tonyshouse

I don’t like the frame sat straight on the sill! Either a water bar needed or a stub sill . Stub sill will allow frame to move further inboard this will also allow you to lift the window board a bit too possibly 40 to 50mm and insert insulation under it near the stone sill

ResinLab.it

Yes, nothing, possibly wax oil but even then best to wait a good while

You can reclaim the VAT so only a cash flow issue any way

Partial hip, continue the existing pitch into the new, fit a hip rafter first

Break the glass and any burglar is in already, thumb turn or not

I would never want to need to find a key in order to get out of my house, all my customers got thumb turns as standard, and friends are advised to get them. my house is single hand exit, when lever is depressed to pull back the latch the shoot bolt unlocks too, this was due to become a requirement but slow coming into force

Sounds huge, how high were they, I did some once 50x50 box with tabs on for every block course up the middle of the gable only.

My engineer would never allow me (the builder or client) to use blocks laid flat in load beating situations. I can’t see why if wall is 140mm thick they couldn’t have been laid in the normal fashion?

Is it blocks laid flat?

Will there be a land drain round the outside of your basement? Best day low as possible, ideally bottom just below bottom of slab/walls or have you got pumped drainage inside with a sump?

Under sills and window boards in through, between, over and under floor planks

Better to not have verge pieces, undercloaks or pointing. Nice to clip the bottom outside corners of slates back at 45 degrees

Pokered 50 slump will be ok , for pumped will need to be thinner but not 120, all the stones will sink to the bottom 60 for me

300 is ok for a drain , just

It is weird but breathable in this context means vapour open, ie let’s water molecules in and out but NOT wind! so long as joist ends are inside your insulation barrier they won’t gather condensation or get damp and rot, but beware of plumbing leaks

Easiest to dig 600 , should be able to get a 450 bucket, 300 for a foundation seems awfully narrow to me

Remove all organic material from inside. backfill with rubble or stones compacted in 150mm layers

I used a breather membrane and hermetically sealed it to the blockwork by stapling an expanded metal lath over the edge and wet plastering over it

External shading is best and west facing windows generally cause biggest problems with overheating

Need calcs, I would not use wall plate or doubled up wall plate . Depending on direction of joists I would use 150 x100. But may as well use a beam same size as roof joists if roof only sits on shorter span 100x100 might just do it

Generally you are not allowed to put any additional equipment in the meter box. You should feed new stuff from the existing consumer unit or fit new things next to it

Leave gaps, yes. Ring shank gun nails for me and separating membrane. I hate flat roofs, destined to leak , all of them

I do two, except on Bath/shower/front/back and airing cbd where 3 , 3 on all fire doors 50% more expensive to do 3, not easy to find savings of 50%

Switch off ventilation system. Hang dust sheets over windows, don’t let the sun in , if it works use external shutters, Does design have large areas of south or west facing glass? Did you get a building physics model?