markc

Both of the above sections through have drains/weeps in the profiles. the one posted by Craig i would imagine also has one to drain the centre left void of any collecting water

My 2t full cab machine says 980mm with tracks fully in but really needs 1100mm to realistically get through without scraping something

Gates need to be far enough back to allow for average vehicles to pull up to the gates and be clear of the highway, this includes visitors but not trucks or abnormal vehicles etc. can’t remember the specific length but it is around the length of an average garage so around 16ft

Outside you don’t seal it as the rusting process sheds finger and hand prints, inside the rusting process is so slow that hand prints are a pain, the surface sucks up oil and it looks terrible. Waxing produces a great effect but it is shiny and looks like a coating, an install we did in a London office park was sprayed with a light coating of Matt clear lacquer, still had a bit of a sheen to it and not like a true rusting surface but it was impervious to hand prints. we supplied a full stainless steel conservatory for lord Sainsbury and that ended up getting sealed after several re polishing s due to hand prints. That was waxed over a brushed finish

As above, take 3 phase into the house. I pay same standing charge as I did for single phase. If it’s a big house I would even split into two CU’s on different phases or install a phase switch on CU tails in case of a power cut. Rare all the phases are taken out during a fault or line strike so you can still have power if a phase or even two are lost

Unless the air inside the building is very dry then it will continue to rust and come off when you brush against it, this is true of Corten or plain mild steel. Obviously the amount of rust formed will be drastically reduced indoors.

Waste using Cotten indoors. Just use ordinary mild steel, leave outside for a few months to rust, light brush to remove the loose stuff, bring inside, wax to seal.

Use a disc cutters to remove most of the mortar, rest will scrape out with a thin chisel or bit of flat steel bar then giggle the bricks around and they will slide out.

No idea where seepage came from, stupid corrective text. Can’t see there being no stop tap before the meter

Should be a seepage stop tap in another “hole”

Hi and welcome, This really comes down to what’s important to you and why you want to build instead of buying something already there. if you need 300sq metres is pretty pointless designing and building a tiny home. if you have a small plot you will not be able to build a sprawling mansion. who will live there? Future plans? Ages? Etc. when it comes to the build, what will be accepted? Construction methods etc. with costs rising insulation and efficiency need to be a real priority

+1 to this

I’m guessing this is just an agent type website who will take your order then try to get someone to fulfill it. I would definitely be wary.

Interested project, as a burn there is very little ‘power’ available but it is constant so worth exploiting. Some experimenting will be required with paddle surface area and gearing to the generator to find a happy medium that will work with a low flow rate and no head of water

Moist warm air permeates up through most homes and will condense when it hits a cold surface like the felt under roof tiles. if you had water running down a chimney or wall in a loft then you should be concerned and looking at flashing problems. from the pics the tiles appear straight and well seated so I can’t see any problems.

Haha, either that or Ad Nauseam

£8-10k extra for that part or total? If you don’t want piles you could look at digging out all the roots and clay and replace with compacted stone but piling would be a lot less disruptive and probably much cheaper

Omg! Derek and Clive?, or something like that. I still have the LP complete with puke bag somewhere

Possibly asbestos cement which is a much lower risk than fibrous asbestos. You can get samples tested to be sure.

You may struggle with a two story extension but their window shouldn’t really be there so we’ll worth applying for planning anyway.

😮 how dare you imply building a few more turbines won’t solve the energy crisis, cure the sick, home the homeless, save the penguins and make the roses smell nicer.

How do you lift the engine crane up? 😉

Genie hoist or similar to get onto the roof then roll them into place. if you have a local tree surgeon who has a spider cherry picker (with hoist attachment wink wink) get them to lift them into place

Happens often, you can only minimise the potential impact by careful design, orientation and position of your build on your plot. Don’t put big windows etc. Looking towards what could be a close development.

Could be gap for door itself or he may mean the frame to allow wood or tiles to slot underneath. I have just done some frames with 15mm underneath and wish I had left more … it was a pig of a job slotting the 8mm click fit planks under with 5mm underlay. 20mm under a door for underlay and carpet sounds pretty good