markc

That reminds me of a job we were doing in Milton Keynes, first day crane on site the local HSE guy came to tell us he passed this site twice a day. Needless to say everyone told to be squeaky clean. One day he came onto site and the bell was ringing on the crane (kato truck cranes all did this whenever boom was below 30 degrees) but instead of telling the guy this, crane driver said “please don’t phone my gaffer” and why is that? Because he’s always told me to turn the bell off if I’m doing anything dodgy! 🙈 let’s just say we didn’t get much done over the next few days

+1 a cheap generator will be noisy and likely to play havoc with any tech you have in your home. a decent silenced stable output gen is definitely £5K+ and add another £1k for the lpg version.

@Radian bet me too it, just finished reading and the first thought was strip and redo the entire roof in one go. Removes loads of work and potential grief.

Insulating a cold floor makes a massive difference, my mother in law’s house was cold and the kitchen was horrendous, always felt damp and musty. Drilled a couple of test holes in the floor and found concrete on top of clay and ash. She wanted a new kitchen so timing was great, dug out, added DPM and 100mm insulation with a 100mm concrete top (corbelled foundation prevented going deeper). Topped off with a slate floor and the kitchen is now the main room for anyone, no changes to heating or anything, just made a massive difference

You will find one to fit, have had a few recently that were measured (and stated) assistance to back of face plate when it’s generally face of face plate (flush with door edge)

You will be fine, concrete generates heat as it is curing. Really low temps that can or would cause flash freezing at the surface would be an issue but in Uk no problem

As long as the fall is right then no problem with 50m

Looks like an A-Team or McGuiver booby trap

If skirts are MDF get a good coat of sealer on bottom edge before fitting or they soak up any moisture like a sponge if floors are hard and get mopped

Remove the handle, and turn square bar with a spanner or pliers. This gives you more movement than the handle. Once open you can work out where the problem lies. Quite possibly it’s the handle mechanism

Has the door dropped at the hinges or gone out of square due to glass replacement? If it’s the hinge then it must have worn and easier to replace than try and adjust for a worn pin/socket

Where is the DPC? I can’t see it. And/or where is internal floor level compared to the outside

As it’s a feature and only 3 courses then no problem using adhesive, a flexible tile adhesive would work well.

Was the roof replaced over the removed stack or stack reduced? as the wet patch is so localised it must be a specific point of water entry. water dripping onto felt isn’t a problem, it’s there to catch and direct any water blown under the slates or tiles and take it to the gutter. I don’t understand air vents inside and out for a capped chimney, do you have a pic inside the loft showing the stack? And or outside?

All of the above are good points, as you say it is rainwater ingress I presume this only happens when it’s raining? Or is it just damp walls? Or a or more damp rooms?

Trend jig is pretty good, a few others available too. Not that hard to make yourself for hinges and yes they work on door and frame

Pretty sure you have to pack those hinges to get left/right movement

They just need a self charging hybrid! …. Friend of mine has ordered one thinking she never has to pay for fuel again 🙈

Morning, assuming horizontal so work on 600mm max, 160mm blocked/full is around 20kgs per meter so don’t scrimp on saddles or fixings

If they buy a lintel and fit then it’s zero rated and you should not be charged vat, if they just buy a lintel for you then it should have vat and you would have to (try) and reclaim it. Much better and easier for you if you supply all materials but you need to be on the ball or the subbies will leave themselves short of stuff and blame you.

Hi, yes cheap xps foam underlay material, works great as a moisture barrier under wood fibre sheets.

Well done and welcome

On a different note, if you go for your VAT reclaim early then you are going to loose the vat on everything after (unless someone knows of successful multiple vat reclaims on a new build). The finishing works could be a serious amount and you would be better borrowing more to fund the build and then getting the max vat back at the end.

By “permitted” you mean can you do this work without getting your neighbours approval and permission? The answer is no. This would definitely come under party wall agreement and your neighbour would (rightly so) need to know what you intend doing, how you will go about it and how you will make sure they are not affected or if so, compensated for the works you are wanting to undertake. is it possible to raise the wall? Yes but it may not be straight forward and could be costly to do so without affecting your neighbour.

Morning, looks like someone layed a dpm and insulation before the slab so all good. No need for another dpm, depending on height available you could lay something cheap foam underlay under the wood fibre, this allows a couple of mm of air space between concrete and wood fibre board.