markc

If woodworking then a decent reusable especially for MDF. For plasterboard and other demolition type dusts then disposable as you will go through lots of them

Yes you could get heave, but you WILL have a tree falling sooner or later.

Electric arc furnaces have water cooled cables … very strange to be bolting a massive connection (12 x m16 bolts) and then coupling the water pipes up that flow water down the centre and around the conductor to keep it all cool.

+1 tried tested and approved sump systems are not that expensive

Last week, labour only to membrane, batten and tile a bungalow. Lowest quote £4200, highest £27,500 🤪 now some variance is to be expected but this is ridiculous

Why would it be the solicitors fault, I’ve never seen a solicitor come out to check fence positions during a sale

Hi and welcome

Not really, if you were framing it all with 3x2 then it would be incredibly flimsy and fragile, but a decent framed wall with tight joints is surprisingly stiff and once you have some plan bracing in they will stand up to knocks are high winds

8m walls are no problem with staggered joints on top and Sill plates. Temporary prop if it’s really windy until you get a central truss or joist in to brace against.

Difficult to say without length of run, trial pit and site specific but I would work on £1k-£2K /m with a minimum £6k to cover enabling works. (Haven’t done any commercially, only F&F in last 6 or so years).

True, thing is, if you can’t get to each cell then you have little chance of recovering a pack

Tantalised timber 😊

This is what we use to bring cells back up.

Sarnafil is easy and pretty indestructible

Council house a few hundred yards from my mum, family always complaining house was damp and windows misted up. … they had laid turf in a bedroom for the dogs! I dread to imagine what the house smelled like

Corbelled brick and stone (no strip concrete underneath) are the worst and have to be done in short sections, less than 1m to cast a strip footing to support the individual bricks/stones and then excavate again under those if extra depth is needed. With deeper existing strip footings, 2m sections are possible with props for peace of mind. cast the new section approx 10mm low and then hand pack with firm expanding grout to prevent settlement.

As above, and if not damaged they can be brought back up slowly with a variable power supply. Our customers often ‘forget’ to charge their machines for extended periods and we can usually recover the Cells over a few days getting the voltage up to where the charger will recognise the cell and kick in.

Find a local saw mill, they are your best bet

Yes, not the nicest job, mini digger with bucket on backwards helps

I don’t have a display

Very nice

Don’t all smart meters connect through the property Wi-Fi ? my octopus meter does … well occasionally but I don’t monitor it anyway

I’ve seen injection done under large slabs to re level and it worked well (drive and pathway). But it is still under pinning but without the tried and tested methods of excavate and replace with known quantities of concrete and bearing dimensions etc. I’ve been involved on some big stabilisation projects but I would not use this under walls etc as the bearing surface etc. is unknown. Yes it might work, but for how long?

Without digging (no pun intended) for information on the product/process, am I right in thinking this is a soil stabilisation process by injecting a “substance” that then solidifies? If so then I would be very sceptical for future insurance or mortgage purposes as it is effectively underpinning.

Yes lay the slab in the extension first, tell the ground worker the plan so shear connectors can be included in the slab ready for next pour. When it comes to the screed do all the lot in one go.