markc

Hi, assuming the hole doesnt go into the shower area as well, you could use expanding foam to fill the void, trim back when set and then finish as required. not a lot you can do with the bit of trim apart from replace the whole piece or just that bit with something else

good morning and welcome

Quite often its the lap near the ridge, if the felt is undamaged then no need to replace it, carefully peel back/lift up the ridge piece and stick it back down with a continuous bead of mastic or similar to seal the edge

Ian (educated guess), builders struggle to keep up with the new materials, technologies and specs etc. When it comes to compressive strength of materials and floor loadings i know several "engineers" who struggle to get their heads around it. If you have any doubts, err on the side of caution. The denser (not sure if thats a real word) EPS materials are not that much more expensive for piece of mind

Yes, depending on the weight of the structure, contents, usage etc.

Good morning and welcome, ...building your retirement home? ... so basically cant give it up and landing yourself more work than before

Good morning and welcome ... good advice regarding the Covid thread

I would hazard a guess at high winds plus rain pushing the water up under a felt lap/joint

That`s an odd steel detail.

If they ever have an Oscar for forum threads, this one will get it

No problems at all importing from Europe, costing us around £46.00 to customs clear an artic loaded with around £400K of machines. Truck just has to drive through the customs yard and hand over the declaration paperwork. The drivers have said its now much quicker and easier than it was last year. we use UK hauliers to bring our machines in. The couriers based in Europe have not got their act together tho, loads of delays and they just cant seem to get to grips with the requirements.

@Pord67, just a thought - your tank is a flat bottom variety i assume, or is in on legs? - concrete strength and slab design will be very different

Hi, Yes C40 is overkill - used for high strength beams etc. C20 would be adequate for your use.

Pretty much the one that @joe90 gave the link to

This seems odd, a chimney pot isnt a big hole/funnel to collect so much rain water.

This all depends on the load weight and ground you are going over. the fold-up/doubles as a platform truck ones are great in a workshop od on a flat solid floor. In a garden you need something with large wheelbarrow type wheels - and go for a fully welded one. We have a few around work, one is a new cheap chinese thing and its brilliant, inflated tyres and fully welded, think it cost around £30

Any bolt into a threaded hole will wobble due to thread clearance..

@Jer70 i cant see any reason why not unless removing the packs will allow the glass to slip down.

if its a shower screen then ideally you dont want any packers as this is likely to leave voids that will collect water. If the glass is a little short or base not quite level then it would be better to lay down a bead of silicon (thicker than you need), allow to almost dry and then sit the glass on that. No voids and better load distribution. Packs are needed in UPVC frames etc to hold doors and window square .... or out of square to fit the frame etc.

Bending rebar (manually) is mind numbing, heavy tiring labour. Have it ready done where you can. there will always be some site bending to do. Yes there are schedules and codes for bends but for the odd few you need to do on site its very easy with two tubes (usually Scaff tubes). The danger is bending too tight a radius but that wont happen doing it cold as the bar will naturally take a larger radius than machine bending.

Im assuming that is a ledger and rail door so the hinges should go on the rails.. If its a bit bowed or warped - could be made into it or just drying/settling, loosen the screws holding the rails and ledgers, push the door into the frame and then re tighten the screws, it should then stay put.

welcome, always worth searching for answers to your questions before posting. - wealth of knowledge on this site and most questions have been answered already.

Thats a big pad for a 3t tank. do you really need a full slab? no need to clean off the clay, plenty of hardcore and compact it. do not pour it in two haves, no need for an expansion joint etc. so a double pour just adds a potential failure/break point. PS 2700x2700 with 3 ton tank is only 411kg/m2 - very low loading

Ive seen some stove claims and advertising that left me shaking my head. Saw one that claimed they used special glass that reflected most of the heat back inwards to improve safety ...hmmm, surely the whole point of a log burner is to radiate as much heat as possible, Yes the glass will have a big effect on heat output, and how anyone can give maximum case temperatures puzzles me, insulation controls the temp by limiting the escape of heat where you dont want it, but fire burn temperature depends on the fuel and air (oxygen) available, In a previous property i had a log burner that was pathetic so i removed the side and front insulation (big old hearth space so not worried about fire) and the effect was amazing, used about 75% less wood and heated the room much better.

Plenty of lube on the flush pipe before you push the pan on, ive had the rubber gaskets/seals slide down the pipe instead of going into the pan. one was so persistent i had to wrap tape around the pipe behind the seal to stop it popping over the pipe end and sliding back.