Linto

Sorry haven't explained it very well, it's a suspended timber floor, raft foundation due to poor ground conditions and sloping site so there's a crawl space that I'm using to access the bottom of the joists. It's a renovation so placing the airtight layer between the joists and floor won't work as I don't want to lift them. Plus having the airtight layer below prevents the air movement from the bricks from washing out the insulation compromising it's usefulness. For monitoring the temp and humidity is was thinking of something like 6 of these with an alert on Home assistant if the moisture level gets too high.

I'm nearing the end of my forever project of insulating under the suspended floors. But I know best practice is to seal it with a breather membrane to prevent air leakage and wind wash from the air vents. To do this is going to be a right pain to get done correctly so I was wondering if I can just place breather membrane over the air vents to stop the breeze and monitor the underfloor atmosphere to see how it goes using automatic temperature and humidity sensors linked to my Home assistant set up, removing the coverings if it doesn't work? I have a MVHR system up and running and the subfloor is concrete as its a raft foundation that has never shown any moisture penetration, also it is not a radon gas area. This would be the last bit of the renovation and the house is pretty air tight except for the subfloor letting in air via the vents. Am I just being lazy or is it a viable strategy? I've seen the airex smart bricks but you can't self install them unfortunately.

Cheers JohnMo that's how I'm currently doing it.

Currently the system is Gad boiler to tank with immersion. I'm running it with the boiler turned off during daylight hours as we seem to always get enough sun to heat with the immersion. Eventually we will switch to ashp but can't justify it with a properly working boiler at the moment. Tony, thanks for that but I was meaning should I turn up the thermostat on the immersion as high as it goes to get the full benefit of the solar and then mix down using a thermostatic mixer. Or just accept that I'll be exporting the excess.

I've had an EDDI solar diverter installed which uses excess solar to heat my hot water tank. However I'm unsure how best to manage it. I have 2 young children so don't like the hot water to be too hot to prevent the risk of scalding. Is it best to heat the tank as warm as I can and then mix it down using a thermostatic mixer or heat the water to an acceptable level and just manage the excess another way?

3 car chargers seems excessive per home. Unless the owners are driving all 3 >200 miles each day then they won't need to charge them all at the same time. One would probably be enough, two at most.

I've seen these being used. Plus you can get similar tap locks else where. If things haven't been finished yet maybe having an easily accessed isolation valve inside?

Has anybody used connect B press fittings? Just had the plumber round and he's trying them out, I wasn't too keen for him to use our creaking system as a test bed so he's used solder. I did have a look at them but wasn't too taken with them as they seem to use a rubber ring to help seal it and can't DIY them without the specialist tools. He seemed pretty pleased with them especially the speed of use and how secure they are compared to press fit stuff. Seems like the local plumbers merchant has a few systems in that it's lending out for people to try, over £1k for the tools make me think few will change.

Seems like we've got a proper west Cumbria gang here with me being just a bit close to the coast than Papillon. We wanted to do similar to you with our renovation but had to scale it back due to massive cost increases but the forum has been a gold mine for advice for me. In the end we've largely gone for massively increasing the insulation(Inc ewi) and assorted smaller improvements.

Would a load of single room mvhr extractor fans work? Just have them in the areas that need the ventilation, bathrooms kitchen and maybe one or two communal areas? Be easier than running loads of pipe work through the steel. Plus maybe cheaper? But would obviously only be cheaper if you can return the already ordered stuff.

One thing to consider is that the sarking option may be cheaper than above & between or between & under due to their increased labour costs (it's time intensive to cut and fix the rigid boards between rafters). Lying them on top is quicker but needs more specialist fixings.

Here's a good resource for the different insulation roof types. https://insulation-uk.com/roof-insulation/pitched-roofs by the sounds of it you'll want what they call pitched roof sarking but have a look at them all so you have a good idea of your options.

Thing is the builder is going off the k rend spec as supplied by k rends qs for their system e. This is the thing that's getting to me, k rend haven't specified it. Looking at their BBA certificate it's not that clear either. Will just get him to use adhesive. Question is, which one? A render based one or an expanding foam type?

Thank to an initial miscommunication on my part (which I thought had been sorted) when the builder has come to install the EWI we seem to have some different ideas. By my reading of the BBA certificate the boards should be fixed mechanically and with a suitable mortar. It's a bit vague but the image on the spec seems to show both. The builder is currently just planning on using mechanical fixings. I'd be ok with this but would the ewi perform better with both or should I just say ok but ask him to foam around the external edges to ensure air can't get behind it? If both is best I'll take the hit in increased costs as the issue seems to stem from the initial problem. What do you all think?

Hi, Just finished installing my MVHR system and have a 50m roll of pipe left over. It's QUIET-VENT STANDARD 50 METRE ANTIBACTERIAL RADIAL PIPE from BPC. I'm in West Cumbria. If anybody is interested let time know and we can come to an arrangement over price etc.