markc

Pir or insulated plasterboard could both be glued but if surface finish isn’t that important then I would go for extra insulation thickness. When hot the heat will still come through but will take longer.

Oops, someone fitting an extractor and didn’t think to keep it away from a door or window

Good morning and welcome

Hangers will be fine even just face nailed, the hanger would tear before a hanger nail would shear.

Russell bet me to a similar answer, first thought was something like a car port but the last bit suggests a part of the house. We can offer advice and ideas but it sounds like you need some proper professional input

As above, and to add, if I’m picturing the detail correctly then then his proposal would be more than adequate to take the loads but as it’s unconventional the BCO will likely want a SE sign off

External pocket doors are pretty straightforward and quite common in warmer climates. Biggest problem would be achieving an acceptable (draught proof) seal around the pocket and how thick your wall would have to be to achieve a decent insulation performance.

The G-String technique … I like it.

No problem, just seen the red circle, keep the drill as small as possible and you will be fine. The amount you are removing is minimal and you are very close to heal anyway. Get on with it.

@Thorfun drilling down you are taking material from CSA however it is minimal and it is close to the truss heal. Drill down to around half depth and the effect will be negligible (removing material from compression area while maintaining tension material). Seems like a good plan

Cross drilling on the centreline of a cord will have virtually no impact of its integrity. Same with drilling holes in centreline of a beam

Me too Doh, too late

Squirty foam is unlikely to travel right through or even to centre, you could try some 10mm(ish) foam sheet and push it in with a steel rule or similar. this is one of those “I wish I had thought of it before” jobs

Octopus variable (call it flex or something) always stay in credit so they keep me on best rate available.

So this has already been built! You really ought to go back to the architect. The bulk of your insulation is doing very little due to the joists sitting in 100mm of cold air.

We sell construction, arboricultural and railway cherry pickers and we can’t buy red diesel anymore.

Far too many variables to make a direct comparison especially with an unknown timber beam. also a 152x152 UC is a horrendously big lump for 1.4 metres.

In real terms Gabion walls are (can be) a very cheap alternative, they are easy to place, no brickies no shuttering and no concrete pour plus a complete novice can fill with stones and make a respectable dry stone wall look retaining wall.

I’m not a plumber but no pressure system is perfect. If you were having to top the system up every few weeks then I would be concerned. On a new system air pockets work their way around causing fluctuations, if you top up now I would imagine it will stay pretty constant

If not seen then size and shape of the dam/shutter can be anything

No, unless it’s going to be on show then you batter the edges etc to make it neat

Easier to drill and counterbore the timber first, then drill straight through into the wall, blow holes out, get any packers ready, have a cup of tea, fill the holes and get the rods in.

Grout just has to fill the void under the plate. Use sand or mud to build a dam around the plate with an inch or so extra then when you pour the grout it can fully fill the void without trapping air , fill up to top of plate and the extra reservoir will account for any settling.

Gas! Holy crap 🙈