markc

The G-String technique … I like it.

No problem, just seen the red circle, keep the drill as small as possible and you will be fine. The amount you are removing is minimal and you are very close to heal anyway. Get on with it.

@Thorfun drilling down you are taking material from CSA however it is minimal and it is close to the truss heal. Drill down to around half depth and the effect will be negligible (removing material from compression area while maintaining tension material). Seems like a good plan

Cross drilling on the centreline of a cord will have virtually no impact of its integrity. Same with drilling holes in centreline of a beam

Me too Doh, too late

Squirty foam is unlikely to travel right through or even to centre, you could try some 10mm(ish) foam sheet and push it in with a steel rule or similar. this is one of those “I wish I had thought of it before” jobs

Octopus variable (call it flex or something) always stay in credit so they keep me on best rate available.

So this has already been built! You really ought to go back to the architect. The bulk of your insulation is doing very little due to the joists sitting in 100mm of cold air.

We sell construction, arboricultural and railway cherry pickers and we can’t buy red diesel anymore.

Far too many variables to make a direct comparison especially with an unknown timber beam. also a 152x152 UC is a horrendously big lump for 1.4 metres.

In real terms Gabion walls are (can be) a very cheap alternative, they are easy to place, no brickies no shuttering and no concrete pour plus a complete novice can fill with stones and make a respectable dry stone wall look retaining wall.

I’m not a plumber but no pressure system is perfect. If you were having to top the system up every few weeks then I would be concerned. On a new system air pockets work their way around causing fluctuations, if you top up now I would imagine it will stay pretty constant

If not seen then size and shape of the dam/shutter can be anything

No, unless it’s going to be on show then you batter the edges etc to make it neat

Easier to drill and counterbore the timber first, then drill straight through into the wall, blow holes out, get any packers ready, have a cup of tea, fill the holes and get the rods in.

Grout just has to fill the void under the plate. Use sand or mud to build a dam around the plate with an inch or so extra then when you pour the grout it can fully fill the void without trapping air , fill up to top of plate and the extra reservoir will account for any settling.

Gas! Holy crap 🙈

Yes you can assume right is right etc. more difficult when there are two pots and they are in-line not side by side. I would be looking at the capped off one too and maybe getting a vent cap put on instead of it being blocked off. capping needs some work/typing anyway so might as well sort it while you/they are there

Either is ok as the two parts tend to stay apart until part way up nozzle

Chemical isn’t an exact science, amount of resin depends on hole diameter and diameter of the rod you are sticking in it. Assuming 16mm rod then hole should be 18mm so roughly half full would give sufficient fill plus some squeeze out. taking nozzle off and clean end of tube to keep remaining resin from going off. put a bit of squeeze out to one side and you will see how fast it goes off and becomes very hard. hole cleanliness and good mixer nozzles are the key to secure fixing. don’t stress over it, drill the holes, put piece in place, squeeze resin in and twist fixing into hole … counter clockwise ideally as this causes threads to push resin deep into hole

As above, you never know what’s going to happen, I’ve seen walls and roof structures go over, drains collapsed by excavators and tele handlers plus countless subbie accidents.

No way to tell if a liner is good quality or not, just buy from a reputable source. It is not in a suppliers best interest to supply crappy materials or items but seconds do get sold on eBay etc. last time I needed some sealer strip I googled stove door seal and found the stuff I needed

Good morning, at 2.6m I would be going for a lintel, no need for a beam. Birtley do a good range of lintels for timber frame plus blockwork but a quick search will pull up suitable products.

@zoothorn if you are putting timber in place then no need to wedge the threaded rod unless it will always be seen so you need it looking perfect. most chem fix will be hard in an hour to tighten nut (check on tube). If you are unsure, spin nut on finger tight, set all the other anchors then come back and tighten everything up after a day or so.