crispy_wafer

It's cemfloor so this one is cement based. It looks good, but the proof is when you need to start the finish flooring, I would think there is likely to be the odd high spot/low spot but nothing that cannot be dealt with adhoc. I'm going to be bonding engineered wood to it, so just a little bit more forgiving than karndean - which I would think needs billiard table smooth. I've given myself 25 - 30mm to the underside of the front door so bags of room 🤣. All in all, it was 7 and a bit cube.

Screed is in courtesy of the mother of all screed wagons, my boy loved wading through the muck as it was being poured in, not sure if it's good practice to advertise the company or not, but if anyone needs a recommendation for a volumetric supplier in the lincoln area just ask.

I think you are going great guns here, and I for one appreciate this thread, thankyou. It's going to be so much help for me, who, probably isnt quite so brave to ask questions, advice and show my work.

Yes, true, speak to BC.

full fill with beads or full fill with mineral wool, may even cost less than PIR as well Also, get onto U-value calculator | ubakus.com and have a play

Similar floor buildup as what I've got in progress. Block and beam, 150mm of PIR, 60mm screed at the front door threshold - which is 15mm from memory. I just went with what the door manufacturer recommended, in reality I should have waited and perhaps specified a slighty larger threshold. When measured from the top of PIR to bottom of the door I have about 85mm so I've got a good 25mm for flooring depending on how flush I want the flooring to be. I've settled on recessing a mat at the door opening, and glue down bamboo flooring @ 14/15mm so should work out ok. Depending on thickness of mat I will grind out 5-10mm from the screed.

Thought I'd add some photo's now that job's just about jobbed

Personally, I don't think that would be an issue, if it all fits, and you can push/pull through without bother and it stops the pipes being scratched/scored when pulling through something abrasive then all good. maybe the quote is coming from the angle that when doing plumbing you are likely to have excess or offcuts of plumbing waste pipes to hand so that's what's used at the time as conduit.

Was too excited to get filling and pressuring that I missed one or two nuts when tightening up the manifold and pump. 🤣 Was like a scene out of one the old submarine movies spraying water everywhere whilst reaching for the off tap with one hand and the grips with the other. chalk it down to experience...

I've put it off for as long as I could really, I put the UFH down last week, pressurised it overnight. No pipe leaks, Just a slight weep at the pressure test gauge so bitten the bullet and ordered the screed in, then I can get the Staircase sorted and that will be me done spending money till next year, will give everything time to dry out (my excuse!)...

Just touching base with this, been quoted 420 per m3, supply/pump/and man, that will be about 55-60mm over 100sq m using Cemfloor mobicem.

Do you have a keyline https://www.keyline.co.uk nearby, I've used my local one for ducting, drainage and polypipe goodies. And they were really good with me, actually wanted to chat, answer questions, and provide solutions...

That compactor is even cheaper now - 199 + delivery Scheppach 6.5HP Petrol Compactor - ALDI UK

It's still on my to do list. It's up on the gable end, so going to hire a niftylift to get up there. A couple of bits of gutter that the roofers put up have slipped loose so will hit that at the same time. Was rather hoping the roofers would come back to sort the gutter, then I could drill from the inside and use their ladders to fix the cowling in place on the outside.

Insulationhub, cutpriceinsulation and secondsandco, Managed to get a couple of pallet loads from seconds, some had slightly concave edges which the mrs sawed off as I installed, only con is long lead time on delivery, and you have to manhandle it off the wagon. Insulationhub and cutprice, good prices for retailers and they offload with a dinky forklift for you.

My windows (not any of your brands, I may add..) the handles are shockingly bad and funnily/not there's a big variation of wobble/play between them all, already been replaced once and they are just the same, I'm in dialogue for a company rep to visit. The cheap **** PVC windows in the office have better handles. The ones I played with in showrooms weren't like that... QC my arse.

The rule of thumb I wanted was to work out depth of screed, I had my assumptions, but as with most things self build no prior experience. And I'm sure this post will help others in the future too. Fancied resin topped or a microcement, but budget constraints know mean my plans will need to change. My big concern would have been pouring too much screed for one type finish, then what if in 10 years we then fancied a different type of flooring, I've then got to replace the front door and threshold. Marek

A question i've been too afraid to ask. How do you work out how much screed depth is required - so when speaking to suppliers you sound like you have a clue... At present I've been guessing, and now i'm getting closer to getting it done, I dont want to have too much poured in. Buildup is block and beam floor Dpm 150mm Insulation DPC located 1 block above floor Main entrance door has been installed at the dpc level but has a 15mm upstand. At this point I've no idea what the finished floor layer will be or thickness which doesnt help. Is there a rule of thumb.

Nice, You have one unit ducted into both rooms, or two separate controllable units? I'm personally yet to make my mind up, or more likely to have the courage to say yes. Money is getting tight as it is, a 6 unit system with 2 multi splits is a bit of an uplift on the ASHP after the BUS Grant. But the ability to cool and heat areas in the home is a winner and if it can be done with the least amount of equipment, all the better for me.

Just to add my tuppenny worth, I've had two MCS accredited installers quote, one estimated an 8kW unit, another 11.2kW. the smaller unit was a Midea, the larger was a Mitsi Ecodan. No real discernable difference in costs, but will run through the calcs and see what the spreadsheet suggests.

Ducting would be standalone as far as I know, it's a larger bore and needs to be insulated, aircon recirculates, mvhr brings in outside air. I used Our Guide to Air Conditioning | Air Conditioning World as a guide to work out unit capacity and rough requirements, but am consulting local installers too. I think a max of 5 indoor units from each outside unit, but depends on the duty requirements, I think if all units need to run at full tilt and the total of the indoor units are rated higher than the outside unit then indoor units are derated to cope with demand. But in my case I cannot forsee when all units will be going at the max and requiring more than the outdoor unit can provide. Centralised control is a nice to have as well, as is energy saving features. We've probably got more informed posters than me on this site somewhere though. So take what I say with a pinch.

Sounds like you are after multi split AC heatpumps or Air to Air heatpumps as they are known in some circles, reasonable pricing... Depends on how many rooms and the amount of area you are looking to cool/heat. They can emit via radiator looking things, ceiling ducts, wall mount units, built into bulkheads, ceiling cassettes etc. Usually the same mfr's as the regular ASHP's so likes of Daikin, LG, Panasonic, Hitachi, Midea, Haier etc. Panasonic openly market heating and cooling on some of their units and have fan coil units to spread the cool air. The only issue - i think may be around the number of units you are allowed to site before getting planning involved. Something I'm looking into at the moment, it'd be nice to have a solution I can integrate now for heating/cooling whilst I'm at first fix.

Well done @LA3222 - job well done, It seems though Installers arent keen on ASHP cooling, if done right - no problems, if wrong, then condensation risk, and mould. A lot that I've spoken to, just aren't keen to have their business names put to a risk that may or may not happen. For what it's worth to the OP, I'm putting aircon in and will put shading in place too. The Daikin (others are available too) Heatpump Split units are pretty nice looking if wall mounting, or slim ducted units hidden in voids with diffusers located in the ceilings, or in bulkheads above doors, all accessible for future maintenance of course. I'm planning on 2 multi split systems, one for upstairs and one for down. I will use them for space heating this winter to see how we get on with it. They don't need to be jet turbines blowing force 9 gales in your faces. If it works, then I'll not bother with the ASHP, or will wait for a few years till supply and install prices come down to the same as a gas boiler. The GF UFH gear will be going in regardless, as will plumbing for FF Rads. For the cost of the AIrcon stuff at first fix, I'm going it. It may be a folly, but sod it, I'm doing it anyway.

Got some quotes coming in for 2 multi splits systems, mixture of wall mount and slimline ducted units for our build. Bedrooms, lounge, living area and kitchen, cooling and taking the edge off later in the year with a touch of heating. I'm putting the Air to Water HP on pause for now, but will install the UFH kit just in case my plan backfires and is needed at a later date, I'll be in and out of the build over winter so will be able to see if this will work for us or not. Daikin as a manufacturer look good, as does Haier, Daikin almost twice the cost though.

I've just started internally taping up my Window and door openings with Isocell Airstop flex tape which is a bit cheaper...