Question

thanks for your replies. More expense probably as it will be very difficult to get the original installer back. Any thoughts about how we persuade a probably reluctant plumber to correct his own work?

I had a new unvented cylinder installed with new expansion vessels a year. See image of the red vessel (12 liter 130 Cal-Pro Zilmet) supported only with the two copper pipes. Another plumber recently warned us that this expansion vessel could become very heavy if it failed, as it fills with water. That could result in the pipes breaking and to hot water flooding the room. It could also cause injury. Do I need to secure the expansion vessel with a bracket against the wall?

Thanks very much for your comments. This came up, as I have to change a washer in a tap. I don't think the plastic piping is polyplumb, as there are no markings on the pipes. So there is already a mix of different brands, the T junction being polyplumb. The whole thing has been in place and fine for 20 years. The polyplumb T junction was probably added by a plumber who was extending the water for an extension. So I'll just leave it alone and switch off the water from the main to change the washer, like Iceverge suggested.

I think I can answer my own question. The cap of the T junction has the distinctive polyplumb brand markings. So I'll get a polyplumb isolator.

I have a sink and want to add an isolating valve for the taps. See photos. The 15mm plastic pipes are at least 20 years old or probably 30- 40 years old. Should I get a (a) plastic isolating valve and not worry about what brand it is. In other words, different brands are compatible with each other. (b) plastic isolating value of a particular brand (if so, please tell me what brand) (c) copper isolating valve, and if so do I get a pushfit or compression or either. (d) do not touch it. (the plastic pipes go under the floor). Grateful for any advice.

I can't remember. It seems that someone (probably me) need to crawl into the attic.

It is a ceiling fan. I can't see any ducting in the loft but it is quite far away. the only way is for me to see is to crawl along the loft.

Yes that I would suspect that is what happened. It is a ceiling fan. As mentioned above, he tried to save time and not do a EIC or register his work on line. this is what we agreed with the electrician: SUPPLY & INSTALL 1 x EXTRACTOR FAN WITH TIMER SUPPLY & INSTALL 1 x FAN ISOLTOR SUPPLY & INSTALL 1 x WHITE FIXED GRILL & 4” FLEXI DUCT

I wouldn't trust the electrician. He tried to save time and hope I wouldn't notice that he hadn't done an EIC. I had to threaten going to the NIC EIC and he provided the right paperwork. I guess with the ceiling fan, he replied on us NOT knowing what to check. this is what we agreed with the electrician: SUPPLY & INSTALL 1 x EXTRACTOR FAN WITH TIMER SUPPLY & INSTALL 1 x FAN ISOLTOR SUPPLY & INSTALL 1 x WHITE FIXED GRILL & 4” FLEXI DUCT

An electrician fitted a fan in an upstairs shower/bath room and there is no grill on the outside wall, and no grill added to the soffits. So I am concerned that the air is being extracted into the attic and could cause mould and perhaps damage the wooden roof structure. The attic has a very small height (39cm height, floor joist to the joist under the flat roof) and from the entrance of the attic in the ceiling below, the fan is about 180cm down horizontally and close to the sloping room on the left. Please see picture. The electrician has gone and been paid, and is certainly not interested. I wouldn't trust him anyway. Grateful for any advice. I don't fancy crawling along the attic to check it.

My wife is not happy with how our utility room looks with two expansion vessels one of which is red. We have explored all sorts of ideas like having a wooden surround but it would take up a lot of space, and a cupboard in front of it (which we got but doesn't really work).

Thanks. Should I cover the pipes first and then foam around them ?

I am thinking of using foam to fill gaps around copper pipes in the ceiling and wall. The copper pipes are the main ones from the boiler. Can the foam take the heat? I am thinking of getting: Soudal Genius Gun Gap Filling Expanding Foam 500ml | Toolstation Your advice appreciated.

We have an unvented system with two expansion vessels, a larger white one and a smaller red one. We would like to paint the red one white, so it looks better in the room. I understand the vessels are used to manage the water pressure and don't get hot. Would it be OK to paint the red one white? Has anyone painted one of these?

Thanks very much. I am getting mixed message from my research. Neutral also seems better for wet environments. I think my shower tray isn't acrylic.