Carrerahill

Quite a few options for you - BC will have their say. On the garage I dug the founds deeper and made some basic shuttering so the found took a step and ran under the soil pipe, then stepped back up on the other side then lintels over the top, to correct the height of the lintel to match the blocks either side we made it up with engineering bricks on top of the lintel (single course) so the 150mm lintel + commons = 1 block. We did a solid row of lintels and grouted over the lot so insets and mice etc. couldn't climb up into the wall. We filled the void with gravel - it was low enough that it had no impact on the floor slab. Google image search shows about 100 ways people have done it. I also like the box it out and pour founds over it method, but you will need to make sure BC are happy there is plenty concrete and probably a bit of rebar.

I understand roller shutters are fairly secure - if you damage a lath it will deform and pull out of those above and below it, so you end up having to work away at multiple laths to gain entry, sectional are bigger pieces and can more easily be broken as once you damage a section you have compromised a larger section. You can also get high security roller shutters which are basically just put together with heavier laths. Knowing what I know now I would probably buy all the parts and assemble my own roller door - I can weld which helps to fabricate the channels but there is nothing to them and the rooler door places sell all the bits you need fairly inexpensively.

That looks about reasonable, not cheap, but not unfair I don't think - depends how well he does the job right enough, everything properly clipped and terminated etc. that is what can consume time and drive costs up when it costs you £20 just to terminate some SWA properly. The outbuilding and sockets in the caravan seem fine. Most of the cost for the supply to the caravan is going to be the SWA itself at about £5.50 per meter - £192.50. So then say another £100 for the other bits and clips and glands and what not. Call it £300.00 in materials then he is on £278.00 for his work, I assume there is a fair bit of effort in the 35m run? Then he is a couple of hours terminating the cables, installing the board, testing etc. I would think about doing the SWA run myself if that would save money - but you must agree it with him or he may be a pain about it and refuse to sign off a cable run he has not done. Is it in a trench? Also, is the caravan supply for temporary use while you build or is the caravan a permanent install now?

I don't think you should rule out block, I have just done my TF for my extension and to be honest, it would have been cheaper to do it in block knowing what my brickie charges and the material cost - I did mine in TF as it let me do it myself (I can lay block but not fast and if it is not perfect I get annoyed and pull it down) - I can carry on inside and the block will go up mid June. Remember with TF you have your sticks in various sizes and sistered up for cripples and lintels and things so you burn through lots of timber, then it's fully sheeted in OSB then you have membrane, then your timber firestops/door-window aperture surrounds, then you have the time it takes to build the TF and the materials to build it (1000's of nails) then rolls of DPC for sill plates and all sorts - tie downs, TF tie's, you name it. For block you are about £20 square meter. That's about £10 in materials (block, sand, cement) and a £1 a block laid.

It depends on how good the QS is and how well they keep their library of information up to date but also who they are reporting to and what their liability would be. When our firm QS things we use a library of costs that are kept up to date monthly. The different engineering disciplines will also feed into the QS library when manufacturer quotes are requested for budgeting information, sometimes the QS will even just get quotes for things that may not be simple to QS particularly a specialist system where no engineer or the QS has any experience. There are lots of lazy QS's out there who will just go "ah call it £20 a point or £50 per m" and don't check real life data. I have QSed a couple of builds for myself using the QS library and I came within about 1% which impressed me! QSing should be bloody accurate, it is their job after all, think of it as an engineering discipline, if electrical or structural stuff was not done properly there could be serious issues, QS's work must be accurate or they are no good in my eyes, like a bad engineer frankly. However, like your comment about overegging, this is also true, but it is also true for structural engineers etc. it's a safety margin. When internal QSing goes on it is accurate, as soon as it is put out to a client it can often increase as a cover - but it depends on the scope of work set out by the client. If there is a chance of the client coming back to complain or start blaming people then protection is built in, prices do change, but the client can ask to see how the prices were calculated and if they disagree one way or another they can alter unit costs which will update the cost - if however the client is looking for an accurate cost and contractually there is no chance of the QS getting it in the neck then they will supply this but the scope of work document will highlight the type of agreement and it must be understood and signed by all parties entering into the contract. A QS ought to have local knowledge to within 100miles of the project location as prices vary across the nation and also should take into consideration market and political fluctuations that may impact imports. If you were a painter and you reckon the job would take about 5 litres of paint - would you quote for 5 litres or 6? I know what I would quote.

Terrible. From what I can see the tiling looks to be the best thing. The waste pipe behind the floor covering and the little sliver of flooring is bad bad bad - looks like the ceiling is not flat - for the sake of a ripped down batten the ceiling could have been over-boarded level, the tile pieces get bigger over towards the right and would do my head in. Plasterboard is a bit sparse on screws. Floor to tile mating is messy looking with little care for a good intersection of materials. There is clearly a bad case of don'tgiveafeckitis here. I am not sure how many trades were involved but really it looks like there was no schedule or it was compromised and ended up in the wrong order, plumbing/electrical first fix, then framing and boarding, possibly a bit more first fix to core for lighting and vents in ceiling, then paint the ceiling, then install vents and lighting then a careful program between flooring contractor and tiler to work out best way round depending on various details. Then plumber and electric second fix - then someone ought to take responsibility for pulling it all together making sure everything is neat and properly cleaned up. I would complain to whoever it is that is paying out and have them withhold funds.

Yes, good call. Another thing is their availability. If they are eager to get started or text/email/call to say they can start soon then that often rings alarm bells, are they not busy? Even a excuse like a cancelled job will make me wonder, did they only have 1 other job in the queue. I had a guy who kept texting me saying he had availability this week, or he could do it now and I went right off him - as much as it is a pain, the guys who are difficult to get hold of, take days to show up and then cannot start for weeks/months are usually the best.

Everyone says this now and it is rubbish most of the time. Cement used in the UK is made in the UK from UK sourced limestone, clay and mudstone, brick, tiles and block all made in UK from this cement, place is awash with sand and stone quarry's, timber is mainly UK sourced and Scandinavian which so far has been impacted little from Brexit. Fuel costs are the main variable in construction materials, timber another bulky items being worst. Timber is actually very reasonable form source, if you live near a mill do a direct deal and it can be about 1/3 the price - once you start with the wholesalers then each stick that moves by truck gains 10-18% in cost for fuel. Brexit has not actually changed any tariffs or import duties "yet". It has had an impact on certain UK manufacturing for UK supply in that people are sticking to British suppliers more so if post-Brexit things go bad then they are already using UK suppliers - different if non-UK owned business or supplies are mainly for export. I have also been told in manufacturing that UK plastic output has increased, costs have gone down and this impacts British made plastic items from light fittings to uPVC windows. Someone recently nearly doubled supply costs on me and blamed Brexit, when I pointed out their entire supply chain was UK based and that I felt they were just being greedy and that I was not prepared to be lied to and ripped off they soon started to offer me ways to reduce costs. I told them they had shown their true colours and I was off elsewhere, the MD of the firm called and said he would honour the original quote (within about 5 hours of first email) - funny as I was told that the costs were now double and they could not possibly supply me for the same price... I said no thanks. Just contractors jumping on an excuse I think and I call people out on this if they try it, they often panic.

Has a single main contractor given you a price for the total build? If so you should almost certainly be able to save a lot of money if you A, approach some others for prices, B hire a PM or PM yourself if you can and have time and then contract in trades as you need. C simply remove large areas from the main contractors scope like painting, full internal fit out (do living area, kitchen, WC and bedroom(s) then leave the rest and do as money permits. You need to look at your costs and work out how it has been costed, most contractors will simply look at it and work out a cost based on size and construction type, so far I have saved 10k's and this was all done through QSing the whole job myself and getting all the trades to quote me individually and then work out and detail things meticulously.

It depends on how the walls are shared, how the roof is shared etc. If it is integral in as much as there is a connecting door to the house, but it is essentially a building just attached to the house with a single or couple of shared walls and it's own roof then I think it could be done later, if however it shares a roof or is under a second story etc. then I cannot see how you would do it. Are there any services or anything that go anywhere near the garage that will end up within the garage space? Do you have a drawing of the proposed? Could you not put the garage up in block etc. but don't have the floor poured at this stage, no doors or electrics, maybe just the basic roof frame if connected to the house or even just leave it without roof for now then all you are doing is building the shell ready for it to be completed later, that may save you some money.

I'd say get yourself some boxes of 6x40mm, 6x60's, 8x80's, those are good common sizes for most stuff. 8x120mm's are good size to have too, they will make quick work of fastening a 2x4 or similar down. I bought about 1000 of those sizes last month just as general stock, all Fischer stuff. Cost about £30. I must admit I like Fischer resin anchor and studs... but when it comes to back boxes, maybe overkill!

What about a variation? An option "3"! Run them all into a single manhole on the main soil pipe (I assume it is not a sewer but indeed your system?).

Totally agree Peter. Generally it removed need for a qualified electrician. It also depends on the categorisation of the appliance, it may fall into the category that must be supplied with a pre-fitted plug. I personally think it ought not to need a plug, however, the manufacturer may aim this as a domestic appliance (i.e. it may state it is not suitable for commercial use) therefore it must make domestic provisions. If they didn't put a plug on it then an argument could be made they are claiming it is commercial... it's one of these ones. Part ii - Fitted plug provisions 7 Part II introduces a new requirement that most domestic electrical appliances which operate at a voltage of not less than 200 volts must be supplied fitted with a correctly fused and approved standard plug. As an alternative to fitting a standard plug an appliance may be fitted with a non-UK plug provided that an approved conversion plug is fitted. 8 For the purposes of these Regulations an appliance ordinarily intended for domestic use is taken to mean one that is intended for private use at home. 9 Responsibility for fitting a standard plug or converter plug will fall to the first supplier of the appliance in the UK. 10 The "fitted plug" provisions will not apply to those appliances that are listed at the appendix. Right my windows have just arrived I am going to look at them!

If the supply is protected then no you do not need to protect it again locally the whole shebang will be protected. Also, if it was me, I would not spec a socket but a fused spur, remove the plug from the cable and hard-wire it in. For many reasons this is better, however, I will accept your situation may be more suited to having it plugged, but on something like a poo-bubbler, I cannot see why, it's not like you are going to unplug it, shift it a bit, pick up that pound coin you dropped, slide it back and plug it in again. It also removes the possibility of someone unplugging it and plugging in a lawnmower or something.

800Lm will not give you much light at all. I have run you a quick calc using an 800mm batten. Results show an avg. of 60Lux - to put that into perspective CIBSE would recommend a WC is lit to a minimum of 100lux!! If it was me I would want at least 200lux average in this space, I would say about 2500 Lumens is what you need.

Hang on a minute, am I missing something here, maybe... but if it was me, I would screw a form to the front and side of the reveal just over 3/4 of the way up the "mess", batten it up with 2x4 or something, you could clamp it etc. then pour in concrete. Leave the forms for 24 hours, remove and then you could fill the remaining bit by packing in concrete or use some commons. I am sure there are reasons, but I would prefer to see this more permanent that bits of OSB and board.

Why do they need the final payment 2 weeks before? Presumably at this stage they have got all the materials for your order and started your order, so it is not like the second payment is to buy materials so why this cannot be prior to delivery I do not know - I would say not a chance, I'd probably walk away. Also, if they say they will give you a certificate saying you own them then that suggests they have been made... yet it's 2 weeks before delivery so what do they need another 2 weeks for, well I deduce that means that actually they are still not finished... so there is nothing for you to own so how could they legally give you a certificate of ownership if no asset exists?

My windows are on order, have been for weeks and I have not paid a penny. Arrangement is full payment on collection or just before delivery. If you are worried then talk to them.

Approved (Council stamped) BC drawing simply says: Limit of Infiltration: To satisfy Section 6 of the Scottish building regulations 2014 edition the building to be constructed in accordance with the provisions of BRE Report 265:1994. Infiltration of air into the building must be limited as far as reasonably practicable by: Sealing dry lining junctions between walls, ceilings and floors and at window, door and roof access hatches. So essentially there is nothing I need to adhere to that standard room finishing won't seal - i.e. plaster skim etc. However, I do intend on trying to improve on this somewhat.

Hi guys, BC plans show foil faced PB to form the vapour control but I am thinking of going for a full vapour barrier internally as I feel I can get a better seal and tape all the laps with foil tape and around penetrations whereas once you cut the PB that's it gone. I know the area for sockets etc. equates to very little but I just see a full taped membrane being far better. However, the Quinnthem foil faced PIR going between the studs is already a vapour barrier, so another option is 100mm foil tape and tape the insulation into the studs, so 25mm lap of tape onto the insulation, 25mm out on the stud side that forms the service void, then 50mm over the face of the stud, then use another piece of 100mm tape to seal the other side, result is fully sealed in PIR - I could then use foil faced PB too. So can those of you who have done this give me their thoughts and experiences please. Will I just get a roll of Protect VC foil and be done with it, or do I go down the taped PIR route?

First of all, keep your architect for now, it sounds like you need him A, for his knowledge and B, because he will have all your CAD drawings, and unless you have these in dwg format and and a copy of ACAD and can work ACAD software who is going to draw it all up for you? You could get a draughtsman to look at it or an architectural technician but to be honest I would just keep your architect for his professional services here and he may not give you the ACAD drawings in DWG format anyway. People are often all to quick to dump the architects and designers and consultant engineers then something ends up badly detailed or doesn't coordinate onsite and it ends up costing you more than the fee of the service to put it right. As for planning, I think your proposals may be beyond a variation, you may need to resubmit. I would speak to the architect or your appointed planning officer and ask them. On your comment re. trades who would lay floors, I am confused, as to what type of floor you mean, the sub-floor? the concrete slab? the finished floor? Brickies put up walls, plasterers plaster and render walls. Depending on what you need you either need concrete workers, joiners or a flooring contractor for the floor. Again not knowing what what you mean I cannot comment on hos arduous it is, but if Chris has bad knee's I would suggest he stays clear of any flooring actives as much of it involves being on your knee's! What type of build are you putting up, block, ICF, timber frame etc. etc.

Engineers are the ones in white shirts and ties. He will advise, design, check and specify for you and can provide for BC reasons a design or calcs or report confirming suitability of your chosen site.

If you want to use your solicitor to submit the plans for your legal reasons then fine, but don't let PP know they are from a solicitor, my advise would be for you to have plans drawn up, have them signed by yourself, witnesses, your solicitor and their dog so that those plans are now legally "the plans" then you have your architect or engineering consultants etc. submit those plans. This way it just looks like a normal set of drawings from a normal channel - remove the whiff of solicitor from the whole situation.

On this point. What you need is to QS your job. You may even get a QS to do this for a reasonable fee - but it is not difficult to do yourself - just takes time and a fair bit of knowledge of all the materials and all the bits that go into a build to make it happen - which is why sometimes if your not in the industry it can be difficult. I would set up a tender cover document, a standard document with your details on it, and then add it as a cover document to your window schedule or electrical schedule, so people receive it, they will immediately treat you with a bit more respect and they will tend to offer better quality written quotations - this is how the building industry works. It is common for designers and engineers and architects to submit tender packages to suppliers and manufacturers to gauge costs on builds and to do their budgeting due diligence, this can even be before a client has even gone for planning but we all need to keep an eye on costs, so suppliers are used to receiving this sort of thing and it will often result in your being contacted by account managers who will look after you and are often very helpful. This will help you to control all your costs. As for your foundations, I can see your issue, you want to pick the best spot on the land to have an easier ride with the foundations, makes sense, what you need to do is try and find out what you are standing on to ascertain the best building ground, consider also water run off and utility routes etc. A geotechnical survey might be worth the money - have a look on the borehole database and see if there are any boreholes near you - they could help you to understand your ground.

Do you have you planning officers name? Can you meet with them at their office?