markc

Still far too many variables, site location, access, what’s around, working hours, time of year etc etc. then you start on complexity of the structure itself.

They want you to sign up and pay monthly to be ad free

Im going to say neither wet or dry rot, looks more like someone has made that hole either intentionally or accidentally.

I agree with you, I’ve had people trying to shame me for living in a fairly draughty old railway property, but compared to many I use very little gas or electricity because I’m usually at work.

And here! Reduce the population and you make a very big difference.

A company we know has been asked to supply a further 1000 (over next 2 years) 0.5MW diesel and gas generators to ease demand on the grid.

Take a look at Ecology seems many on here have/are using them for finance of non standard builds

If you are flooring over then even better. Plenty of fixings either side for piece of mind and yes, forget about it.

Think it was made like that, not good practice having joints in same place but common with doubled trussed rafters. As long as the hedgehog plates are in then it won’t go anywhere

Sagging joists is pretty normal in older properties. If you want to stiffen and level up the underside add additional timbers alongside (sistering) and nail or screw to the existing

If it’s derelict then I presume water has been getting in for some time and a full refurb is in order. In this case you may as well leave it as it is as you will be pulling everything out anyway.

Welcome, sounds like a tough project but should be worth it.

I saw that, I think or took it that he was on about power stations, but he did say all the co2

@DeanAlan no need for a mag drill, just an ordinary (decent size) rotary pistol type dril. You don’t put any weight on it, let the cutter do the work. Think the most awkward one I’ve done was on a ladder, 150mm diameter hole into a 300mm diameter steel tube with 20mm wall thickness. Took about 30 mins.

Hole saw, starrett ideally as a lot of the others just can’t hack it. Slow drill speed, plenty of water to keep teeth cool and well braced for when it snags, or use a drill stand held in place by a bolt. we have done hundreds of service holes through webs like this

Gravel will pass water but unless the ground is very well draining it will build up behind the wall unless you give it somewhere to go.

Is the bottom bend welded or very well fixed? If not the passengers could force their way out after hitting the wall repeatedly.

Really depends on the blocks, I would go with holocore blocks then they can be placed over rebar starters and filled with concrete. Also you really need weap holes at the base of the wall or a French drain behind to relieve hydraulic pressure behind the wall

Up and over doors are always draughty, plus single skin walls it is going to loose heat as fast as you put it in. Main problem with a workshop is condensation. I have lathe, milling machine, big table saw etc. so I have 2 oil filled rads with thermostats set to keep temp around 10 degrees. Then a fan heater if it’s cold and I’m working in there.

At 4mx4m you do not need piers, the wind loadings are pretty small unless this shed is in a particularly windy location.

Hi and welcome. Every journey starts with a single step

Turn taps off, hold ear to the pipe and listen, then get someone to turn a or some taps on, if you hear the flow it’s water. If not then probably gas.

Octopus fitted a smart meter when I wanted 3 phase, it hardly ever connects tho so pretty pointless as I have to send readings in

Go with a couple of scaffold boards or whatever you have laying around. I have a motorbike ramp and the ends are too narrow so it rocks over easily

Is that a throne?