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About Linto

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  1. Also look at Dekko Deceunick and Rehau which are similar-ish to the R9 but a bit cheaper. I know the local fitters for R9 now recommend the Dekko ones instead. Can't comment on the frames u values though. We still can't decide which to go with, I think it will just come down to which fitters have the best reputation as there doesn't seem that much between them.
  2. So after giving up hope of finding a builder to start this year and knowing prices have increased substantially I thought I'd take another look at what we were planning on doing with our roofs insulation build up to see if I can make any savings. Currently we are planning a roof detail as per the image aiming for about a u value of .14 or below. But as the roof has supporting dwarf walls and areas that we aren't planning on plastering (we would just use equivalent thicknesses of PIR in these areas) I thought about putting the PIR insulation over the rafters instead. In my mind this will be easier to achieve with less complications and simpler for any builders. It seems like a straight forward swap from under to over and there are a number of details available from manufacturers but I fear that I'm missing a key detail. Ie where to put a VCL if needed? So the new proposed build up would be: Tiles Battons Membrane PIR insulation Mineral wool 175mm or 200mm (rafters will be 195mm thick so I'm unsure what to go for, compress the 200mm (probably will be 2x 100mm rolls) or 175mm and thicker PIR) Plaster What are your thoughts, any other ideas?
  3. Have you considered using SIPs to build it? Probably towards the top end of what you are talking price wise but would be a straight forward build and you could clad using what ever you fancy. Something like this
  4. I need people's thoughts on the possibility of changing my roof design for our loft extension from a traditional rafter roof design to a SIPs one. My thinking behind this is that we've been quoted >£25k for a temporary scaffolding roof and this is just destroying our budget. I'm thinking of speeding the build up and one way if doing this could be using SIPs instead of the traditional rafter design we are currently planning for. I know they will be more expensive initially but if i can save on the cost of the temporary roof due to the increased speed to water tight and just accept that we will need to repair some rain damage plus the cost saving in labour it should work out cheaper? Plus from speaking to a number of builders materials that are imported seem to be fluctuating in price and availability which is complicating their ability to quote properly, SIPs being built here shouldn't suffer from this? What do people think, how easy is it to change construction methods from that in the original plans and would it be worth it?
  5. I'd probably look for minimum sizes too, some new builds are far too small. Also make building control and the builder more liable (or easier to hold to account) for any issues, if a building fails then it wasn't only built incorrectly but not properly inspected. I suppose this ties in with the inspect every building rather than the one or two on the estate that have been done right so that the rest of the shoddy ones can pass without being checked.
  6. I'll try to get a closer view of the velux once it's stopped raining, so will probably be in the new year!
  7. So after it not stopping raining for what feels like a month the roof has started to leak. It's not a massive leak and not all the time its raining but it appears after a prolonged period. Looking in the loft the water looks to be running down a rafter after coming through the tar paper at a nail hole, se the 2 areas highlighted in the photo. I can't see any obvious broken/loose tiles but the leak is a little below and to the side of a velux window. So how do I go about identifying where exactly it's coming through and what to do to fix it? To say this is a bit annoying is an understatement as the roof is getting replaced when we do the loft conversion so if I can avoid expensive repairs that will only be getting ripped out a few months later I'd like to hear about how to do it! Cheers
  8. Linto

    Lighting design

    Ohh that software looks good to play around with, I think I may lose a few nights figuring it out much to swmbo's annoyance!
  9. Linto

    Lighting design

    So I'm at the stage where I need to start considering lighting for the new rooms. I am thinking of something similar to this LED profile with LED RGB plus white tape inside with a dimmable driver and suitable control (not sure about the control it seems like simple light switches wont be ideal but anything beyond this seems complicated and going towards full home automation which I want to avoid having being burnt in the past) They way I see it I'll have the profiles on both sides just below the flat element of the ceiling shining up on to it. But I'm not sure if this will be too much light, not enough, the right kind etc. It all seems like a mine field so any helpful tips, guidance, thoughts would be appreciated. Both of the rooms are to be bedrooms and will have other more specific lighting by the bedside. One room will be 6m long and the other 4m and I'm thinking of having the LEDs running the full length of the rooms on both sides of the ceiling. The roof construction is full fill mineral wool between the rafters then insulated plasterboard over this. There is a void above the flat part of the ceiling which is where I was planning on running the wires and drivers for the LEDs. I've attached a very basic drawing showing what I mean.
  10. Cheers guys, going to look a bit further afield to get a few more quotes. Problem is the builders I'll be approaching will be over an hour's travelling time away, any advice on how to get them to consider even looking at the job when most seem reluctant to travel?
  11. Cheers for the advice guys. R_sole I know what you mean, he's ok with the warm roof in the living area but doesn't see the point in doing the warm roof for the eaves. Gav_p I wish I had that option, this the short list from approaching about 15. ZacP I'm leaning your way as I think a positive working relationship is potentially more important even if it means extra oversight. Decisions, decisions. Thanks for helping me get my thinking in order guys
  12. So, having finally managed to get some quotes from builders for my loft conversion I've got to decide between them. 1st builder is highly rated but seems quite skeptical of some of the design choices (too much insulation, doesn't like warm roofs, amongst other things) he's quite old school and seemingly set in his ways. I can see me butting heads with him about some details but getting a good result by the end. 2nd builder not as good a reputation (some good to middling feedback from past customers) he seems keen and wants to learn. But the feedback has me thinking that to get the end result we want will require a bit more monitoring/ guidance. He seems like somebody I can work with. Price wise there is very little between them so I guess the question is should I go with old, set in his ways but knowledgeable or keen but needs more monitoring and input from me?
  13. It has a side window which is where the width loss will be, otherwise you're right I'd have a fair bit of dieting to do!
  14. To accommodate the planned ewi I need to make the current front door opening smaller by about 180mm on each side. What is the best way to do this? I was thinking of a simple stud wall made with 4x2 and clad with cement board externally, some mineral insulation and plaster board internal. I'd attach the stud wall to the existing masonary with frame fixings. Will this be robust enough to deal with a front doors traffic and door banging? Will I need to use treated timber or just normal? Is this the best way to achieve this or is there a better one? Cheers
  15. Unfortunately we need to remove the trusses as the old roof will need to be removed to build the new one.