markc

Just tried turning mine down a bit with shower running at its usual setting, still ok at 65 ish but lower and it’s on and off with burner surging which will definitely decrease efficiency

Yes it’s a combi, old railway property, cellar, no cavity walls etc. so boiler is big to give enough heat for radiators but I also found turning water temp down guzzled gas and figured the lower temp was causing cycling instead of keeping burner running

Now there’s an interesting situation, so your garage is not attached to your house but is to your neighbours. definitely party wall agreement but in addition I would question what you will use the space for? Honest opinion is that you will struggle to get change of use on this, but I could be wrong. how well do you get on with the neighbours?

@Capable Noob nothing at all on the drawings to indicate a footing spec?

Hi, confused with the title and question. Are you looking to insulate a loft or do something with a cellar?

Hello and welcome, a few questions recent y regarding retaining walls so I am sure your knowledge will be welcome and in demand.

I would go for a 4 or even 6mm cable, very little difference in price so might as well be over spec. To allow for extra sockets/lights etc to be added on later. assuming you don’t have big machines in the workshop in which case 10mm.

Cold water taps should not be supplied from a tank. The tank should be fed from cold water and is there to keep a boiler and cylinder full. as for temp of water, I have found my boiler works best, shower heats up quickly and my bills appeared to reduce when I upped the water temp to 70. I love my showers, at least one every day, sometimes 2 but not home everyday so let’s say 30 per month. No heating on at moment and last month my gas was £12 so showers costing me 40p each. sorry, correction … £12.53 for the month

Evens! Every action has an equal and opposite, pity most people are just greedy and want everything now. .. short term gain means long term pain

ASHP are not a simple “do I replace my gas/oil boiler for a ashp”? Question. in a new build it is much easier but changing over is going to cost more (and even more if you want a grant towards it)

Oh yes! 1st fix electrics aren’t too bad on I’s but pozi’s make plumbing or conduit (protected fire alarm cables) runs so much easier

Think this is more to prevent liquid water discharge (some strange regs) as opposed to something the boiler needs to operate well/efficiently.

Joist selection comes down to span, floor loading, bounce, sound transfer plus ease/practicality of installation of services etc. assuming the span is pretty average then solid joists are the easiest and cheapest for a small job. Cutting out big holes can be done but then moving to I’s or pozi’s is easier. I joists can be fabricated on site or local joiners shop pretty easily, just add a percentage over factory produced spec as tolerances and glue is often better and more controlled.

Good luck 🤞

+1 door dpm is usually turned up to prevent any water coming under the door going any further. Just make sure any of the dpm outside is turned down or trimmed off and that the cap under the door is sealed

90m radius with a concrete skip is a very very big crane, helicopter would be cheaper

Yes it will be fine, if using water based glue it’s better and easier to wet the ply or OSB first so the timber doesn’t suck moisture out of the adhesive too quickly

If you can’t pay a builder who will do the work? there are loads of consultants but probably much more than a general builder. no way to give any more detailed advice without knowing what’s involved, site restrictions, loads involved etc etc

Line pumping is “OK” for trench and bulk base filling but walls need to be done in lots of smaller layers and moving/holding the trunk would be horrendous and end up with lots of waste. if access is poor you need to rule out ICF and Sips as these need truck sized equipment.

600x600 beams is in the realms of multi story car park simply supported main beams, let alone ground beams. SE first, don’t build in problems and big overspends

Background or Ambient noise levels in what most people would deem a fairly quiet area is often around 65-70dB

Assuming your floor finish will be tiles or wood then very little lateral load on an internal wall as the floor finish will hold it in place. Good ole Ct1/OB1 etc will do nicely. and as the sole plate is above screed and UFH etc then no real need for DPC

For solid wood flooring then acclimatising or normalising is important, laminate it doesn’t really matter unless it’s coming from a sub zero warehouse into a hot dry room. During its life the material will likely experience wide temperature and humidity swings anyway. Main thing is to lay the packs down on a flat surface, do not stand up against a wall etc. in a commercial install the floor often goes from truck to laid within hours

Damp proofing companies always “tut and suck” then sell you whatever treatment you will buy regardless of wether you need it or not. A lot of “surveyors” are failed builders who know just enough to be dangerous and will always err on the side of caution in case you try to sue them. get a decent local builder to take a look (offering to pay for their time) to give you an honest opinion of the affected area and what the cause could be.

No real problem doing that, if you get any large weeds growing in the new excavation then dig them out. Water isn’t a problem