tonyshouse

I like a drainage membrane between the wall and the stones. I like fail safe design which might mean membrane up the inside of the inner skin to the first block then up the cavity. I was I’m Caversham today, recently involved in building a hydro there

Fo me first detail runs risk of sweating and picking up some condensation on the inside of the dpm at the coldest places. don’t like rockwool below g/l

I would not use rockwool below ground, not fail safe, suggest EPS instead drainage channel ideally below lowest point of the base dpm I would go floating floor Probably you want a cavity tray above the external dpc

Hilti gun

I worry about draughts and thermal bypass especially into the battened void. I would say insulate between let me inspect it then over the top and then a full vapour barrier welted and sealed to adjoining air tightness layers or plastered into the walls, fully sealed around openings and only then the battened void

There is no way that you want them to do work, you need the relationship and control, they will be advised not to do work, just sell. they may be under pressure as once probate is granted IHT cuts in and the revenue will want money the cracks will be very off putting to home buyers and mortgage issues will ensue. what crack are they talking about, there are lots of cracks

Oxalic acid is a weak acid and is great on oak and ash. brilliant on water stains.

I hate that spray foam, trying include the loft into the heated envelope of the building is a bad idea. I love the dragon tie! The rafters rend to stay dry, if tiles leak then battens get damp, go mouldy and rot unseen. was a damp meter used to detect “damp” in the bathroom? I hate damp meters, they measure electrical conductivity not damp. if you can get back in and collect a sample I Nan analyse it and tell you % moisture to within 0.1 of a percent, bag it in poly, double bagg and send by post. Sample should be it here all wood or all plasterboard so send two, a 20th of a teaspoon would do. I doubt damp and unlikely to need a new roof, all the joists look good but are all thermal bridges. roof unlikely to be leaking apart from through or round the chimney

3 hinges on each leaf

Arch too close to corner to be viable, flank wall to passage lots of cracks, looks like moving but could be wind, physical damage, poor foundations side wall of house , crack at low level looks like push from inside, chipboard floor suspected but needs investigations

Aerated blocks ?

Movement joints are needed, is the retaining wall to retain ground above patio level or under it? if it were mine I would dig out, geotextile, compacted hardcore or MOT type 1, no sand, reinforced concrete with A252 mesh, 125mm concrete. if patio slabs then the three bays as plan would be ok laid on leanmix or sand and cement more nervous with the fancy membrane but too expensive for me, I would divide the two larger areas into 4 bays each, continuous mesh but movement joints using wood ‘3x1” above and below mesh. slabs all laid to same falls, tiles not to cross movement joins, slabs all laid to same fall and perfectly flat, suggest tile as normal for outdoors, polysulphide the movement joints mitigate cracking by design

No need to do anything

With mixes insulation types I would install a full continuous vb behind the plasterboard everywhere and hermetically seal it to wall vb or plaster

Vapour barrier goes between the pir and the battens. ply in my way of thinking can be omitted- I might use builders band to form an X 2.4 high and 2.4 wide to prevent racking

Black Jack painted on , either oil or waterbased emulsion, careful work with poly and rape, self adhesive dpm, all tricky. I would use folded thick poly

I used cedar for fascias and softwood for soffits, soffits get no weather they have darkened nicely with the reflected UV

Usually drawer box boxes come with clips/cam thingies that screw onto the drawer front and connect them reversibly to the box.

Will you use Blum hinges?

I use homestyle, any style, any size, any hinge hole positions, fast service economic - can talk if it would help

I would auger a hole down a meter, fill with stones and dig shallow troughs towards it again stone filled, can put land drain or old tin cans with both ends cut out if you like.

I did several 40 years ago, still there untouched, ‘Twil lath’ three coat work with a blue circle flexible paint coating one not even repainted

My comfort views are that small diurnal temperature swings are best, floor to ceiling temperature variation 1 or 2C , one is best , not too much glass as we radiate heat to outside and that makes us feel cold (the opposite effect to an ir heater)

All direct electric heaters convert 1kW of electricity into 1kW of heat they are all equally efficient

Yes?