markc

As this was the external wall I’m presuming it’s still structural so pulling out and replacing is a lot of work. As it won’t be seen anyway rake out sections of mortar and repoint, ramming the mortar into the voids with a piece of wood or blunt chisel. The bars would do very little. After stabilising the rest of the wall you could chisel out around the pipes, pull them together, sleeve through the wall and then make good around them. Split a length of plastic pipe along its length and slide over the pipes to sleeve instead of disconnecting and passing through.

I would definitely go with Osmo top oil

If you are oiling then don’t use resin or other filler. larger holes glue in a knot or plug. smaller holes etc. Make some sawdust, mix with titebond or similar decent quality wood glue and use that to fill

Wall mounted taps (you can’t create an intention trip hazard by having to step over taps). Good extractor and plenty of lights.

A politician doing what’s right for the majority …. Good luck finding one of those

Yes, a bit of ground works would put the bottom step “in tolerance” they don’t need to be exactly the same but close! An obvious different step is a red flag.

Energy density, they are building towers of dense concrete or steel blocks and a automatic crane grabs and places the blocks or grabs and lowers them to the floor. You would need a massive water tower to hold an equivalent mass and height difference. They are also looking at deep shaft variants

Two stairs leading to one landing can have different rise and going, but any stair must have equal rises in that run. What is the ground at the bottom? Can this be graded to sort the bottom step height.

I would still just get on and do it, if when you came to sell the conveyancer picked it up (unlikely) then you could get an indemnity insurance against future problem, these do not cost much at all. Seller had to get one for an extension on a house I bought as the extension did not have planning.

Do you have nosey or problematic neighbours? If not I would just get on with it if you are effectively replacing an existing especially if you are intending staying put for a number of years.

Very expensive to have extrusions in a specific colour, but upvc paints very well with car paints (as colour matched plastic bumpers). This would be much much cheaper than a manufacturing plant stopping the line for a specific colour run.

Congratulations, plots are getting hard to find so well done. as above, don’t look at the whole picture (except design wise) but break it down into chunks and deal with them as needed

1st and second lift? Brick courses? Stories? And are you talking about a movement joint?

That’s much better than the ones I was thinking of, 24mm deep is nothing and lamp has a good diffuser angle

You could use an LED strip slotted into a Ali extrusion (similar to under cabinet). but 40-50mm at the apex of an eaves space isn’t much use anyway. poor energy rating on an LED especially as it’s only 10w anyway seems really odd.

Dpc is to stop moisture ‘wicking’ up from the foundations. As this stuff should be non porous then no way for water to travel up hill. Ideally space off to prevent any capillary action drawing moisture up between the surfaces

Now that looks vintage, hook looks much better, as joe says, grip on inside or Chuck it away and put a cable tie around the flex on the inside to stop it pulling through. on the bigger old ceiling roses we used to tie a knot in the flex … they never pull out.

Vintage style with a visible black plastic grip 🙈

I wouldnt be so optimistic regarding the existing floor being insulated, more likely it isn’t so putting pipes into the concrete is a waste of time and money. Drilling a hole would give you the answer but then that would puncture a radon barrier or DPM, better to check at the interface with new floor as that area will be disturbed anyway

‘Slippery ness’ of stone depends more on how it’s used, what lands on it and how often it is cleaned (assuming it’s isn’t polished to start with. granite has a very course jagged surface when broken making it ideal for non slip areas, basalt is finer grained but still much harder than many rocks so will keep the roughness longer. Foot and vehicle traffic will polish any surface over time. biggest cause of slippery is moss and general dirt filling the surface causing it to become slippery.

If the lead is cosmetic then what is stopping water going between the wall and tiles? plus the pitch is quite low so water is likely to be blown uphill and under the lead.

Main concern would be what the channel discharges into, if this is a foul drain then no problem but you cannot dump waste water into a surface water drain.

Stud to thickness of wall plus 10-15mm for D&Dv(unless others have a better thickness) then PD stud wall and overshoot onto wall as the starter board

Depth depends on where it will run to and distance. A drain can be pretty much level but the water has to go somewhere

Base size and configuration depends on the loads being imposed. A canopy has mass (weight) to distribute and uplift or overturning moments that need to be held down. a swing gate is a cantilever and produces a rotation load onto the pillar and it’s base. So the posts need to withstand bending and the foundation must have sufficient bearing on the ground to prevent it ‘cutting through’ the earth. brick pillars need to be massive or be brick around a steel or concrete core