markc

@zoothorn sorry I didn’t realise (read) you were using twin wall, I figured it was a simple ‘shed chimney’ needing a rain protector China mans hat (pretty sure you can’t call them that now)

Depends on design, many cowls are on spring legs, some need a pilot hole and a self tapping screw

didnt think Wind turbines would be something I'd be talking about you will be amazed, and probably shocked and confused etc etc at some of the things we end up talking about on here,

If shelf is to be old style with an upstand then you can do the following much easier.

Depends on width and thickness of shelf but dowels drilled into the walls and corresponding holes in the shelf so the shelf slides onto the dowels. works well, but needs accuracy in drilling. dowels are either steel round bar or threaded rod or small diameter alu tubing with long screw into wall plugs

500x500 is a substantial footing, but the footing design depends on how the structure is fixed (or not) to the existing as you don’t want differential movement in the event of ground shrinkage or heave.

As wind turbines always face into the wind and wind does not circulate there is no need for slip rings. Like tower cranes they tend to Oscillate from left to right and while a tower crane is left free to rotate when not being driven the cable rarely gets more than one or two turns in it even in very gusty conditions and over the length of the tower (sometimes secured at intermediate points) a couple of turns over the free length is nothing to worry about.

Both of the above sections through have drains/weeps in the profiles. the one posted by Craig i would imagine also has one to drain the centre left void of any collecting water

My 2t full cab machine says 980mm with tracks fully in but really needs 1100mm to realistically get through without scraping something

Gates need to be far enough back to allow for average vehicles to pull up to the gates and be clear of the highway, this includes visitors but not trucks or abnormal vehicles etc. can’t remember the specific length but it is around the length of an average garage so around 16ft

Outside you don’t seal it as the rusting process sheds finger and hand prints, inside the rusting process is so slow that hand prints are a pain, the surface sucks up oil and it looks terrible. Waxing produces a great effect but it is shiny and looks like a coating, an install we did in a London office park was sprayed with a light coating of Matt clear lacquer, still had a bit of a sheen to it and not like a true rusting surface but it was impervious to hand prints. we supplied a full stainless steel conservatory for lord Sainsbury and that ended up getting sealed after several re polishing s due to hand prints. That was waxed over a brushed finish

As above, take 3 phase into the house. I pay same standing charge as I did for single phase. If it’s a big house I would even split into two CU’s on different phases or install a phase switch on CU tails in case of a power cut. Rare all the phases are taken out during a fault or line strike so you can still have power if a phase or even two are lost

Unless the air inside the building is very dry then it will continue to rust and come off when you brush against it, this is true of Corten or plain mild steel. Obviously the amount of rust formed will be drastically reduced indoors.

Waste using Cotten indoors. Just use ordinary mild steel, leave outside for a few months to rust, light brush to remove the loose stuff, bring inside, wax to seal.

Use a disc cutters to remove most of the mortar, rest will scrape out with a thin chisel or bit of flat steel bar then giggle the bricks around and they will slide out.

No idea where seepage came from, stupid corrective text. Can’t see there being no stop tap before the meter

Should be a seepage stop tap in another “hole”

Hi and welcome, This really comes down to what’s important to you and why you want to build instead of buying something already there. if you need 300sq metres is pretty pointless designing and building a tiny home. if you have a small plot you will not be able to build a sprawling mansion. who will live there? Future plans? Ages? Etc. when it comes to the build, what will be accepted? Construction methods etc. with costs rising insulation and efficiency need to be a real priority

+1 to this

I’m guessing this is just an agent type website who will take your order then try to get someone to fulfill it. I would definitely be wary.

Interested project, as a burn there is very little ‘power’ available but it is constant so worth exploiting. Some experimenting will be required with paddle surface area and gearing to the generator to find a happy medium that will work with a low flow rate and no head of water

Moist warm air permeates up through most homes and will condense when it hits a cold surface like the felt under roof tiles. if you had water running down a chimney or wall in a loft then you should be concerned and looking at flashing problems. from the pics the tiles appear straight and well seated so I can’t see any problems.

Haha, either that or Ad Nauseam

£8-10k extra for that part or total? If you don’t want piles you could look at digging out all the roots and clay and replace with compacted stone but piling would be a lot less disruptive and probably much cheaper

Omg! Derek and Clive?, or something like that. I still have the LP complete with puke bag somewhere