crispy_wafer

Do it! or if you have an external wall, get one of the wall mounts. Like Unico Air Conditioning - Air 8 HP - Heating and Cooling (saturnsales.co.uk)

Sounds/looks like a nice easy solution, thankyou.

Ok, seen them and atplas chambers, that would leave the the T & Elbow outside, are they ok to bury in Sand, or something easy to dig out at a later date if needed?

So, on this theme of There’s always someone who has done it worse and taking the, if it looks wrong approach. I cobbled together this lashup last year to get me out of a jam (please don't shout at me), threw a sheet of ply over the top and then forgot about it. Anyway this year I want to rip it out, tidy it up get the hole filled in and get on with life. It would be awesome if I could tidy this up and have it self contained in a box that I could access if needs be. The water table rises up above the pipes on occasion, so could/should I try to make it water tight? Is there an access chamber of sorts for this sort of thing and are there such things as MDPE manifolds, a little 2 port jobby would be perfect? There is a bit of extra on the far end of the MDPE pipes that could be pulled through if required. One supply is to the new build (in the brown pipe), and the other will be to the stables. The tap to the stables could go at the stable end of the pipe if needs be. Any thoughts on how to proceed to make the best of this? Thanks Marek

Just been at this, started with a Stanley knife, worked but if I wasn't diligent enough then it is quite easy to cut/slice not in a straight line and end up cutting through one of the ridges... Then I swapped over to a hacksaw blade, and used it to cut on the pull stroke, worked awesome for me, but leaves some swarf on the pipe which needs a bit of a rub, to loosen and clean up. Try both, one will work for you.

I didn't actually know about the RED stuff until today, reading through whatever I can today I like what they are trying to do, and I wouldn't mind one of their Daleks sitting outside...

I've done a couple of the more popular heat loss calc spreadsheets and they both come to about 5kW so within the 'standard' install parameter, but I will want a larger cylinder that's for certain. I guess we might find out what the brand is one day, but I'm in a situation now where I wonder if I can carry on chugging away with the plumbing and install the supply and return pipework to my UFH manifold (different locations) without actually knowing what heatpump or Heating source I may or may not install in the future.

And that's the deal, if standard install is £3k + maybe a grand or so if I wanted a bigger cylinder and few extras then I'd gladly stand back and let them get on with it. The key is, if they can get the correct standard of qualified subbie who knows what to do and how to do it to, in a new build at first fix it shouldnt be a trivial task, key is in the heat loss calcs and specifying of the unit. I would like to think that a company like Octopus would be a better proposition than the shiny suited renewables salesmen, who now also want to start charging 350-400 for a heat loss calc.

I've applied, purely as a punt to see what they can offer, and at what price. However no installers in my area until the summer as they are looking to take on subbies.

I'm trying to plan a media wall at the moment, unfortunately I'm about 9 months away from buying a tv to fit in it. There's some lovely crisp/clean looking ideas on google images, without the obligatory fire undeneath (not a fan tbh). Openings either side for shelves if you want, with some LED strip lights for a bit of mood lighting etc etc. Makes a nice feature I think.

Snap!

That's fine, dont worry about photos. Spark at work threw a suggestion to use same rating but lower class fuse. So it would blow quicker than the DNO's... It'll be good to know for sure, and when all said and done I'll post my findings and doings.

Just taking what my spark said, and nick seemed to reiterate again earlier. that if I want to have the CU > 3m away, my tails need protecting with a lower rated fuse. Like all of us, just trying to get my head around lots of things, trying to cut through the grey stuff to the yes and no's.

They wont upgrade the fuses for me, I did ask and then gave it the why not - stamp foot - bottom lip job but they were adamant. I bet there is loads of properties down my way with 100A fuses, just like my bungalow was before they moved the supply and nicked the fuse. Anyway, I appreciate your post and picture @Thorfun as that answers my question, in that I can have the 3ph installed to the head, and then continue to stay on 1ph in the house, until such time I can get a meter installed, then re evaluate. So, whilst thinking out loud on the internet. What's the next fuse size down to de rate the supply, and could I run the living space on it. Ring mains, lighting, Electric oven/hob, 9kW ASHP, 8kW A2A HP, Immersion.

£125 So, beans on toast for me, and the cat can raid the neighbours bins for a week 🤣

Any pitfalls in taking the option of having the 3 phase installed? Or is this a case of, if you have to ask then you don't need it...

Thanks. You guy's a more experienced in this than I, so I'm trying to piece it all together, maybe I got confused. so Normally it'd be DNO 80A----Meter---(<3m)----Consumer unit But I want DNO 80A---Meter---MySwitchFuse-(>3m)--Consumer unit. Can MySwitchFuse be the same rating as the DNO's then? I got the impression from a spark it needed to be less. Loads, Usual house stuff, Electric oven/hob, 9kW ASHP, 8kW A2A HP, Stables lighting and power, Garage Lighting and power, planning Car charger or 2.

I looked in the meter box and the cover says 80A on it, they then visited me to confirm.

Back story, Old bungalow had electric supply with 100A fuse in meter cupboard, I requested supply to be moved to the new build, meter box installed at a point that would allow easy access in future. I noted that I could install a switched fuse thingy and run my tails to the other side of the build for my CU approx 15m in total. So I was planning on an 80A switch to the plant room and CU. Last Week I've since discovered when WPD moved the supply they installed 80A fuses on the 3ph board thingy (only using single phase at the mo), Surely I don't really want to be stepping down from 80A just to get the tails to where I'd planned the CU... I've spoken to National grid/WPD to see if they'd upgrade the 80A fuse to 100A for me, they came out to have a look but cant. They can however do a few tweaks and unlock the 3ph for me for a few ££'s So, I think I'm deep in the do do here, and not sure what I can do. Less than 3m from the meter box leaves the consumer unit in the Kitchen, or a downstairs bedroom, and at 1.4m off the floor will look cack. I am a bit stuck for idea's, so is there way I can get the tails to the CU safely, and within regs. Or am I stuck trying to hide a CU in a bedroom or kitchen. Probably even worse if we have a 3ph unit put in, the ones at work are like cupboards!

Reckon you've probably got enough manual work to do, get a volumetric mixer in and have a cuppa whilst they mix and pour, then just pay for what you use.

As my receeding hairline has found out, unless designing something in from the start, with the person who is doing your drawings, then the odd compromise, or change from the normal lines of thinking is absolutely needed to make your dreams a reality.

Here she is in all her glory... Still in progress, so a bit of connecting and tidying up to do, but if it gives others a bit of inspiration like photos on this site have for me then all good.

hole saw. try to remember where the ducting drops so you don't fix skirting there. I was going to do similar, but I built in a cupboard and framed a section of it off for dropping ducting between floors and other stuff.

Hi, A couple of simple questions, When using fittings like 90 degree elbows, or couplings is it worthwhile using a blob or two of sealant as well as the rubber sealing rings? Also, would it be good practice to put a wrap of duct tape around the joints? And finally is it worth firing the unit up after connecting all the ductwork up just to do a ducting leak check? thx.

Ducted units a possibility with vents into rooms from above, because the fan coil units are suspended from rafters, the condensate pipes will run downwards to a good drain location