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Caddy

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  1. Bit late on this but I had the 9 of the same panels (390W Trina) fitted with Growatt Inverter for £5200. The panels are around £100 each so £8900 seems expensive to me.
  2. I live in a small (60m²) stone built cottage in the Somerset coutryside. There is no mains gas (in the whole village) and heating is currently either a solidfuel stove or electric convection heaters. I am trying to decide whether to go down the route of installing a ASHP, potentially trying to get it in before the RHI deadline (a silly idea I know). The house is poorly (I think) insulated being solid (about 0.5m thk) stone walls and solid floors, but I think being so small it would not take a lot to heat. I made a start on increasing the insulation, replacing the tatty loft insulation with 100 PIR (got a load cheap) with 170mm normal loft inslation on top. I will also be insulating some internal walls where it do not make too much of a change in room size. I think the house is fairly air tight as there is only 1 door, covered by a enclosed porch, and 4 pretty small windows. The only other penetrations to the walls are 1 x soil pipe, 2 x waste pipes and 1 x extractor fan. I have checked these for leaks and they seem ok, although I will replace the extractor with something more modern I think. I also have a 3.5kW solar PV system on my south facing roof. I'm thinking of a simple system, just a rad in each room (4 or 5 depending if I put one in the kitchen) with no UFH or DHW from the heat pump. I have minimal HW requirements and either the PV heats the water or its cold if its cloudy, I'm not too bothered. An hour on the immersion heats enough water for me to have a bath normally anyway. The house averages about 11-13°C internal temp at the moment. This is fine for me and I only put the stove on if it gets below 10°C but this low temp must be bad for the buildings fabric and increasing the risk of damp and mould. It is also pretty uncomfortable for any guests who normally don't like to live as cold as I do. I would only be wanting the rooms to be around 17-18°C, as 20-21°C feels far too hot to me. Do you think I am a good candidate for using ASHP for heating? I think I would need a small compact system and I can keep the flow temp down pretty low as no DHW heating and low requirement for room heating, so hopefully should get a good COP. I can install the rads and pipework myself (sized correctly) and any of the monobloc that I'm allowed to do to try and keep costs down. Would shooting for the RHI be advisable or wait for the "grant" from April onwards? Any advice appreciated.
  3. Got another quote from a different plumber. If I supply the new tank, drain down the old one and remove the header tank myself, he will fit and commision new tank for £400+vat. He said it would be an easy install as all pipes are in the right vacinity and its HW only (Direct). That's more the price I was thinking it would cost. Very tempted now.
  4. If I do get a new unvented hot water tank is there any way to measure the temp of the water inside? Are there wifi enabled sensors that can track the temp at several depths maybe? This site has unfortunately got me tracking every Watt I generate and use and next on the list might be tracking my HW usage and temperature. I thought I'd read something somewhere that some tanks come with pockets (?) that can have sensors attached. Did I dream this?
  5. Caddy

    Mr.

    I've done pretty much the same. 100mm PIR in a strip down the middle where I have flooring and 100mm+170mm loft insulation towards the eves where I don't need the height. Seemed the best comprimise to me at the time.
  6. Hello I have a question about meters and CU for Economy 7 tarifs. My E7 meter has a 3 tail output into a twin 100a switch unit. This then feeds 2 tails each to the main CU and what I pressume is an E7 only CU with only MCB's for an immersion element and a storage radiator. Does this mean when the E7 period starts only the secondary CU is fed at E7 rates and the main CU is still at "day" rate? Or does the total output from the meter change and both CU are running on E7 rate? Hope that makes sense. Thanks
  7. I think the building was pretty conventional barn to start with, it's the "conversion" that was interesting. Built next to the mill stream Corridor through building to get access to my front door. I have a single glazed window into said corridor...? I think this was the original door to my half of the building. You can see my neighbors front door with wellies outside. I think my original door was bricked up kind of when they added the porch to the back instead.
  8. Hello All I have made a few posts on this forum and thought it only polite to do an intro. I have moved into a 2 bed cottage in the countryside in August. It has been rented for the previous 20+ years and needs some maintenance and renovation. I will mainly be asking for some advice on improving my DHW and heating situation. Situation when I moved in: Small 2 bed cottage, 1 upstairs bathroom and 2 bedrooms, livingroom and kitchen downstairs. Thick solid stone walls but no insulation, slate roof with tatty 100mm of insulation in loft, ground floor is I think old flagstone covered in concrete skim and carpet. Property (and village) not on gas network. HW from direct vented system with electric shower. HW tank 2 immersion elements, bottom one on E7 (no timer) and top one manual switch. No boiler or wet central heating. Multifuel stove in livingroom and 1 old looking storage radiator in livingroom as well, not turned on. Convection heaters on wall in both bedrooms and bathroom. I live on my own and I work from home but a light user of electricity normally. Laptop use and cooking, washing up and shower daily. The house sits next to a mill stream with the stream virtually touching the foundations. Situation now: 3.6kW Solar PV system fitted a week ago, which powers the house during the day and heats my hot water (when solar is available). Top immersion element connected to E7 and water heated for last hour before day rate. Eddi diverter connected to bottom immersion element to soak up any spare kW during the day. This seems to be enough HW for me so far. Cleaned out all the old insulation in the loft and the dead mice and mouse s@*t. Replaced over my bedroom with 100mm PIR I got cheap from a mate who had bought too much with 170mm of loft insulation on top. Rest of the loft with 270mm loft insulation. New insulated loft hatch. Near furture: Connect second output on Eddi to towel rail in bathroom. Might get a bit of spare heat on the odd sunny day and will probably use timer a couple of times a day to try and stop any mould developing. Bathroom to be renovated next year. Try to reduce humidity. Currently normally in 70%+ range. Might be difficult with foundations sat in a stream (about 1.5m below floor level). Not sure how to do this, so probably a dehumidifier for the short to medium term. Try to figure out how to heat the house, but mainly my office (2nd bedrrom) during the day. I don't mind the cold and currently 12° as I write this and multifuel stove on a night if I can be bothered ligting it. 15-16° would be fine for me, always lived in cold houses. Electric rads, MVHR, not sure really. Any advice appreciated. Internal insulation on some walls. Can't go crazy as the rooms are small anyway but some internal walls are single skin brick backing into an un-heated access corridor through the house (strange layout). Not sure on best method. Remove plaster and dot and dab insulated plasterboard or battens and PIR/mineral wool inbetween? There is cold bridging everywhere. Check for air tightness. Potentially change HW system to un-vented cylinder to get rid of electric shower or keep vented system and fit inline pump for hot water. The tan I think the building was originally an apple store for a nearby apple mill and was probably built next to the stream to keep cool and dark. There are only 4 windows and 1 door in the property so getting a decent level of airtightness should be possible. The house does feel cold. It was nice in the summer when it stayed cool but it currently feels colder inside than outside on most days. The windows are all north facing so not much solar gain availible. Sorry for the long post,. An all electric house for HW and heating is the expensive option at the moment (my decent current tariff runs out in Feb, gulp) and any ideas for making this house as efficient and cost effective as possible would be much appreciated.
  9. @SteamyTea I agree with how you advised to set up my system and that is installed. The PV is fitted and the diverter is wired to the bottom element and the top element is fitted to the E7 feed. As suggested I would like to fit a timer to this secondary feed to turn on for the last hour of E7 to heat the top of the tank for the morning and let the PV heat the rest during the day if there is spare. I purchased a fused spur with built in electronic timer to control this but I may have run into a problem. My E7 comes from a split feed meter and the E7 feeds into a secondary smaller CU with 2 mcb's, for 1 HW element and 1 storage radiator and I pressume only comes live after 12am. Am I correct in thinking this would mean the timer would be running from the battery back up for 17 hrs a day to retain the time programing? The timer is a Timeguard FST77 and it says the built in battery retains the programs for 720 hrs, but I'm not sure if it's designed to be used in this way, going on to battery backup every day. Maybe a mechanical timer would be better?
  10. The only potentially awkward part of this install could be routing of the drain for the pressure valves to the outside. I could do this myself in advance to save time (and money). Is this just a run of solvent weld jointed 20mm plastic pipe? I know it has to be to a low level drain so you are not potentially shooting hot water out of an upstairs drain and burning someone.
  11. I think it's worse than that. I could get a quality 200l tank for ~£500 easily. No central heating connection required, HW only direct. The quote is so high it makes me think they don't want the job and so priced it to fail.
  12. Just got my first quote for an Joule 200l unvented direct cylinder fitting, £2800. Looks like it will be vented and and pump after all. Wow....
  13. Wonder is this one is dumb enough? https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/epph5w/electriq-epph5w?refsource=apadwords&mkwid=sl5VMKE2X_dc&pcrid=444691871515&product=EPPH5W&pgrid=101649716086&ptaid=pla-840173355027&channel=googlesearch&gclid=Cj0KCQiAys2MBhDOARIsAFf1D1doTUTYmvlbiuYfXgMEwJCQwUOCDByAq1RZ8sumAb7JISkFddn9MHIaAuVmEALw_wcB#!#maindesc No mention of Lot 20.
  14. Just had a quick chat with tech support at Myenergi about this. The problem seems to be new electric equipment having to be Lot20 complient. and the use of open window sensors and other modern energy saving tech in these heaters. This equipment need a 240v constant feed for the heaters to work and it would be rare to get this from the spare solar PV. The Eddi would work with older heaters with mechanical thermostats and timers that work with a purely resistive load. I think this is what someone mention to me before in another thread. The Eddi can be made to run with electric underfloor heating though still apparently. Some things are currently not Lot 20 complient like towel rails. Maybe I just fit a towel rail in my office, lol.
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