markc

Good! Some people will use any excuse to stuff contractors

Big stuff we send a truck over, small items we get UPS (booked in UK) to collect the items. as long as there are 6 copies of the delivery note attached there is no problem … and everything arrives with 5 copies still on the package so no idea why EU are demanding 6. yes you pay the VAT over here but you don’t pay local tax so cost is pretty much the same.

They may not be in breach but this is causing you stress you don’t need, tell him/them your concerns, be fair and you appreciate as yet they have done nothing wrong, but you are concerned and they haven’t done anything to reassure you and you would like your money back (assuming they haven’t bought materials) or you want the goods (with invoice from their supplier) and you will pay them costs plus 10%.

Good morning and welcome, 25mm to your boundary? I would ask how far away the main is? If they are supplying a long 25mm then it’s pointless you doing anything larger and you could well end up with a low pressure and flow. If this is the case then a sprinkler would definitely need a large storage tank and pump system.

Totally agree, all these bat-phobic, wingist builders

Can we change the names to Boris and Putin? …please!

If he had to subcontract the work then it’s not sounding good, ask for your money back or the timber you have purchased.

Sounds like you need to get it skimmed by a decent plasterer. you could sand with a big drywall sander but it’s a horrible job even with good dust extraction

Hello and welcome, at the moment plots are like unicorn poo … or certainly around my area they are. but it can only be your decision …. Have fun either way

Agree with both @Marvin and @Bonner

Ahh, just re read all the previous notes and I see where you are coming from, I would leave the acros in and screed around them, no problem taking them out after and filling up the bit of missing screed.

It wouldn’t be unsupported, this is a pretty common method used by thousands of builders while removing walls, adding lintels etc. We have done it on railway bridges (big acro props) while trains are still running.

Nothing to say how thick or thin a wall needs to be, sound insulation can be achieved without big loss of space. im guessing it is more for ease than anything else, speak to the builder

No problem fitting and changing drawer fronts and doors. as above, call or go see them, has the timber being purchased? If not, why not? Etc. don’t waste money on the legal system unless it becomes absolutely necessary.

A timber frame holds up the upper floors and plasterboard is ok to protect the timber.

This is quite common with developer houses, patios laid on mud, fence posts without concrete, no soil under turf etc. you could try digging a hole to see what’s down there and fill with stone or rubble to act as a catch pit/soak away

Odd specification and can you be more specific on what items or sections we are talking about. if it’s truss assemble steelwork (flitch, king/queen post or heal plates etc) then intumescent paint would prevent good close fitting and strength. if it’s a truss tie bar or support beams etc then I can see the benefit of fire protection … sort of. spraying is rarely done off site/pre erection due to the delicate nature of the intumescent coating.

So many options, Douglas fir, oak, larch would all be great but nothing wrong with pine and spruce etc. if it’s treated and not highly loaded. Really depends on the design and how the timber will be used and joined etc. decking timber is good as it’s kiln dried and pressure treated so stable and wellprotected

Ventilation is always good, ideally don’t build your inner walls and insulation etc while the brickwork is wet through, but once your inner skins are up there will be little to no moist air hitting the bricks and the space will be much warmer anyway.

Elects? Presume that’s elements in which case the wall will be cold and condensation is to be expected

Your look fine, the tile fixings should be the weak link to prevent the whole roof coming off in one lump if wind did get under it. what happened to the felt? Has it been pulled out or never had any?

+1. maybe use a thin metal strap folded into a hinge and screwed to inside, it’s a bodge but no worse than the boxes themselves

Thanks for this, I kept looking at the post and thinking something must be wrong because it shouldn't be that difficult, completely missed the hydrated/hydraulic ?

Basic water level https://www.instructables.com/member/retswerb/

Why would a GRP roof have an ugly raw edge? As you are keeping the gutter to the rear, a nice fascia is the way to go