tonyshouse

I would like to see a thermal bridging analysis before answering, there seems to me to be bridging into the floor planks yet to be mitigated

Mark the manholes and say that drains/sewer sealed temporarily in the manholes with drainage bungs and left ready for reconnection probably only need one of each pink are irrelevant if house being demolished

Mine never moved, no J beads, only used centre support in middle of 2400 wide windows and used dowels under those styles to take the weight but not on smaller windows. I did seal insulation used to close my cavities to rye frames and stuck the bound edges of plasterboard lining to the frame with decorators caulk. window frames are jointed together so should be strong in themselves none of my 1800 frames have moved, basically only screwed into the masonry , three each side

How long does it take to heat up from say 18C to 21C?

I have talked about thermostats before saying that they are so C20 in C21 if you even need a heating system then please use a chronostat or programmable room thermostat as cost is proportional to delta T it costs more to heat all the time and it also costs more and uses more energy than heating to different temperatures at different times of the day The future is heating regimes not thermostats

Simple answer is ‘no it is not’ it is worth insulating the floor to better than current regs and that will likely drive a slightly lower subfloor.

We hardly use the hood but when we do it sends cooking smells and more importantly grease and greasy steam outside. not nice in MVHR ducts or in the machine

Draw the soffit first then the rafters then decide how to support the rafters above the inner skins of the walls

The inrush current on heat pumps can be very high. Different breakers are available that can cope with that

I built a full basement and so recommend that you tell your engineer what you want, presumably an economic solution I don’t see any wisdom in asking contractors what to do, you decide what you want then tell them piling the foundations sounds ok again get a design, but then for me and I am only a builder not an engineer you can build your own retaining walls off those foundations. there is no way I would build myself a home with different foundations under the front than under the back.

OSB is not dimensionally stable, it can swell, expand and in extreme circumstances bow or”bubble”. If it gets wet it will be a problem, if the house gets damp or steamed up plasterboard is quite forgiving of one off water events, OSB not so forgiving, it is capable of moving studs, even pushing blockwork. I would leave expansion gaps, fit additional noggins.

But neither are deliverable in any reasonable time scale, even with a money no object approach, it just can’t be done

4” plastic drain pipe for vertical with slow radius bend put join in an easy place to get to, I would not dig any deeper, next to it is deep enough already

Ethanol burner, not as much heat but look nice. I would reconsider, you will be living inside a chimney with consequential health implications Also gas >CO2 + H2O + pollutants so it will add lots of moisture which can finish feeding moulds

The moonshine can produce some generation. Some generation meters have glitches, the power is very low,

It will be better as it is more like an aero bar, full of bubbles and bit brittle. But the edge surfaces are too smooth offering to little key to mortar.

No point in trying, the blocks crack, pull away from the perps, move! Even if the start airtight it won’t last long ?

Well done and UW

OK one of the best

Millions of buildings have roof covered with concrete and non asbestos cement artificial slates, they all work. tiles are cheaper to lay than slates many slate roofs are over 100 years old generally they used Welsh slates (the best) unless you can afford Westmorland ones, Spanish slates are not as durable as Welsh slates

Better to design fail safe than to rely on sealants, even good sealants.

Not quite , there needs to be a big half and a small half ?

When I used to buy them the halves worked for a perfect half bond

I have always opened windows and use a blow it through approach.

Staggered for me and get half tiles for verges