markc

I agree with @Bonner that’s been added later as a room divider

We buy a lot from RS and they have just introduced the £30 min for free delivery on us. Previously we used the no minimum order value to get components to customers quickly but now we have to send them from here

I really don’t know, I ask myself this question regularly. The heat stops condensation and makes it more comfortable but yes the vapour is still there, dehumidifiers would also generate heat …

The “new improved” soon becomes the norm and people expect more. I grew up in a council house with a coal fire, no central heating and single glazed steel windows … in winter there was often ice on the inside of the windows but we survived. Now anyone not able to keep their central heating on is vulnerable and going to die.

I tried the white 20mm wide draught excluder foam but it turned yellow very quickly, does the job but between white skirts and oak floor I can’t unsee it.

And now it sounds like a biology lesson 😉

Interesting, I have no idea why but it does only occur with softer nylons, cast nylon6 and 66 are not too bad and Delron seems pretty unaffected but these are all engineering materials. The softer general purpose nylon bar and sheet seem to absorb the WD and surface 0.5mm or so swell .

Morning, there are many buildings out there with roofs 100’s of years old so it’s difficult to put a timeline on things. When you look at what a roof has to endure you start to appreciate why some fail sooner than others. wind, rain, snow, orientation, pitch, airborne salt, sand etc. moss … if moss gets hold around slates they soon start to crumble. any photos so we can give you an idea of condition?

So true, similarly nylon swells with WD40 causes us loads of problems with sliding collars on air and hydraulic cylinders and interlocks when people blather them in WD40

A cheap laser thermometer would give you loads of info and pinpoint where the cold spots are. Get one, draw a sketch of the house and go around noting the temps (try to do them all within a short time) and post them on here. @j_s bet me to it

That sounds about right, asked a few of our tree surgeon customers and they are wanting around £135 per cube.

Dry sanding with dust collection is your best bet, if you wet sand plaster it will run down the wall and set again. You can hire dustless sanding machines also called drywall sanders.

No way! I can understand them wanting the sum that would have been paid when on site and a disruption fee if install team were delayed at last minute but a storage fee is taking the p1%#.

As Peter said, has to be PVA primer. You will always be able to chip it off if you try but lifting in sheets is a big no-no, over time it would crumble and bits would find their way into voids as the floor lifted resulting in high spots and a horrible crunching noise when walked on. Take up anything that’s loose or sounds hollow if talking it all up is proving difficult

If the slab was very cold I could see the SLC crazing but would (should) still stick. did they lay it over a dusty slab? I reckon the flood has done you a favour as this would rear its head in the near future anyway. as above, rip it up and start again

Just need a Tricorder .. (Trekkies know what I mean) .. couple of buttons and a few flashing leds but somehow it displays anything in great detail.

Temperature swings in a garage or shed along with prolonged periods of closed doors makes condensation inevitably. I keep two oil filled heaters on thermostats in my garage to protect my lathe, milling machine and big table saw.

Yes I’ve had this one, at least you have an open slot to get through and should be able to wiggle the bolt back enough to get door open (failing that angle grinder). I had to drill out an anti snap euro cylinder to get a door open and it was a pig of a job.

That’s madness, digger for a few hours and dig a couple/three holes. These can double up as percolation test holes if organised and located properly.

As above, plus I’m a bit confused regarding your dilemma, are you thinking the lines/corners may not be straight or square? If so this needs sorting now. If it’s your perception of the position “in space” then it may well be all in your head. Buildings never look right when the founds are dug … ohh it’s small, thought it would be bigger, feels odd etc. etc. this changes completely when walls are up.

Haven’t seen anything specifically like that but I mounted similarly using a big adjustable mount that had two folding arms to allow it to pull out and turn either way, if both arms unfolded then it would reach the side. Bear in mind the fixings and cantilever load mounting from one side. These loads on the fixing will be many times that of centrally mounting.

Not an overheating risk through a few inches of foam, burying long runs of cables in insulation prevents heat dissipation but copper being a very good conductor of heat you won’t have any issues as any heat will soon be lost either side of a foam plugged hole

+1 on the foam, might (won’t) look pretty but will work

Impossible to determine unless you know the stair design (depth and angle of stringer) and floor levels. If you have the stair design or drawing then it’s easy to mock up on site

No problem using for cabling except that access is difficult and you will be extending runs considerably to get into the chimney. Running heating pipes is also not a good idea as any heat lost would be better keeping the rooms warm, not an old chimney