markc

No real need to stick it to the wall, but for ease (stop it falling over onto the slab etc) a few dabs of grab adhesive or you could use roofing adhesive/sealant etc.

Talk to another company, also send a sample in for your own benefit. It’s probably cement board so only precautions are don’t smash it, don’t grind it, wear a decent mask and it must be put into closed bags and taken to disposal site (informing them what you have).

Hi, I was thinking for someone to pop in and get you 2-4 metres under the porch with you digging access pits beforehand. Everything under the path is definitely open trench or you are looking at a lot of money

Hi, yes you will have to excavate the connections. Moving and dragging are very different. Mole is usually air powered, starts from a excavated hole and basically hammers it’s way through soil and pops out in another excavated hole at the other side of the road etc. dragging is used where there is an existing clay or iron in larger machines, a cable or chain is passed through the existing pipe and a winch pulls a cone shaped ‘buster’ through and a new pipe behind it. if the length to be busted is only a few metres we did one with a home made cone, length of chain, taped the new pipe behind the cone and pulled it through with a mini digger. But if you allow 800-1000 for someone to do it you won’t be far out … speak to someone at your local utilities contractors or council depot, they always know “someone”

If it was just a straight pipe a drag buster and pull in new pipe would be most cost effective way to save the path but still not cheap. Your big problem is the two connections as these cannot be done without access. I would sacrifice the path to save the porch (assuming the pipe isn’t concreted in you will be able to get a new pipe under the porch by digging access pits either side. not easy to price but a gang of 2 with a digger should do it in 3-4 days depending on access and obstacles etc.

Good morning and welcome, and yes that definitely an unusual bungalow

M10 is 8.5mm tapping drill. If you don’t already have a hole in the stud then spot the centre (needs to be very close) then drill something like 5mm then open up. Problem with cast iron is that it machines and drills very easily and drill bit will want to break out of the side of the stud and go through the iron instead. Chucks do not need the grooves so unless you are drilling accurate holes then a bit of wobble isn’t an issue for most jobs.

Remove the panel it’s fitted to and do away with it or put it inside the opening instead of outside. Watch out for bare terminals behind that could touch the metalwork

I doubt you will need PP but if it’s not done right it will not last long. If water can get under the tarmac it will soon break up and come away in sheets/chunks

It can (and does) happen where damp is ‘sucked’ inwards by the dots and dabs, but why is the wall cold and damp? Is it a new build that hasn’t dried out or an old existing cold wall? As long as the wall is now dry, throwing plenty of heat into the build will sort it out but if there is a source of damp in the wall then it will continue and spread

There is the APF - Assos. Of Prof Foresters

Wall should be fine, plaster shouldn’t go right to floor, neither should plasterboard if it’s a stud wall.

Looks great, had to look twice at the toilet roll holder on bottom pic … thought it was an odd placed door handle or flush

If skirts are MDF then rip them out, pine or hardwood and they will be ok. if water is coming up through grout then there must be voids under the tiles and it will cause problems with the floor or just start to smell or start mould growing on the grout lines

Multi tool, use edge of the blade and plane away the high spots - this way you don’t get fine sanding dust and much better than chipping away any humps.

Is it the whole house that feels cold or just downstairs? Reason I ask is that a couple of years ago my soon to be mother in law constantly complained her house was freezing and it was the kitchen floor sucking heat away, the house was actually ok but you felt cold because your feet were cold. Dug floor up, insulated and relayed and the house has been completely different since. if the loft is well insulated chucking that much heat in should have the upstairs fairly hot. my house has no cavity, I like 18 degrees when I’m home but I don’t use much gas at all, but I don’t work from home.

I couldn’t sort mine through the hole and neither could plumber so I ended up pulling the top off

Access from behind, or if not possible then a boxed out area to mount on with a removable lid.

Yes, double sides sticky foam pads work well too, had a similar problem with a mirror that rattled when the door was opened or closed, resilient material dampens the sound and being sticky stopped the mirror moving.

203x203x46 UC is a substantial column with a massive load bearing capacity, they must be there for something other than supporting a garage door. assuming this is a really good, heavily insulated garage door, it is likely to weigh around 300kgs which is nothing compared to the structure and occupancy. so my feeling is your builder is talking rubbish and omitting two large UC columns is going to affect much more than just being able to have a garage door.

Think of a number, double it and add a bit more. many years ago building costs were roughly 1/3 plot, 1/3 build costs and 1/3 profit or saving, now the plot can cost way more than 1/2 the finished value

Agree with the above, having set and tested literally thousands of chem anchors (plus had hundreds checked and signed off by Hilti) I’ve learned a lot. embedment is very important, hole cleaning and effective mixing are musts. I always spin the rods in backwards (drill running anti-clockwise) so the threads are pushing and mixing rather than pulling the resin out - this is especially important with glass tube systems because the tube forms part of the anchor - I have seen ground workers breaking the tubes and pouring the contents into holes 🙈. but chem anchors are convenient and when set correctly (in a sound and suitable concrete/stone/block etc) are only surpassed by cast in caged Holding down bolts

Hi and welcome, always good to see people not wanting to build a box, but as many on here will say, anything other than a box costs extra. a good few members have built basements so lots of information available in past posts and threads.

This sounds like a blocked chimney, not necessarily an install problem. Birds nest in the cowl? Very possible if it hasn’t been lit for 6 months

You can stick to your guns and force some changes to made, or a gutter oversailing isn’t the biggest problem in the world and you could point out it’s not right, but you can live with it.