Carrerahill

After my hardcore looked pretty level with about 1000 passes with a compactor I think it had some bits that were probably up to 30mm lower in areas. Concrete cares not, you may end up with an extra barrow of concrete going in but it will sure take care of any undulations - no need to worry. I also intentionally left the sides lower so the slab edges were thicker. Just make sure your forms are bang on and everything just literally falls into place!

Just found this: Construction Service Rate of VAT Further Information Construction of new qualifying dwellings and communal residential buildings, and certain new buildings used by charities. 0% Section 3 Conversion for a housing association of a non-residential building into a qualifying dwelling or communal residential building. 0% Section 6 Conversion (other than for housing associations) of a non-residential building into a qualifying dwelling or communal residential building and conversions of residential buildings to a different residential use. 5% Section 7 Renovation or alteration of empty residential premises. 5% Section 8 Approved alterations to listed dwellings and communal residential buildings, and certain listed buildings used by charities (rate shown with effect from 1 October 2012) 20% Section 9 Alterations to suit the condition of people with disabilities. 0% Notice 701/7 VAT reliefs for disabled people Installation of energy saving materials; and grant funded heating system measures and qualifying security goods. 5% Notice 708/6 Energy-saving materials Development of residential caravan parks. 0% Section 20 First time gas and electricity connections 0% Notice 701/19 Fuel and power Installation of mobility aids for the elderly for use in domestic accommodation 5% Reduced-rate VAT on mobility aids for older people Home improvements on domestic property situated in the Isle of Man 5% Isle of Man VAT Notice

Yep - binmen have their own businesses too - issuing bins they can find to people and emptying them 2 or 3 times a week for £5 a go. When we got our first commercial property I was totally unaware how it all worked. We didn't pay rates as it was small business exempt and the only thing we paid for was water and sewage, there was a big black council bin outside in our parking area and we just put rubbish in it. It got collected 3 times a week for about 3 years until we were in conversation with another business who said we should move away from the council as they had just got a great deal with Biffa. I sort of looked at them perplexed and said I would look into it. It then dawned on me that we didn't have a waste collection contract at all and as we were thinking of it like council tax for a house it didn't even cross my mind that it was a paid for service in the commercial world. Binmen just saw the bin, assumed it was paid for and emptied it!

Yeah, I am keen to learn where VAT ought not to have been charged! I am assuming it was on services rather than materials as surely all materials are 20% VAT?

Try some Bar Keepers Friend or any cream cleaner or paint cutting compound if you happen to have any and give it a good scrub!

Do you have a damp issue and does it feel solid, if solid and no damp leave it alone. Are you sure it is mud between them? Could it be damp lime?

I'd get a 3/4 male Tee and a 3/4 coupler/socket, that lets you basically screw a T onto the underside of the cistern, then screw your 3/4 flexi onto it, then get a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer (I am not sure it's 5/8, 1/2 would be more common). https://www.toolstation.com/brass-female-socket/p43908 https://plumbing4home.com/brass-t-shape-water-fuel-pipe-male-tee-adapter-connector-34-inch-thread/ https://www.malcleanse.co.uk/34-bsp-f-x-12-m-brass-reducing-nipple-176921-p-7133.html

You could daisy chain back out of the existing light if that route was acceptable - saves ugly JB's. You may need to knock out or drill for a new gland to do it neatly, most lights come with suitable holes/knock-outs for this. As for routing cable, the cable could be buried in your render but make sure it stays within prescribed acceptable routes, i.e. straight between the two lights etc. I don't think I would use SWA to be honest, unless the cable is going to be at risk from mechanical damage. Only you can answer the question on your ability to fit them, are you competent? From the questions asked I guess your not, with all due respect, particularly electrical minded. If you feel you can wire them up properly then go for it. As for notifiable or part P... if you can do a suitable job just do it! As you are adding to an external circuit I would say yes it is.

Sorry, but it is yourself who is incorrect - you do not need a license for an air rifle in England/Wales (under 12ft lbs).

Only in Scotland.

Plenty of options given to you above, my input: If fitting a new joist is not possible - i.e. ceiling attached beneath etc. then you need to make do and improve what is there. I make up OSB or plywood laminate joists in these situations. Glue some 18mm ply in 2400mm strips along the joist, then sister it up with another one, glue it all, drill and coachbolt it all together. Solid as a rock and stronger than timber only. I have also used flitch beams. I get steel laser or water jet cut from a local place and they are not expensive. Even a 3mm mild steel plate sandwiched in between two timbers and coach bolted is seriously strong - 5mm is best, however it really depends on dead-load and expected live loads.

Perhaps... but in all honesty it is not something really worth doing as I click on an icon, up comes a list by code or by standard name, click on that then I am in.

Yeah, we used to have that, I think my 17th edition PDF is watermarked with my name. I can't remember the reason but the IT guy thought this was better as we got access to some thing we can use on our phones/tablets etc. but none of us use it. When it comes to renewal I will actually bother to sit down with him and see our options are later this year.

Does someone know how to do calcs? My local merchant stocks Quinn Therm - I'd like to see what I need to use of their products to get the same value.

No, there is no min value spec'ed just the makeup. I shall have a look at this now then - thanks.

I have just tonight managed to get hold of a datasheet for the old FR5000 range, the FR5150 (I think was the code for 150mm stuff) was: 0.024 W/mK 1.10 m^2 K/W 0.14 W/m^2K

We don't get a digital copy, it's all via a portal thing - it's fairly seamless but you must be connected to the internet for it to work. Once in you can view the full doc from a sort of digital menu - you cannot select or copy text from it - which is a pig when you want to quote reg's directly into reports or specs. We ahem, did think, yes just think, about trying to make offline digital copies so that we could have the most commonly used stuff at our fingertips but you need to basically screenshot each page, save as a PDF then use a character recognition program to convert to usable text document you can copy and paste from. It took IT about 3 hours to make us up a 10 page PDF with some electrical and fire reg stuff which we use a lot! We decided our attempts were futile. The thing is, it is quite clear in our subscription that we may publish excerpts not exceeding something like 2 full consecutive sections and a max of 4 in a single report, document or set of documents constituting a package of information for the uses of reference, specification, arbitration etc. So I am within my subscription contract rights to for example copy the whole of section 411 (protection against shock) into a report on the suitability of a structure's grounding or something equally relevant. If I need to reference anything I just work from a paper copy about 98% of the time, I keep a paper copy of BS7176 and BS5839 in my laptop bag.

I like it!

Well... Not for the regs no, it is totally ridiculous that British regulatory material isn't free - if they want to write regs and have people adhere to them they ought to be available to all F.O.C. on a government website. I spend £1000's a year on subscriptions to places such as BSOL/BSI for access to British Sandards docs etc. and have paper copies in our office. I don't know the source of the version I pasted above because I had it saved into a text file from a post from DIYnot when someone asked for details on cable routes. It's very handy to have those sections at the ready for the very situation that arose above. Interestingly, British Law is available to all on a government site.

Anyone who is willing to show me! So yes, you if you could! I want a fairly simple system just to improve the air quality in our house and let us ventilate year round without needing windows open.

I'd mill that in aluminium. Not difficult, a small independent machine shop or a hobbiest with a mill would do that for a few beer tokens and the price of the ali. It would look good anodised but painted would work.

I'd like to see what you have bought and are installing - I want to put a system into our extension (which will have the kitchen) and connect in some of the downstairs rooms.

Something like this, but you could pour it in concrete and form it yourself. It is a simple channel drain - at the end of it if it won't naturally continue to run away then fit a gully and pipe it to where it needs to go. I was going to lay channel drains and all sorts for my garage but I thought about it and decided that it will likely fill with stones from the drive and end up full of sawdust and rust from my projects I do in the garage. I also liked the idea of being able to roll the car tyre (rolling chassis of project cars) into it and it would stay put. I am going to pour mine as I like making concrete, any excuse to get the mixer out and make a batch of concrete and I am there!

I'd probably lift the channel, cut around a 400mm strip along the whole front and put in 100mm concrete, then form a gully into it (I use a piece of gutter and slide it along) you then have a surface water run off that can be easily swept and cleaned over and a few stones won't block it. Alternatively lift the channel and fit a proper big commercial channel and run it to a proper drain - the drain it eventually runs into, is that public highway or in someone elses property? What sort of sewage system are you on? Septic or mains? If mains you could tie into that if there was a drain line handy - I would make sure to put in at the very least a trap but better a sump as it looks like that road will be prone to muck and gravel and what no wanting to block your drains.

If you were going to that qty I would spec up an enclosure with DIN rail(s) and use Din rail mount terminals to make a really neat and easily inspected and tested panel. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-fused-din-rail-terminals/5076535/