markc

A lead flashing would be pretty straight forward as long as the roof is not low pitch as this would make sealing against blown water very difficult. a raised skylight with a symmetrical gap around the side does look very smart with corrugated sheets, just needs some care and attention with positioning to suit the corrugations

That’s a hidden gutter and the down pipes will be internal, common arrangement on industrial buildings.

Couldn’t agree more, ive been saying this for years.

The L&G set up at Sherborne in Elmet is an interesting place, very well laid out and highly mechanised.

Hello and welcome, having a plot is the biggest hurdle so we’ll done and have fun

The beads would help but you will still get cold and damp crossing the battens and into the PB. Sealing the brickwork would minimise damp coming in but moist air will still go from inside through the PB and condense on inner face of brickwork causing more damp

+1 on scabbler

I can’t see any problem with that

Ouch! That could inflate your cost / m2

Hi and welcome, what area are you in? I don’t know of any independent window surveyors but most manufacturers and suppliers will (are likely) to give advice especially if they can slag the opposition.

Hi, depth is determined by size of lid … bigger the opening, the deeper the frame. In your case I would drill and fix it in place and then a small haunch to help tyres up and over as the gravel moves

In that case you are looking at a medium duty ductile iron cover. Often called a driveway or car park cover. Good for around 10-12 tonnes and cheap as chips for what they are. Frame depth depends on the lid size.

What vehicles will use the drive? How likely is it that wheels will go over the lid? How will the drive be finished? Will you set the lid in concrete or tarmac? Or sets etc.

Assuming the connection is under the pavement then you might as well keep it deep till the first chamber. Then assess runs and depths needed from the build/s and put their chambers in to suit. Bit of extra digging is much easier and less stress than working with shallow drains

I love shipping containers (oh no! My secrets out), they are like Lego for crane fans but I would never use them over here for a home … they are even terrible as site offices. Sectional pre fab buildings can be had for peanuts and while they need more care lifting and supporting they are generally well insulated and pretty easy to alter/adapt.

I’ve looked at this many times and after several experiments came to the conclusion cats do not like going through tunnels with flaps on … odd when they will happily crawl under floor boards. I wasn’t even trying for air tightness or insulation purposes, I simply wanted a cat flap in the wall instead of a door or window. But anything tube-like and my cats would not entertain the idea

Really depends on where in the build, if you are tanking over old substrate then liquid will be much easier and forgiving, but for slab or over insulation etc then a sheet material wins hands down

+1 also doubling makes getting the wall flat much easier when you overlap the joints

You have a rodding point, take the cap off and get someone to flush the loo (don’t use it first) if the water rushes past the hole then you don’t have a blockage issue

Ah, in that case @ProDave has the answer. It’s.

There is on your roof, couple of £ and an hour or so and you can add a dropper into your roof and forget about it.

I use a laser all the time and never had a tripod for it. L shaped bracket screwed to wall or clamped to door or frame for high level line or stand laser on floor or on a block for low level stuff

As this is timber frame and the verticals are doubled there is a very good chance those members are load bearing. You really need to speak to the timber frame company to check. What about removing the door and frame and making the verticals a feature? what seems like a small job could well be quite complex and expensive in this case

I would say the water marks on the roofing felt are just run off of water coming down the wall and around the pipe. The damp areas at the lower end could well be condensation forming on the pipe in the roof space. I would bet there is nothing wrong with the pipe itself, more the detail of how it’s. Fitted wrapped etc.

You don’t need syringes and no need or reason to measure the amount of fluid. You simply hold the tube in a U shape and add water to an inch or so from the top and it’s ready.