plaster AND fed the downstairs ring from two separate breakers with two spurs in the cellar making the other two ‘ends’

Leaving voids is easily done, using a poker is one of those tossy half-hearted jobs that rarely gets done properly. The nature of an ICF wall (high and thin) puts more reliance on proper poking than foundations or similar bulk fill pours.

Harsh! But I see your point. @oldkettle it will do …. Not in a Yorkshireman way! Yes it looks a bit untidy but it’s also not easy to get surface mounted wiring neat and tidy without a lot of practice.

This is an interesting question, as yes many houses look cheap while others give a better “feel”. my GF sees white tiles and hates them, calling them toilet tiles, but she also hates any sockets and switches that are not plain white. been in too many homes that look like IKEA crash sites (but there is a lot of really good IKEA stuff that I love). windows and doors make a big impact, amount of daylight in a property makes a big difference

If it’s cable then no, if conduit then the conduit can fill, hence the drain hole at lowest point. “Sealed” boxes should keep water out but that’s only if the seals are seated correctly etc. As your install if pretty sheltered anyway then you will be fine with bottom entry

If an electrical box could fill with water, drill a drain hole. Often see external cable (tv and satellite especially) where the cable runs down and then into a wall without a drip loop formed … then people wonder why internal walls are getting damp.

I’ve never had a problem with comps on Plastic (Hep20 preferred)

Sarna will never look as crisp as zinc or any other metal but is much quieter in the rain and very durable

Hello and welcome, loads of info on here using the search function. Finding a plot is the hardest part … I’ve been looking for around 2 years

Definitely worth buying, I got a pair of dual pads from Screwfix years ago and they have never let me down, windows, big tiles, sheets of steel and kitchen units!

You could use crates but would then need a load bearing “bridge” to support vehicles. some crates do have a load bearing rating but no idea what it is.

I have seen a fake standing seam done with Sarnafil (think that’s the right term or spelling) for the waterproof membrane and it was really good. Does not dent or distort with heat or nearby trees/ birds dropping things onto it. Easy to walk on and clean. we didn’t fit it but was interested because we used to erect a lot of the big fabric tensioned roof structures