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markc

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Everything posted by markc

  1. No need for dog washers and the sistering can be staggered screws or bolts if you prefer. M8 will be plenty and circular repair washers will be more than enough. Drill a snug hole for the bolts and the washers and nuts will be doing very little. connection to wall plate can be angle brackets (Screwfix) or skew screw/nail as this connection will not be loaded
  2. Yes an SE dealing with buildings tends to (and rightly so) err on the side of caution. Asked to look at a sagging ceiling/cracks in plaster etc. and they had a 3m pool in a bedroom with around 500mm of water giving a mass of around 3.5tonnes. now I’m not a SE but do carry out a lot of design and testing of lifting equipment usually where transport weight is critical so optimising design is much more important.
  3. Yes must be connection between 110 and 40mm pipe
  4. I wouldn’t use that on a shed which is probably rough sawn timber or fairly rough, it is great on doors and tables etc. as long as the prep has been done well. I would go with a fence type paint/stain for a shed
  5. No problems, most preservatives are now water based. As long as it’s not raining the treatment will be fine. If you are going to paint it then you may need to wait for it to dry out unless the paint is water based.
  6. At 1/3 of web depth a circular hole is nothing. The web is only there to keep the flanges apart. But as above, they should not be a point loading locations
  7. Still far too many variables, site location, access, what’s around, working hours, time of year etc etc. then you start on complexity of the structure itself.
  8. They want you to sign up and pay monthly to be ad free
  9. Im going to say neither wet or dry rot, looks more like someone has made that hole either intentionally or accidentally.
  10. I agree with you, I’ve had people trying to shame me for living in a fairly draughty old railway property, but compared to many I use very little gas or electricity because I’m usually at work.
  11. And here! Reduce the population and you make a very big difference.
  12. A company we know has been asked to supply a further 1000 (over next 2 years) 0.5MW diesel and gas generators to ease demand on the grid.
  13. Take a look at Ecology seems many on here have/are using them for finance of non standard builds
  14. If you are flooring over then even better. Plenty of fixings either side for piece of mind and yes, forget about it.
  15. Think it was made like that, not good practice having joints in same place but common with doubled trussed rafters. As long as the hedgehog plates are in then it won’t go anywhere
  16. Sagging joists is pretty normal in older properties. If you want to stiffen and level up the underside add additional timbers alongside (sistering) and nail or screw to the existing
  17. If it’s derelict then I presume water has been getting in for some time and a full refurb is in order. In this case you may as well leave it as it is as you will be pulling everything out anyway.
  18. Welcome, sounds like a tough project but should be worth it.
  19. I saw that, I think or took it that he was on about power stations, but he did say all the co2
  20. @DeanAlan no need for a mag drill, just an ordinary (decent size) rotary pistol type dril. You don’t put any weight on it, let the cutter do the work. Think the most awkward one I’ve done was on a ladder, 150mm diameter hole into a 300mm diameter steel tube with 20mm wall thickness. Took about 30 mins.
  21. Hole saw, starrett ideally as a lot of the others just can’t hack it. Slow drill speed, plenty of water to keep teeth cool and well braced for when it snags, or use a drill stand held in place by a bolt. we have done hundreds of service holes through webs like this
  22. Gravel will pass water but unless the ground is very well draining it will build up behind the wall unless you give it somewhere to go.
  23. Is the bottom bend welded or very well fixed? If not the passengers could force their way out after hitting the wall repeatedly.
  24. Really depends on the blocks, I would go with holocore blocks then they can be placed over rebar starters and filled with concrete. Also you really need weap holes at the base of the wall or a French drain behind to relieve hydraulic pressure behind the wall
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