markc

Hello and welcome, a search of previous posts and threads will probably throw up most of the info you are looking for but if you can’t find anything then feel free to ask.

As it’s inside there is little chance of rapid drying through sun or wind so nothing required

I wouldn’t have added felt but I would have a corner tray (not really a tray but term often used to describe a flashing under the cladding) to take any rain blown behind the corner flashing away from those corner battens.

Aluminium trims can be bonded with grp and on fairly short runs will be fine, on long runs you could well find the trims distorting with heat expansion where the grp trims are pretty stable over a very wide temp range

The board is for an expansion joint and the sleeves ensure the wall does not move out of alignment (or fall over in extreme cases) so yes you need both

A couple of lintels are overkill loading wise but as they cost very little and are convenient they are the way to go

That could well be Keruing … can vary hugely in colour, it’s like cutting iron and the dust is horrible

Looking closer I reckon you are right, but to use the roof it will likely need to come off anyway not least in order to strengthen the structure and install upstands and edge protection etc. Making a roof a usable space is much more than gaining access. doh! Just notice @Roundtuit bet me to it.

Had a few bespoke pieces of glass made by Glassandstainless.com and they have been really good, wasnt walk-on and it was the right size.

Are they PV panels or skylights? PV panels roofs usually have access walkways and handrails or edge protection systems which I can’t see on those pics

Not the best detail to fix to but the job that has been done is terrible and will never be solid, as mentioned before it should have been taken down the side and through bolted or a spigot welded to the beam flange, and newel slotted over (boring a big deep hole in post is awkward but not that difficult).

Forget that, just re read post

Posts with alu channel works well too (great for steel posts) slide glass in and silicon or mastic to fix in place

It does look like lead, can’t be 100% sure without feeling/scratching it. I am curious why an access hatch? Unless this i a very tall building or difficult access.

I can’t see the top pic ? Assuming there is 2 and not just a big white area.

Depends on panel orientation rather than ridge/eaves direction as large roofs are very low pitch. Lower edge of PV panel to wind will cause a down force, upper edge of panel to wind will produce uplift

Switch fuses are all very similar, some are easier to make connections, some have thicker enclosures. The Hagar boxes do seem to last better exposed to the elements. If you are putting it into a box/shed/kiosk then I would be going for the Lewden box. Had a couple of the Electrical Direct Dist Boards and found them flimsy with rubber screws

Panels on the roof would also add to dead load and could significantly increase snow load. Portal frames are generally designed to bare minimum loadings to reduce build costs.

Last nuisance tripping problem I had turned out to be electric UFH in bathroom

Jobsworths!

It may be frowned on but I don’t know of anything that says you can’t have water and cable in the same duct especially as it’s on your side of the supply. Both in the same trench is common and the trench will drain whereas a duct probably won’t (assuming ends turn up).

Got to agree with the above, that roof doesn’t look bad at all

Easy in wood, bars would be too chunky and horrible in UPVC and horrendously difficult and expensive to produce in aluminium (and look right). I think you will have to go with bars inside the units or maybe fake bars on outside of glass after fitting units

Compressor to blow it through works much better than sucking