tonyshouse

That is cheapest way out even with 4m deep trenches, piling is easier. absolutely must get a design done, step one is get samples and soil report

Easy to Mark position of noggins on plasterboard once ceiling is tacked

1 easy, put nogs in agreed places 2 is ok to sandwich plasterboard, nice if either light switch wire are hung in the right place or holes and pull through in top plate 3 good electrician will be ok

Grab the pin gently with pliers and wiggle it up and down manually - temporary fix for you

So that it does not get damaged when it freezes

I suggest replace tap and pipe with plastic.

Yes, need to be very carefully if sanding as paper may ‘rough up’

I like to hold posts up off anything that they can sit on outdoors, eg plate rebated into the end of the post

Light wells don’t need to be anything like that deep, normal window 10% of floor area, for high level windows less area is needed. where is ventilation coming from?

I think that the insulation under the floor was intended as sound insulation.

Mine has 200mm main duct round reducing to 150mm when two floats left and two rooms 125mm and each room has one or two 100mm terminals. I used spiral steel ducts except for above g/f ceilings

Instructions should be on the packet, 20 to 30% more water than for pasting paper

Mini grinder first then cut a grid all to the perfect depth then flick the oxo cubes out

Country of origin is important, Welsh are best unless you want greenish. I find some from overseas crack diagonally after laying ?

Trickle vents do almost nothing on calm days, little bit of convection PIV blows air into a home 24/7 and whatever volume of new air is blown in an equal amount of warm air must leave the home. There is a cost in blowing warm out as well as the cost of the fan power though most likely that at least is heating the building

Low capital cost, high running cost when you add inthe heat losses. I think it should be illegal, it does work yes but continuously pumps warm out at the same rate as it fans (pumps) cold air in.

I never used or will use aerated blocks, too many cracks, even slamming a door will cause them to crack, thermal movements, waekness points, under windows, above doors, beside lintels all common for cracking in contrast, medium density blocks virtually no cracks. - ten years on too

Hate it but if you must a flat noggin under the join

Thermal expansion creep crack, will continue to grow and eventually Tracy right across the sheet. I would cut it square ti the valley right across and insert a piece as PW 300mm long 150mm up under and 150mm down over the top. It might be possible to slide it up under the slates each side without removing them. Normally I would copper nail the sides and top edges.

Does it leak?

Thanks for the pic. Not as bad or urgent as I was dreading It is a very very bad idea to stick Flashband over the top of lead and worse to go on top of the slates too! do nothing ! temporaty fix would be to slide a piece of Flashband in under the slate 50/50 over the crack and 10mm too long at the end of the crack. proper job, weld a piece of lead over it, replace valley in new lead , it should be done in sections 1.5 to 1.8m long code 5 lead to allow for thermal expansion LDA = Lead Development Association

No, best thing to do is nothing! Is it leaking? you should specify what you want if it was mine I would want lead to LDA standard, should last 80 to 100 years it is possible to piece in a new bit of leas with overlaps. stick on solutions will only be a temporary fix. I could letterbox in a small tongue of lead that would last 15 to 20 yrs but that would be a ‘bodge job’ I can’t really see your crack but I hav seen it all before, lead should be laid in sections 1.5m possibly 1.8m long with overlaps

I would use a two part resin car bony type filler and fill all the air bubble holes under where the rubber washer goes and sand flat first, then rubber washer will do it’s job ok

I built a green roof with good falls, 7.5degrees, 300cc joists 28mm marine ply, normal felt, drainage layer geotextile, crushed chalk, poor subsoil, sedum plugs failsafe edge detail not leaked yet, the felt is so well protected it might never leak. what are your falls? Puddles are the enemy of flat roofs

I have been here a few years ago and still have concerns about condensation risk on top of the dpc at the outside underside edge of the soleplate. i would like to see the 50mm eps carried a few hundred millimetres above the soleplate to mitigate the thermal bridge you can have the detail modelled but for me the coldest place is under the soleplate