markc

Self levelling? Or adjustable? Dealt with (take up and relay after getting machines in) loads of pedestal floors but can’t see how a self levelling one would work

Glassandstainless.com is my go-to place for bespoke toughened glass

People can be very strange, woman being interviewed yesterday said any price rise would probably mean she would freeze or starve, but she also admitted to smoking 40 cigarettes a day which must cost more than her energy usage

@Russell griffiths think the build up is sips between joists or rafters rather than on the top. We erected the Sips “Oyster House” at the ideal home ex many years ago and that was all done with sips infills in a glulam grid structure

Cold tarmac is ok for patching a small hole or around a access or inspection cover but it does not set like hot lay stuff does. That said, most users of cold lay set themselves up to fail by not prepping the holes, get rid of any mud and loose stuff, good priming with bituminous paint or better still roofing compound to give the tarmac change to get hold of the hole.

Good morning and welcome, if you have a plot then you are already onto a good start

Bit of water in bottom, fill up with dry stuff to top, if two bags then ok, poke some holes into dry mix, pour water into holes, poke a bit more and let it set

It’s postcrete, it’s dry. If you want to use it like wet pour concrete then put it in a tub or on a board, as some water and mix up till it’s like thick rice pudding, stuff in hole and wait a bit. Note as it’s postcrete so sets very quick …. Mix quick and get it in, or put in dry, add water and poke and prod a bit to mix up.

That will do nicely

Nothing wrong there

Haha, I like your way of thinking

Top one, technically you don’t need a dpm under the insulation unless you are using wool or some other absorbent insulation

Too big or too small? That is the question

Pretty much any tape will do, duct tape works really well, as does wide insulating tape

If I’m understanding the question correctly then No right or wrong way, all you are doing is stopping concrete or screed from going down any gaps, 1 to prevent possible cold spots and 2 to prevent sagging or low spots as the runny stuff seeps away.

All the above is good advice, what many customers do not appreciate is how much risk the supplier is taking especially with bespoke manufacture and taking up large time slots. worst position to be in is supplying a building, putting it up and then the client says they can’t/won’t pay for it knowing you won’t take it back down. so yes, negotiate the percentages as much as you can but please see it from the suppliers point of view too, good business is a win win situation

Sorry my mistake, I was using my phone and didn’t see the the sketch with 22mm decking, got it into my head that to save space and floor build up you were using the pug mix like a screed.

Hi, if you don’t have to force the water in one direction I.e away from a wall then you can slightly raise the centre of the area, sort of a very slight hump in the centre so water runs off in any direction. if you are using whole slabs then yes you can start in a corner, most pavers and tilers have a set size so starting in the centre gives even cuts around the outside edge. it is always easiest to start at the highest point tho regardless of where the slope runs and work your way downhill

Yes wacker the soil if it has been disturbed, in an ideal world you remove the top without disturbing anything. 1:80 is really aimed at soil pipes and drains to ensure they take “solids” with them. as this is a patio and away from your house then it can effectively be level, but a small crest in the centre is a good thing to prevent pooling. sequence remove any loose soil, vegetation etc. Lay out the working area, wacker the area throw in some sub base … type 1 etc and give it a good compacting, add more type1 and wack again bring up to your level. using a spirit level and straight edge level the surface and ideally give a bit of fall to the edges. laying slabs is just like tiling, start with centre and work outwards, mortar should be 5 or 6 sharp sand to 1 cement, fairly soft mix. some good vids on YouTube regarding laying slabs as it’s easier to watch than explain.

Yes, get on with it! Main thing here is compaction to prevent settlement later on. hire a wacker plate go over it a few times, spread the type1, plenty more wacker ing and you are sorted

Cracks in render don’t look bad at all, think surveyor is just covering their ar@#. roof sag is due to tiles being fitted in place of slates which are much lighter. as the house has been stood there for over 100 years without serious cracks etc. I wouldn’t be concerned. I once had to argue with a surveyor who put a concern regarding the fast growing big conifer in garden … actually a Sycamore that had been there for around 100 or so years

Gym on top floor and above a big bedroom? The noise and vibration will be horrendous. I reckon the staircases will feel dark and cramped. The whole design comes across as trying to get everything in even if that means compromising what it will be like to live in.

Good morning and welcome, what are you good at? And what do you do already? anyone can put paint on … except me, I hate it. Laying a patio is pretty straight forward. Electrics, plumbing and structures need to be left to the pro’s. but, if you are reasonably fit then you can act as a labourer and save some money that way

Morning, yes I’ve done loads of patios, driveways. It all depends on the ground you are working with, many pavements were laid with slabs directly on the ground without any base, most new builds have patios with slabs laid directly on whatever ground they have. Are you working on clay, sand, peat, infill ? These all have a bearing on what you need to do. I wasn’t saying 50mm is ok for everything but you are not laying a road or driveway or say a base for a oil or water storage tank. Dig a small hole and post a pic to show the ground conditions

Sub base depends on ground you have and load that will be applied. Remove the vegetation layer (turf, weeds, roots etc) as that will shrink and swell, also to reduce stuff growing back. Lay a geotextile sheet and your 50mm type1 etc will be plenty for a small patio