markc

Savings can always be made but what are you wanting the roof to look like? And what about future maintenance etc. also depends on roof design, shape and angle etc.

I’m struggling to understand the question

What’s under the floor? Seems a shame to go EWI, UFH and no floor insulation. If it’s just a void how about taking out the wooden floor and filling in with plenty of insulation and screed with UFH.

Chicken wire or similar mesh, scrunch up into a ball shape and push into the pipe. Rat proof, easy to pull out and clean/check and no fixings to rust or seize.

Yes, visqueen or similar sheet material

I was in middle of editing my post as it was clearer in my head than on page, if packing then definitely put down a sheet membrane as it’s cheap, easy and peace of mind. Liquid is over the top and messy

If the floor will be suspended then a liquid dpm is pointless as no physical contact will be made. if the insulation would be sitting on the concrete then I would be doing as Nod says and just using a sheet membrane

Just tried turning mine down a bit with shower running at its usual setting, still ok at 65 ish but lower and it’s on and off with burner surging which will definitely decrease efficiency

Yes it’s a combi, old railway property, cellar, no cavity walls etc. so boiler is big to give enough heat for radiators but I also found turning water temp down guzzled gas and figured the lower temp was causing cycling instead of keeping burner running

Now there’s an interesting situation, so your garage is not attached to your house but is to your neighbours. definitely party wall agreement but in addition I would question what you will use the space for? Honest opinion is that you will struggle to get change of use on this, but I could be wrong. how well do you get on with the neighbours?

@Capable Noob nothing at all on the drawings to indicate a footing spec?

Hi, confused with the title and question. Are you looking to insulate a loft or do something with a cellar?

Hello and welcome, a few questions recent y regarding retaining walls so I am sure your knowledge will be welcome and in demand.

I would go for a 4 or even 6mm cable, very little difference in price so might as well be over spec. To allow for extra sockets/lights etc to be added on later. assuming you don’t have big machines in the workshop in which case 10mm.

Cold water taps should not be supplied from a tank. The tank should be fed from cold water and is there to keep a boiler and cylinder full. as for temp of water, I have found my boiler works best, shower heats up quickly and my bills appeared to reduce when I upped the water temp to 70. I love my showers, at least one every day, sometimes 2 but not home everyday so let’s say 30 per month. No heating on at moment and last month my gas was £12 so showers costing me 40p each. sorry, correction … £12.53 for the month

Evens! Every action has an equal and opposite, pity most people are just greedy and want everything now. .. short term gain means long term pain

ASHP are not a simple “do I replace my gas/oil boiler for a ashp”? Question. in a new build it is much easier but changing over is going to cost more (and even more if you want a grant towards it)

Oh yes! 1st fix electrics aren’t too bad on I’s but pozi’s make plumbing or conduit (protected fire alarm cables) runs so much easier

Think this is more to prevent liquid water discharge (some strange regs) as opposed to something the boiler needs to operate well/efficiently.

Joist selection comes down to span, floor loading, bounce, sound transfer plus ease/practicality of installation of services etc. assuming the span is pretty average then solid joists are the easiest and cheapest for a small job. Cutting out big holes can be done but then moving to I’s or pozi’s is easier. I joists can be fabricated on site or local joiners shop pretty easily, just add a percentage over factory produced spec as tolerances and glue is often better and more controlled.

Good luck 🤞

+1 door dpm is usually turned up to prevent any water coming under the door going any further. Just make sure any of the dpm outside is turned down or trimmed off and that the cap under the door is sealed

90m radius with a concrete skip is a very very big crane, helicopter would be cheaper

Yes it will be fine, if using water based glue it’s better and easier to wet the ply or OSB first so the timber doesn’t suck moisture out of the adhesive too quickly

If you can’t pay a builder who will do the work? there are loads of consultants but probably much more than a general builder. no way to give any more detailed advice without knowing what’s involved, site restrictions, loads involved etc etc