markc

Electric UFH can can see some big changes in temperature (one left a towel on my bathroom floor and burned my foot when I stood where the towel had just been) but wet rarely gets above 35 deg C, and cannot create hot spots. Plus the laminating process is done at around 50 deg c to cure the adhesive.

Looks good and you have done well. Takes you a bit … well lot more time than most but you get there eventually.

What’s going on next floor down? Have chimney breasts been removed?

Sounds like a bit of bullsh1t. If you glue flooring together it becomes a big piece, nothing weird, magical or sinister. Now if the flooring is very thin or brittle then anything underneath would need to be flat and rigid so soft underlay would cause problems. What is the flooring material, thickness and make up? Some pics would help

No reason for it to be picked up in ‘the plans’ and you can have low level windows but they have to be protected so either not opening at all, or only top part opening and any low level glass must be toughened and laminated

Hi, sounds like you are just re roofing so no reason to involve BC. Yes you need the work doing properly but concentrate on this. Struggling to visualise the beam support points so some pics of this would be helpful. What contract do you have? You are certainly within your rights to hold monies back. contact BC yourself, express your concerns and see if they can/will pop in to have a look

What’s to the left and below? Looks like a lintel of some sort just into view on the left

That’s in poor condition, as a temporary measure you could use expanding foam to ‘stick’ things in place and provide some support but you really need to look at a strip and re tile as a good storm could shake a lot of that loose.

The tanks themselves are ok but if storing water then you need to fully cover them to exclude sunlight

It is possible to replace some tiles from the inside but unlikely if you haven’t done it before. a sheet of lead or similar could be slid in with some faffing about but you need to remember that the flashing needs to go under the upper tiles and then over the sides and bottom … very difficult from inside. Are you sure you need scaffolding or someone with a spider cherry picker for an hour.

Spider cranes will easily fit through a gap you would struggle to take a transit

You can use compound to simply fill in the low spots, however if your high spots are already too high then grinding a scutching is the only way (apart from remove and replace)

Looks like it was the relay coil, shouldn’t be too difficult to sort out.

Exactly! If you have a descent head from the plant then it would be enough to open the flap but you also wouldn’t need the flap.

Really depends on how much higher the treatment plant is against the expected upper level of the burn. A down stream bend wouldn’t hurt

T&G ply isn’t as good as T&G chip because the ply layers can leave longitudinal grain only allowing tongues especially to break off easily. As above MR flooring chip with glued joints is bullet proof

Do you really have so much free time at the start of a build? Charing wood is messy, time consuming and difficult to work with after it’s been done. I would rip out what you can, stack properly and cover it up for later

Savings can always be made but what are you wanting the roof to look like? And what about future maintenance etc. also depends on roof design, shape and angle etc.

I’m struggling to understand the question

What’s under the floor? Seems a shame to go EWI, UFH and no floor insulation. If it’s just a void how about taking out the wooden floor and filling in with plenty of insulation and screed with UFH.

Chicken wire or similar mesh, scrunch up into a ball shape and push into the pipe. Rat proof, easy to pull out and clean/check and no fixings to rust or seize.

Yes, visqueen or similar sheet material

I was in middle of editing my post as it was clearer in my head than on page, if packing then definitely put down a sheet membrane as it’s cheap, easy and peace of mind. Liquid is over the top and messy

If the floor will be suspended then a liquid dpm is pointless as no physical contact will be made. if the insulation would be sitting on the concrete then I would be doing as Nod says and just using a sheet membrane