markc

Sounds cheap to me

Well said! It’s bad enough doing detailed quotes and then not getting the work but how many people are happy to carry out work and then not get paid with the client using an excuse like I’m going to get someone else to finish it

Handrail-less glass does have some give but it’s the glass in the channel that moves, your channel is not fixed correctly. BCO, scaffold, temporary works, surveyor etc. should all refuse to accept that.

I bought an old house that had been empty for a year, thick solid walls and cellar etc. probably took around 18 months of over heating it to dry it out properly. now my heating bills are pretty low considering it’s an ex railway property.

If they did the design then yes they own the IPR (intellectual Property Rights). If you build the house but with different materials then they have a good case to stop you or want the design fees. Changing a couple of bits is not scrapping their ideas and doing something different. if you do want to use their layout and general appearance then I would be approaching them and asking for a settlement on the design costs.

Solutions aside, if a part of the new should tie in/line up with existing then that should have been your starting and setting out point, not and Archi drawing.

Don’t worry about it. Loads of armoured cables in industrial sites that are encased in concrete, tarmac etc. as for differential movement, unless you have a big localised shear move then it will be no problem. Armoured cable will stretch without and compress without issue. Unless you hit it with a digger or pick it’s going to outlive you and many more generations to follow

Put 2 hand saws together, bolt through hanging hole at the tip and a clamp near the handles to pull blades together, odd to use but does the job

If you upped the section sizes by 50% then you would be pretty safe with BC for reclaimed or non marked timber but then you have to look at the aesthetics, cost of bigger timbers and additional loads so often costs much more to use reclaimed. I used to build some pretty big roof trusses and the mention of reclaimed pretty much doubled the price.

If it’s short cycling what temp do you have water and heating (boiler temp) set at. A week or so ago a couple of us were discussing this as we had both found that upping the temps to stop short cycling resulted in a big fuel saving, these are gas boilers not oil but principal is the same. a big boiler will not be very efficient or effective if it isn’t running hard enough so reducing jets/burners can often be false economy.

How are you determining it is oversized? Is it constantly firing and then turning off again pretty quickly? Or are you calculating it is oversized

I would contact planning, speak to someone and see what they think or feel. Have a couple of photos and your proposal to replace with something that isn’t an eyesore and rubbish collecting area and you may find they are happy with you to get on with it. If they do want a formal application then ask what they will expect as a minimum.

Why would you need to spend hundred or thousands on a planning application? As you are not looking to make it any bigger etc. take a few pics and put those in with the application …. A couple of hours of your time.

I would put an application in, can’t see it being refused and then you know everything is above board and there will be no complaints or objections (it’s amazing how complainers come out of nowhere when they see someone getting something nice

@ProDave bet me to it, I was thinking exactly the same, as it’s been there a long time already a replacement “nicer” structure would be an improvement.

Got to agree with @SimonD here, if you go IWI any internal walls that are not insulated will take heat out past the insulation, plus you are going to loose a lot of internal space to get anything like the same insulation level as doing external. If you have a stone or aesthetic exterior then IWI would be a consideration, otherwise wrap the building in a blanket.

Stud extractors are great for sheared or broken off bolts etc. but if rusted in then you are looking at drilling and tapping a new thread or using self tappers for refitting the cover

Doesn’t appear to be protruding at the bottom so I would say the wall is just out of plumb, or the wall leaned back and the new bit should have followed it

Electric UFH is not like wet. Water running through pipes is at a constant temperature and limits floor temp. Electric heater wire does not self regulate so anything left on the floor creates local hot spots (ask my cat).

We used to use a similar design to this for steel and timber connection. Look really good and not difficult to fabricate.

I remember the first Nissan Cabstar we got will hill assist, we fitted a crane to it. I took it to do a demo, parked on a hill, got out and put the jacks down and performed the lift perfectly. Problem occurred when I lifted the jacks again and the “auto brakes” were now not engaged and the truck set off down the hill. Luckily I jumped in the cab and stopped it before hitting anything

Def local fabricator then get them galvanised, or you could use stainless of course

Totally agree

Normally yes I agree but I’m thinking the sketch shows a stud wall and probably OSB sheathed making the frame above the door very rigid (no lintel) take that away and you are/could be loading the top midspan of the door frame. unless the sketch is indicative and there is supposed to be a lintel/door header.

Absolutely, but you will probably end up with cold bridges around a house anyway, door handles is the most common as the handles are metal and the turn bar is one piece of steel. Very few door handle sets are thermally broken