crispy_wafer

For ducting we used rigid 110mm underground drainage pipe as the duct, 28mm (i think) armorflex insulation around 25mm mpde pipe. No bends as it was a straight run, I've got an existing water supply though to the bungalow on site which is going to be demolished, so will be teeing off that when the time comes. I'm just gonna do what most do round this way, and just crack on with, the water supplier will be non the wiser.

My noob question of the day to those with more experience than I. Thinking about the plumbing and concealing of the pipes. Planning on having plaster over the block work rather than boarding. Most of my plumbing will be vertical up to the floor void, horizontal to where it needs to go and then dropped to location. How best to conceal the pipework on the drops? What's the go to method? I'm assuming chase the wall a bit and recess, clip and plaster? I'd like to avoid boxing wherever possible...

Unburnt fuel in the morning, I'd open the bottom vent a touch more. Like said above, with Solid fuel air from the bottom will help with combustion. With our Dunsley we tend to turn the vent down to 3 or 4... But each stove is different and have their own characteristics in terms of burn rate. What are you burning? Is it solid like anthracite or an ovoid type. We always had an issue with solid anth, it burns when fresh but requires fully open vents later on and even then it leaves lots of clinkers behind, I had to burn it with a log or two to get the most out of it. Also check around you may have pipe stats somewhere that control the CH pump operation, I'm no heating engineer, but i'd expect you'd have one to set the pump going when water reaches the desired temp, and one which shuts the pump off when the water temp drops below a certain temp.

Hi All, Trying to get me head around the detail for insulating dormer window cheeks. Construction build up is (from out to in) OSB then a 5*2 frame. I'll be using kooltherm boards, Should I treat this like other roof detail and leave a gap between the insulation and the OSB board, or should I fit the insulation tight up to the board seal it in and tape over, I'll be insulating the inside too. Many thanks. Marek

I've had quotes ranging from 650 to 900 over about 50m2 installed, I'm finding anything Aluclad timber is at the top end of the pricing.

Had a delivery of 30 sheets of 120mm this week from sec&co, to cut and fit between rafters, was concerned about their delivery as they make a big thing of double decker sized wagons... Anyway all went well, we handballed the insulation off the lorry, the stuff for the most part is good, 5 or 6 sheets are slightly concave on the edges, but my festool will sort that out. As a test run, all positive, so will be ordering more soon, and they seem to be back to adding stuff to their inventory again.

Ecowin?

Starting to lose the will with windows. Just blowing off a bit of steam thread. All 3g Local supplier 29k for Smart systems Alitherm 600 plus Curtain walling, and doors for 29k Velfac v200e 36k for the same Idealcombi futura+ 41k and just had another from Zylefenster for 46k Had Idealcombi round for a chat, when there initial quote was 35k, turns out they'd made a mistake on installation costs to the tune of 6k... Liked the windows and the system to be honest, and at 35k was ready to sign on the dotted line, just seemed to be everything I wanted and more... Going to look at some Velfac next week I hope if time allows. Not mega impressed with published U values for Smarts Alitherm 600, I havent found any frame values however they mention values with glass so suspect the glazing is making up for the deficiancies of the frame. I guess there's a difference in window systems in that list so not exactly like for like. Anyone with experience of the above systems like to chime in with positives and negatives of their windows. Going round in circles with the decision process, money is a major driver, however I want windows that perform reasonably well, but this isnt a passive build by any means, I don't want to spend a wedge and be disappointed, they've got to look acceptable, be fitted well and more importantly last, I don't want to replacing windows in my lifetime. Looking for something that I can get and forget about, I very much doubt I'll be sat in my room thinking I'm glad I spent xxxx on brand b when brand a cost less and perform almost as well in the real world, I'll be too interested in the next project, as will Mrs CW. Chances are I could have upvc and be quite happy. With windows U values am I venturing down a rabbit hole of diminishing returns for my cash. arghhh. my head is spinning, and I'm no closed to deciding on windows that I was 6 months ago.

I actually tried to delete the cartoon plan image as that's not how we've actually built it, I used a bit of creative license in construction you could say... There are no tiles on the front of the terrace, just a flat roof with a fall into the gutter. The ground floor windows look low but we've added a course or two above the soldiers, no heights mentioned or restrictions on our plans so the added ceiling height is nice. @Stewpot Like the idea of the outer posts 'floating' with the strength and rigidity coming from the inboard end. I'll mention this to the BI when he visits and see how receptive they are to the idea. This could also work with the deck frame that I will put on the waterproof layer below @Faz Thanks, gives me confidence, if the above idea doesnt pass muster.

I've got an in roof terrace/balcony thing going into my build - no plan other than the drawing. Thought it was a nice idea, but struggling with thoughts on how to secure the frame and balustrading without puncturing the flat roof below. So far we've built up the dormer opening and prepared the flat roofing, this will be covered and topped with a floating deck frame, which is likely to be aluminium or composite. Building control will be out after roofing so I will check with them, but in the meantime thoughts are eating away at me. Now I'm not sure if I will need to secure the deck frame, if so, to what and how, whilst maintaining water tightness. Next is the question of securing the balustrading all brackets I've seen involve attaching at the base, I dont think attaching to the floating deck would be sufficient to maintain safety. So I'm thinking that securing to the masonry below the gutter would be better but am struggling to find brackets that are shaped in such a fashion to step out. Wonder if anyone on here has any thoughts, come across this issue before?

Looks nice, and practical too, however for me, i'd Install a full fat 8" liner, that way you'd be covered if you ever changed your mind. Wont cost you an awful lot more in materials either.

I dont have a lot to add, other than twinwall flue allows you to router a lot closer to combustable materials, this usually means an extra couple of inches on the O/D though - which could be worth bearing in mind if there are obstacles en-route. There are some rules regarding number of bends too. Give consideration to sweeping too.

Quick reply One window is a specialist job, no question about that, and am will absolutely pay for fitting on that, and that does require a lift etc. The rest of the windows are your run of the mill std casement upvc type affair largest being 1900*1050 down to 600*1050 - 12 windows in all, then a back door and 2 sets of french doors. Maybe I'm being a tight arse, and expecting champagne for beer money. Happy to be told to reign expectations in, that's the market rate, and actually a decent deal... Example

@JulianB that helps a lot. I see the tools are pricey, even 2nd hand, but there must be a good chance of getting most of the investment back when finished with it. I take a bit of confidence in seeing that jobbing plumbers are now starting to adopt the method.

Thx, I'll given them a schedule, will be interesting to see what comes back?

Showing my lack of knowledge in this area... Seems like I'm getting charged an arm and a leg for installation on my quotes, I reckon people see self build and start assuming 'loads a money', am I allowed to fit my own windows in a self build or does the job need certifying by an accredited installer?

@JulianB Without taking the thread off topic too much, how did you find the pressfit tool, did it do everything you wanted, any shortcomings? Did you use copper and press for the whole project or did you revert to pex for the runs between endpoints?

Just planning the underfloor ducting for the log burner, I'm thinking of doing it in plastic however at some point as it rises through the b+b floor I guess it needs to change to something non combustable. Would plastic be ok to the top of the screed, then the air feed kit from there to the stove, or would it be best to use galv steel duct from the underfloor plastic duct to the top of the screed?

Floorplanner dot com, found it very useful in being able to mock up in 2d and visualise and walkround in 3d, even lay out furniture and decor if you've got enough time...

I was up there yesterday as the joiners were hand cutting the roof, and it's gonna be a tall old ceiling. Perhaps it may be too tall. I might try to bring the ceiling height down a bit, but leave the window full height, I dont know yet, need to ponder a bit more, pick up a few ideas... And, I wish I'd have thought about adding a balcony at design so the first floor room could walk out... Maybe next time.

I think at 750 you wont have any problems - below the frost line, mine will be laying in the b+b void at ground level close to external wall. I'm not sure it will freeze down there but NHBC quidelines state adequate precautions when above 750 8.1.3 Water services and supply - NHBC Standards 2021 NHBC Standards 2021 (nhbc-standards.co.uk)

I've read somewhere before that insulation is required if within a certain distance of an external wall. So think I will get some more insulation and insulate the lot as I feed it though, then maybe squirty foam the ends of the pipe to seal it up.

I've decided to relocate our incoming water pipe to another spot in the build. Didn't particularly like what the builder had done, pipe slightly kinked as it bends up to the floor. so have decided to take the opportunity before I go any further to expose the pipe and re-lay to a better place. I've got good access still through the b+b flooring so no great issues, It's not terminated at the mains connection yet so an easy pull out. I've got access to the pipe, currently it's not ducted under the b+b floor however it has some insulation. If I duct and insulate under the floor, what kind of ducting is acceptable, and what can I use to ensure I get a nice smooth bend on the pipe when it rises up through the floor, I hazard that as I'd still need to insulate within the ducting? If left to my own devices I'd probably use some drainage pipes and a bend, is that an acceptable trick of the trade? I've got a coil of blue ducting for outside the building to the mains stop on the property. This wont accept the pipe and insulation though...

Might be a daft Q, but does anyone know if the VAT is recoverable on aggregates when used during the course of the build?

Re: Steels, Same two storey affair here. Our steel fabricators managed mine, thankfully! We had two columns bolted to the foundations, these were about first floor height, then a cross bar was bolted between the two (goal post setup), these had plates welded on top, two more steels were then lifted onto the first floor deck and man handled onto the plates and bolted down. The angular pieces were also man handled into place and bolted together, and a steel ridge beam was then bolted to the top of the gable. Hopefully this picture (not the best) gives an idea,