markc

Morning, I haven’t used them but as you are in bedrock there is nowhere for the expansion to take place. Expanders, just as blasting require an open face or side to allow the rock to expand and move somewhere otherwise you just get micro fractures. hydraulic expanders work well but it all depends on what rock you have, do you know what it is you are wanting to break?

Welcome, a lot depends on your own abilities. Many seem to think self build is a way of getting a cheap home, it is a way of getting a much better home for similar money. New builds may be better insulated etc. But many developer houses are poorly built and a Nightmare for those who live in them. Join a resident group of a new build estate and read the complaints! as mentioned previously, an old knock down and rebuild is a good option if you can find one, but if mortgaged then definitely speak to the lender before knocking down … or even buying.

Sad but true …. But people keep voting for them. If only everyone would vote for a total outsider

Shabby! what level is the ‘gap’ compared to the inside floor level? the tape isn’t the problem here, it’s water getting inside through the perforated corner bead. Plus whatever is getting blown or pulled into the gap and then behind the upper render. I think this really needs to come off from just above the joint line downwards and re applied. can you see what is behind, especially the lower section?

Hi, I would use a cheap wood saw if cutting while still rolled and a large knife for fiddly bits. assuming this is the foam honeycomb insulation I’m thinking about

Hi and welcome I have been looking around Yorkshire for well over 2 years now and still nothing suitable. Every time I see a plot come up for sale it has planning for multiple sleeping boxes (really can’t bring myself to calling them homes or houses). but there is something out there, somewhere. keep a look out, tell everyone you meet that you are looking and be ready to act when the opportunity arises.

Highly unlikely this is bowed panes, large lightweight units really need to be sealed at the lowest expected temperature or not sealed at all. Many double and triple units in very cold areas are not fully sealed for this very reason. on hot days the fill expands pushing the panes apart which looks weird but is fine, the problem is the panes touching on cold days causing an immediate thermal bridge. A simple hole in the pane or edge seal will prevent the distortion but can allow fogging

One of those exercise/pressure points knobbly rollers mounted on a threaded rod makes an excellent levelling roller and they wash clean really easily

Cool stairs

6x4? Would have sounded more plausible at 2mx1m but as above … he’s talking bol%@&

How much? 🤪 an average of just over £100 per month covers my house and home workshop and I have a decent size lathe, milling machine, table saw, etc etc etc.

Friend of mine got in touch yesterday to ask if I could replace her living room light, her new smart meter showed it costing over £2 per hour to run ….. 5x5w LED’s told her to keep the light and Chuck the display in the bin!

Yes the red diesel “phase out” is going to impact a lot of costs relating to construction and scrap yards, waste processing etc. Plus, all these yards storing white diesel now will make them targets for diesel theft.

Welcome, sounds like you have been doing your homework

I think you are way under on your estimated costs unless you will be doing most of the work yourself. 1200/sq is very tight on a full build and smaller builds cost much more per sq/m due to inefficiency of size. £70k for a shell is low if you are considering decent spec doors and windows

If resin anchoring into hollow walls etc. You drill the hole and insert a mesh sleeve, this directs the resin and acts as reinforcement. Sleeves can be purchased or self formed by rolling plastic or metal mesh into a tube and folding the end over to stop resin being pushed straight out of the end

Granite is best drilled with diamond core drills especially if the holes need to be pretty clean. Granite shatters with percussion drilling and as above, it’s hard! core drilling is vibration free, no splinters and much easier on the operator and equipment.

If it’s a structural wall then I would be using whatever the SE specifies

A built-in appliance is pretty much a free standing without the casing, however fridges and freezers need to loose heat so built ins tend to have larger evaporators because there is less air flow around them. if you ensure the free movement of air then no reason why you can’t build in with a bit of thought and ingenuity to attach door panels etc.

The timber structures were often over boarded with T&G boards and loads of knots fell out, at 12,15 or 18mm thick they were perfect for snot holes in the sides or faces of beams. You did get the odd eagle eyed smart ar#& who spotted a knot crossed a couple of laminations but not often

Sounds similar to when I did a lot of timber engineering, especially Glulam, if you found a rotten bit, find a suitable sized knot from the saved bin and routed the beam to accept the knot and glue it in then sand flush

Always handy to have a big bag of assorted holes in your tool box.

+1 never re sanded a floor yet, even when I had a farm and loads of people used to walk in and that was engineered and much softer than oak … and a fairly dark finish that would show up scratches if they were deep

No experience with the treatments you mention but yes, bricks are porous and soak up water. If you weigh one and then submerge it in water for an hour or so and weigh again you will be surprised how much water they take up. if fully sealed I can’t see a problem, but if water does find its way in and then can’t get out and freezes you have the spalling all over again