markc

Re the 150kgs/m recent evacuation from a house, woman weighing 180kgs, 2 big and 1 small paramedics, let’s say 260kgs for the 3 of them plus the 180 plus a stretcher/carrier (20kgs I think) that’s 460kgs plus self weight of stair flights all supported by a small landing. oh plus two other family or neighbours who were also standing on the stairs watching … loads on landings soon add up!

Dont think I’ve ever seen anything for domestic loading of landings, but if you work on 5KN (0.5 tonnes) /m2 then you are safe.

Gang/s on day rates more productive than measured? I hope you are right but I would be stunned if that happened.

If you only do that then you will have really small end fill blocks. Put another half block behind the whole one so th next layer will key everything in as it will go over the end half block

Cut blocks to make a pillar either side of the door. Laying blocks on side only works every 2nd course anyway so you will always need to cut. Don’t be afraid of cutting blocks, it’s very easy and necessary

A return at the door is recommended especially if having doubles. Window you will get away with the single block (assuming you are not having a cavity/double skin). highly unlikely you will get away with full block both sides of the door unless your planning is spot on or you are going to have a bespoke double door made (quite expensive). I would pick up the doors and windows and cut the blocks to save money and potential grief

So many variables with retaining walls I can’t see there being anything straight forward to use

Boreholes are common in Netherlands, many industrial units now have them pretty central on the building plan with an access cover in the concrete floor.

Yes! That where I go wrong … I need to learn to say NO,

I’m pretty sure many of you can relate … “it must be good when you can do all these things yourself” well yes apart from getting volunteered for family, friends and mates rates jobs. todays ‘day off’ digging out a cellar floor to drain, insulate and re pour it …not in one day!

Think the T&C’s are a standard cop-out. Sheds often get stuff thrown in and then left shut for weeks on end. If you intend to use the shed then no additional ventilation needed. Plus sheds are rarely air tight

OB1 should do the job. Can’t quite get my head around what you are wanting to do but OB1 is a go-to adhesive

Well done, looks neat and good progress

Should have been measured from the lowest point of the structure when on sloping ground. I did see one situation where neighbours garden was much lower and planning wanted the height measured from the neighbours level due to close proximity. also is it the structure or the raised deck that has prompted the complaint? Have you build a raised “spying” area that overlooks your neighbour?

Definitely

Old MEM board, sticky fuse, wiggle it about, plastic breaks up and you get a good crack from it. …. Not that I would know 😉

Hi and welcome, some very knowledgeable members on here when it comes to ASHP’s … not me tho.

+1 on these

No need for dog washers and the sistering can be staggered screws or bolts if you prefer. M8 will be plenty and circular repair washers will be more than enough. Drill a snug hole for the bolts and the washers and nuts will be doing very little. connection to wall plate can be angle brackets (Screwfix) or skew screw/nail as this connection will not be loaded

Yes an SE dealing with buildings tends to (and rightly so) err on the side of caution. Asked to look at a sagging ceiling/cracks in plaster etc. and they had a 3m pool in a bedroom with around 500mm of water giving a mass of around 3.5tonnes. now I’m not a SE but do carry out a lot of design and testing of lifting equipment usually where transport weight is critical so optimising design is much more important.

Yes must be connection between 110 and 40mm pipe

I wouldn’t use that on a shed which is probably rough sawn timber or fairly rough, it is great on doors and tables etc. as long as the prep has been done well. I would go with a fence type paint/stain for a shed

I want one!

No problems, most preservatives are now water based. As long as it’s not raining the treatment will be fine. If you are going to paint it then you may need to wait for it to dry out unless the paint is water based.

At 1/3 of web depth a circular hole is nothing. The web is only there to keep the flanges apart. But as above, they should not be a point loading locations